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Making new uniforms

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Making new uniforms
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 6:09 PM
After grinding the existing clothes off the 1/35 figures I have what is the best material to replicate clothingQuestion [?]Question [?]Question [?]

The particular figures I want do not exist (U.S. Navy in dungarees from the 1950s) so I am taking various figures, grinding and filing off the uniform they have on along with replacing some headsBig Smile [:D]

How do I put the correct clothing on themConfused [%-)] and what paint do I use to get the correct colorsEight Ball [8]


Richard
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 6:41 PM
You can use either tissue paper moisted with diluted white glue, though that's delicate to handle, relgular white paper, again moisted with diluted white glu will be a bit more resilient, lead based wine bottle style foil or build up the fabric with a two part modeling epoxy like Miliput.

As to the colors, you'll have to use your Mark I eyeballs to determine the closest blue to your prototype. I've used dark sea blue (MM) for dungarees and also Vallejo's Oxford blue as a base for faded denim fabric (Go to the Diorama discussion and look at the scarecrow in the "Brothers in Arms" thread. That's the effect I gopt with Oxford blue and some fading.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 7:35 PM
Definitely epoxy putty. You can use knife blades and the ends of old paint brushes for sculpting tools, and try using different materials to impress a texture into the putty if you want. Anything from different sand paper grits to old tee shirts or even cloth bandaids will do, though in 1/35th scale, texture isn't going to be as much of an issue. Work in small sprints, a leg or even a half a leg at a time. For baggy clothes, let the putty set for about 20 minutes before using. It will hold the rolls and shape you give it much better, and will stand up to handling a little better as well, in the event that you get careless with a tool or your fingures while manuvering the piece as you sculpt. The putty needs about two hours to fully cure, though it will be unworkable after about one hour.

As for paint, milage varies from modeler to modeler, but I prefer artist's oils and Humbrol Enamels. As ajlafleche stated in the last post, you're going to just have to eyeball the correct color. I assume you have a color source of some kind. If it was me, I would probably use Prussian blue with a touch of burnt umber maybe and tweek it from there, but that's just a guess without seeing the exact color to match.
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