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New to Figure Painting

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  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Friday, November 8, 2013 11:41 AM

I prime my 54mm figures with rattle-can automotive primer from Walmart.  I've done the same with larger figures, 1/20 scale, but I can see using the airbrush on figures of that scale or larger.  I want to try using Mr Surfacer as a primer.

A holder is a good idea, and I do as was mentioned about, I drill a hole in the figure's foot and insert a piece of wire or a toothpick.  Then I stick the wire in a stand made from an old rattle can, or a blob of wax or putty.  I am thinking of making a handle with a vise for holding the piece, though, a little more elegant.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2007
Posted by mitsdude on Tuesday, November 5, 2013 12:19 AM

Thanks jgeratic that top picture is the one I have. It was only like $3.00ish at Harbor Freight while on sale plus coupon.

I've spent close to $500 on books and magazines about figure painting. There are some excellent references out there but at some point you will just have to dive in and do some hands-on painting.

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: St louis
Posted by Raualduke on Monday, October 28, 2013 11:19 PM

Just checked, amazon has it.might order one myself.

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by Wood on Monday, October 28, 2013 8:46 PM

A reference book, soft cover, The Verlinden Way Volume 5 Has a good section on figure painting. It was published in the 1980's, so it might be hard to find. If you can find it you will find good ideas on painting those figures

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Friday, October 25, 2013 1:26 AM

Yes, the method  mitsdude mentioned is as good as any.  I forgot to mention the reason I would stick a brass rod up the figure's foot is this is then ready afterwards, when all painted up, to place on an individual base, vignette or dio.

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Thursday, October 24, 2013 4:25 PM

Thanks. It looks like drilling a hole + a brass rod will work better for me.

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  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Thursday, October 24, 2013 3:48 PM

Probably universal work holder:

I've never tried it, but can see that the pin set up will get in the way of painting the very bottom of the figure. 

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Thursday, October 24, 2013 12:56 PM

Thanks for the information. Does anyone know the name of the gadget?

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    February 2007
Posted by mitsdude on Thursday, October 24, 2013 1:53 AM

I know with larger scale figures 1/8, 1/12 etc airbrushing (done correctly) can work wonders. IE smooth, gradual color transitions.

With 1/35 scale I never use an airbrush. I use a rattle can for all over painting like priming. Brushes for shading and detailing. I never really believed it but the higher quality brushes DO make a huge difference!!

As far as holding the figure Harbor freight sells a device with a handle and a vise like top with removable pins in it to adjust to different figure sizes. I forget what it is called.

Many of the guys I see in YouTube videos simply glue the figure to the top or bottom of a jar that fits comfortably in you hands and then just snap the figure off when done.

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 10:27 PM

I am considering priming figures, but up to now I usually just airbrush a base paint overall.  The base colour is determined on how the figure is constructed.  If the head is separate, I'll use a colour that represents the uniform colour, (for a camouflage uniform, go with the lightest background colour).   A desert sand paint would be used for flesh base.  Now if the head is attached the body, then the whole figure will be airbrushed with desert colour.

Continuing with the airbrush, you can get a bit more detailed by using it like it was mimicking a light source.  I found though, with this method, it is better to use a very dark colour first as your base coat.  Then use a mid shade and spray at a 90 degrees and over top.  Then lighten you main colour with white, and spray only from a top down direction - this is creating your highlights.  You will still need paint brushes to pick out details, and to refine the folds of the clothing.

Definitely want the figure mounted on something  to help hold it.  There are special gadgets out there for this, but I just drill a hole on the bottom of one foot and stick in a length of brass rod or something similar.  When it comes to drying, either clasp it in a clothespin or stand it up in a section styrofoam

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    December 2011
New to Figure Painting
Posted by Chrisk-k on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 9:02 PM

I've painted only AFV's. I have several 1/35 figures that came with kits and want to paint them. I have three questions.

1. Do you prime figures? FYI, I always prime tank kits with Tamiya or Vallejo primers.

2. Do you use only paint brushes? I have three airbrushes, but I'm not sure if they are needed because 1/35 figures are small.

3. Do you use some kind of device to hold a figure when painting it? That is, if I held a figure with my hand and paint it, I would have to keep holding it until the paint completely dries!

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

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