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Joint lines on resin

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  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley
Joint lines on resin
Posted by berny13 on Friday, March 5, 2004 10:19 AM
I just recently bought a 200 MM resin figure at a yard sale. I attatched the legs to the upper torso with thick gap filling CA. I wet sanded the joints and shot a gray primer on the figure. I could see a fine circle where the legs attatched so I filled the area in with thin down Milliput and let it cure overnight. After sanding down again, I primed with gray. I could still see where the legs attatched. It is nothing more than a circle. The area is smooth with no gaps, raised areas or imperfections. I air brushed flesh color over that area and now the circle really stands out. It looks like a fine pencil mark. I can run my fingernail over the line and feel nothing.

This is my first time working with a resin figure. When joining resin to resin, where you need a flawless joint, what is the proper way to do it? I have worked with resin cockpits where join lines are not a problem. Is it too late to salvage the figure?

Berny

 Phormer Phantom Phixer

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TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.  

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale. 

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale.  F-4 Phantom Group Build. 

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 5, 2004 4:27 PM
200mm that is about 1/9 scale if I am correct.

First of all you will need to "pin" the parts together(which I asume you did), CA glue is not advised for such a large figure(or for large gap-filling) rather use 5~10 minute epoxy.

Normally there is no problem with filling the gap with either thinned down putty or 2-part epoxy butty, only think I can imagine is that somehow the CA prevents the putty from blending nicely and thus you get the seam.

My suggestion would be to sand the resin down over the joint and re-build that section using 2-part epoxy putty, but the dried CA might give you grieve as it dries harder than the surrounding resin and thus is tough to remove(especially when hit with a kicker).

A pic as the kit looks right now might give me a better idea on how to assist you.
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: NE Georgia
Posted by Keyworth on Friday, March 5, 2004 8:08 PM
I use MagicSculp for covering seam lines and filler. Works quickly, is malleable and sands down nicely.
"There's no problem that can't be solved with a suitable application of high explosives"
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