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First time Oil Painting WIP, tips and advice much appreciated

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  • Member since
    November 2014
  • From: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posted by paips on Sunday, May 3, 2015 10:43 AM

Same as oil based, you can clean your brush in water. Works the same without the smell.

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Saturday, May 2, 2015 8:20 PM

Water based oils?? How does that work?

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    November 2014
  • From: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posted by paips on Saturday, May 2, 2015 5:25 PM

I use water based oils , they don't smell, mainly for when I'm painting animals especially horses , it gives a more realistic finish to the hide in my opinion. I shade first with acryllics then the rest in oils. I don't do the small figures though.

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by knox on Wednesday, April 15, 2015 7:04 PM

   You are a brave man painting with oils on such small figures  I am no expert but I usually block my colors with acrylics and then use oils for the shading and highlighting.  Keep up the good work and keep posting.  Are they gw figures ?            knox

  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by BLACKSMITHN on Wednesday, April 15, 2015 3:36 PM

I used to paint as a hobby using oils, and I recently picked up a couple of the Tank Art books in which the use oils for highlighting and such is much discussed. I would suggest trying something called Japan Drier, which is an oil drying agent, as it really cuts down the drying time-- use it on a scrap piece first though, just to be sure it won't harm your surface. Also, as outlined in the aforementioned books, put your oils on a piece of cardboard  and allow them to sit for 15 minutes or so before painting. This has the effect of absorbing out some or most of the linseed or other oil in the paint, giving a less glossy appearance.You can just use the cardboard as your pallet and discard it when you're done!

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Tuesday, March 17, 2015 7:19 PM
I use Daler Rowney as well, but use the oils for streaking and grime only. You will find that oils in general will take a very, very, very long time to dry.

That's why I highly suggest the Daler Rowney acrylics. The Art Advantage acrylics at Michael's are okay, but dry with a semi-gloss finish.

Daler Rowney is the good stuff for figures if you can't get Citadel paints. :)

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    April 2014
Posted by Random Extra on Monday, March 16, 2015 4:37 PM

Mike, I'm using a box of Georgian Oil by Daler Rowney that I picked up from Michaels awhile ago. I originally planned to use it on some Reaper Bones I had picked up with the intent of wet blending a whole lot of skin tones (skin being something I've had trouble with in the past) but an oversight on my part being that the Bones material inhibits oil based products from curing meant I was stuck with eternally wet paint. not very fun... I was going to load a pic of the paint tubes but i cant get it loaded on photobucket.

It's weird painting with oils, I'm used to how the acrylics behave on the brush and knowing how close I can get to each area, but it feels like my brush is constantly overloaded with paint due to it constantly being wet. you can see some primer areas I missed all over the Thane, which I hope will get covered with the first wash, and the parts where I overlapped, i couldn't take care of because of the long dry time. I also messed up on his "eyebrow" which I plan to pick out in gold, but of course the steel color wasn't dry yet so it didn't work out well.

Washes and then highlights were the order I had in mind too, so once they dry I will be washing away.

Now in apology for the wall of text, here's the bezerker. He was painted at the same time with the same colors.

and of course I couldn't leave without letting everyone see his little plastic posterior. I really hope that's glare on the back of his hand, it's way too easy to remove this paint.

-Random Extra-

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Sunday, March 15, 2015 11:49 PM
It looks like you have most of your blocking done. I'd go with a few washes and then start your mid highlights.

Oils? That's got to be tricky. Personally I block with enamels and then do all of my shading with acrylics.

What type of oils are you using?

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    April 2014
First time Oil Painting WIP, tips and advice much appreciated
Posted by Random Extra on Sunday, March 15, 2015 10:04 PM

Hi, thanks for looking.

This is the first time I've used oil paints, and I'm not entirely certain what I'm doing or how to achieve some of the awesome affects I've seen from so many others here. I look forward to hearing back from everyone, and hopefully getting some great feedback and constructive criticism.

I attempted to wet blend the cloak a few weeks ago and didn’t like how it turned out, I’m pretty sure I didn’t thin the paint enough, and well you can see how it looks.

 

So last night I figured I would just put a base coat on and once dried I would try glazing, and possibly attempt wet blending again once I’m more comfortable with the oil paints.

Here is the primed model to start with, it’s got some nice details, I’ve cleaned the mold lines, and glued it on the base, but I left the arm off, because I thought it would be easier to paint his chest without it. I plan on trying some NMM on this guy, then pick out a lot of detail in gold, because he’s kind of important. I’m going to attempt some freehand plaid or argyle on his cloak. I’m thinking it might be easier to do with acrylics, I just seem to have better control of acrylic paint, but that might change.

 

I wanted him to have a red/orange beard... ginger I guess so I mixed what turned out to be more of a blood red, but I figured it would make for a good shadow/base color. I used the same color on the second figure, but I went ahead and used it on the flesh as well to hopefully tie it all together, the second fig will have his own post in a few mins.

 

Next I used a grayish color for the metal, I just covered all of the metal that I wanted to look steel or similar, and I'm going to try to differentiate them with successive coats of different colors, hopefully this serves to tie the whole thing together. I'm a little upset, for some reason photobucket refuses to save the cropped image, it appears cropped to me but once i link it here it shows the old pic. I plan on sharing the other guy in another post later.

 

Finally I used a light brown color for well anything that’s going to be brown, belts, boots, leather, and gold stuff. I saw someone at my LFGS do it once with acrylic so I’m hoping it will be effective with oil glazing as well.

Well there it is. It looks pretty sloppy, but I think it’ll start looking better after a couple layers, and touchups. Please let me know what you think, and if you have any tips or advice. Thanks!

-Random Extra-

 

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