Photo ectch painting?

Thanks for the heads up Greg. I would only use it on PE, i currently use my needle files for cleaning up anything i can't use my PE snips for.

Bish

And if it saves my ordinary needle files, so much the better.

Just a heads-up, Bish. The diamond grit is very fine, with Tamiya claiming it is designed to remove PE flash without 'catching'. I'm not sure how it would do on regular needle file jobs, I guess I've never tried it.

Greg

 

 

The Drifter

Ditto...that is a nice tool for PE at a nice price point. Thank you Greg.

 

 

You are most welcome. Same as I asked Bish, if you do happen to get one, please let me know what you think of it.

 

The Drifter

 

 

Bish

Greg, i have not come across that Tamiya file. Thanks for the heads up.

 

 

 

 

Ditto...that is a nice tool for PE at a nice price point. Thank you Greg.

 

 

Ye, not a bad price the ones i found. And if it saves my ordinary needle files, so much the better.

I will get one at the end of the month, and i am sure it won't be long before i am useing it.

The Drifter

Ditto...that is a nice tool for PE at a nice price point. Thank you Greg.

You are most welcome. Same as I asked Bish, if you do happen to get one, please let me know what you think of it.

Bish

Greg, i have not come across that Tamiya file. Thanks for the heads up.

 

Always paint it. That's usually a several step process. Prime it all at once in the fret. Paint the parts the final color. Cut them ot, and if needed, fold them. Touch up the folds where the paint cracked. Install.

After washing it, DO NOT wipe it dry. DAHIK!

(Don't ask how I know!)

The most important tool on the bench for me is an Optivisor.

Bish

Greg, i have not come across that Tamiya file. Thanks for the heads up.

 

My pleasure, Bish. If you get one, do let me know what you think.

If I can offer a talented modeler like you a tip, even if it's a product, that pretty much makes my day.

I wash with Vinigar then warm water.

As long as the part doesn't have glue on it yet , I bake  the paint on in the oven at 140 deg. for about 30 minute's.

Those "fancy" bending tool's are cool ..... but you can get the same result's with a pane of glass, and 2 razor blade's.

Also:  When cutting the p.e. off of it's runner, tape it down !!!!! That way it wont " fly off into space" .

Before you prime, wash the PE down in vinegar, and rinse with water; will slightly etch for better adhesion.

I got a set of jewelry pliers at Hobby Lobby for around $15...couple of nice flat nose in there, one metal and one nylon. 4 pair, scissors, tweezers included. Probably around $9 with the coupon.  Otherwise I use a couple of single edge razor blades, one to hold and one to bend, either on a piece of glass or a laminate desk top.  Can also take the nibs off with a sanding stick when holding in the flat nose pliers.

Greg, i have not come across that Tamiya file. Thanks for the heads up.

Srpuln10

I'm wondering if anyone paints over the p.e. parts. I know that the brass would make things pop but with that it really doesn't look as real so to speak. Plus I'm not that good with p.e. yet. I don't have the right tools for now. I'm working on that problem. Any thoughts on what kind of tools that would help me out before I purchase a bad product. Thanks guys.

 

     I am no expert as I only restarted modeling about 5 years ago but I recommend...

Prime Prime Prime!

     I found that without primer my fingers, my nails, my tools, and plastic edges of the model, can scratch off some paint on the brass if they come in contact in a rough manor.

Wash good.  (Can some other members add in their method for washing?)

Prime and paint while still attached on the brass sheet- when possible. (On some models, like Tanks, some PE can wait for painting of the entire model.

Sand off any nubs with that Tamiya Diamond File before attaching the Brass.

Touch-up the brass sheet attachment points and sanded area after the PE is attached to the model. 

     Note: Some PE pieces require multiple bends and this may damage the paint-at least it does for me. So, for model Ships I do prime most PE but I do not paint a final color on those major brass pieces like towers, cranes, and catapults until after they are assembled.  Others may have a better technique. I'm talkin' 1/700 scale. That's hard enough to form let alone not damage the paint.

     Exception is when I lightly sand the brass.  This seems to allow paint to stick without primer. (I don't do this on the side with etched details- if they exist.) Could be if I washed  with a better cleaner/de-greaser, I might not have to prime.  Maybe I'll try Amonia next.

     Nino

P.S. I found out the had way that brush painting of 1/700 scale brass barrels in not always the way to go. It can add too much paint and your 5 inch guns look as thick as 8inchers.

I agree with Bish, and have a couple more thoughts.

Prime the PE with a good primer, especially if you use acrylic paints to help the paint stick to the brass.

I have one of the fancy PE bending tools Bish mentioned and never use it. I addition to the 3 tools he mentioned, my most important PE tool is a piece of thick glass to work on. Then a machinist's scale to hold the part down, lining the scale up with the score line on the PE part, and a good 'ol single edge razor blade to bend the PE. Same as Bish, I often use flat nose pliers instead of the glass and machinist's scale.

And last, I do have Tamiya's excellent diamond file for PE. I use it clean up flash.

I think you will find most modeller paint their PE otherwise it would stick out quite a bit.

For tools, a good set of PE cutters and sharp blades for your knife are the best i could suggest. There are PE bending tools out there, but i find a good pair of flat nosed pliers works just fine.