SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Germans in 1:25

1572 views
6 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Tuesday, March 31, 2015 9:40 PM

Well what you are doing now is looking good, and if it works then keep doing it.

That being said, i will still recommend this video below. This is the technique that I picked up and I use it for more than just skin tones.

Thinning your paints properly is the toughest part of this technique to master. Otherwise it takes time and patience. Even if you choose not to try this technique in the future it may still help you see the way you're painting a little differently.

www.youtube.com/watch

If you like the way your figs are turning out then please just disregard this post. The technique you are currently using will serve you just as well. I still use it a lot too and there is nothing wrong with that at all. Your figs are good and if you keep practicing you will be seeing even better results. So please don't think I'm trying to convince you to stop or change your style. Not in the least.

You keep painting these figs like you do and you'll be very happy indeed. :)

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by RoboClerk on Tuesday, March 31, 2015 2:42 AM

I've tried block before on a 1/16 Tamiya Rommel Figure, and that one does look like a clown to be honest. I'll post some pictures of it later. I think I still have to practice thinning some more, as I either thinn the paint to much or not enough.

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Monday, March 30, 2015 1:19 PM

Ah, I see. So you're not blocking first.

So blocking is where you paint in your solid colors. Your "base" colors such as skin tone and clothing colors. After that is when you thin your paints down a lot and then "layer" them on building up the colors as you go. They are not meant to cover like thicker paint does. You want to wash them on gradually and that's how you get those really smooth blends between shadow and highlight.

Id' say you're already doing well though. Dry brushing is just as good if you are skilled with it and it looks like you have a good grasp of it.

Your second fig looks better. Those Citadel paints are fabulous for figs and I wish I had more of them. They also blend very well with artists acrylics and that's what I primarily use for my figures.

So you're doing very well and there's not much more than just practice that you need to work on. That's it. Just keep going. :)

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by RoboClerk on Monday, March 30, 2015 12:08 AM

 so this is the next attempt. Here the face was painted using Games Workhop colors and Washes. 

  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by RoboClerk on Sunday, March 29, 2015 3:12 AM

Thank you for your feedback I really appreciate it. These are just my tryout figures as I still want to improve my skills until I can be certain not to ruin the two Tamiya 1:16 figures I still have on the shelve.

I still have problems thinning the paint properly, if I thinn it to much I find it does not cover enough, so usually I only put a drop of iso propanol in the paint.

On this guy I still need to paint the highlights via dry brushing and the uniforms needs to habe the silver bits painted. As this tooling is from 1973 I find that there are not very  many details to highlight.

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Saturday, March 28, 2015 9:13 PM

1/25? Nice.

Okay, I'm going to be honest, but I promise I mean no harm here. He needs the shadows, especially on his forehead, reduced a bit. And you should take a stab at painting in his eyes at this scale.

At this large a scale the eyes shouldn't be too hard. Very carefully paint in the whites, but don't use pure white. it will look unnatural. Instead use a very light grey or pink.

Once yo have the whites painted in use a fine tip artist's pen to "dot" the eyes. Then run a medium reddish-brown or dark-ish skin tone to define them. Turn the model upside-down and then paint in the lower eye lids.

Take your time and keep your paints THIN. If you goof up you can repaint without having to clean any old paint from the mess-up. Just go over it again until you're happy with it. Also, one last tip, draw in the eyes very slightly inward. If he ends up wall eyed he'll look really goofy lol. But if he's cross eyed it will look just as ridiculous lol. So aim for the center, but very carefully aim one slightly inward.

I will sometimes paint the eyes over 7 times until I'm happy with it. (All 1/35 so far)

If you can practice on another model first that will help. Don't start with your best figure or you will quickly be dismayed and likely give up.

The uniform looks very good and I can not see anything else worth mentioning. You've done really well on this figure. I'd be happy with all but the face myself.  :)

I hope my advice helps. If you have any questions or advice just ask. It's kinda my thing lol.

Edit;

Oh, the eyebrows! Slightly darker than the hair color should work. You could draw them on with a pen, but not everybody has black eyebrows lol. If you need a reference look in the mirror. That's what I do lol.

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    November 2014
Germans in 1:25
Posted by RoboClerk on Friday, March 27, 2015 6:07 PM

At the moment I am building Tamiya's classic Jagdpanther in 1:25. The kit came with four German figures. I am quite satisfied with the way the uniforms turned out. I hand painted them with Tamiya acrylics and and Vallejo colors. But the face looks not so great. Any tips or hints what I did wrong are apreciated.

Thanks.

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.