Drew Cook

Original Imrie-Risley 54mm U.S. paratrooper figures. Came out in the 1970s.

 

Awsome. I have a couple of those tucked away somewhere. Looking forward to some photos.

I personally use Vallejo's primer for brushing on.  Comes in a variety of colors, settles great, and dries pretty fast right out of the bottle.  I used it on tin flats, and it sticks to metal sufficiently, as long as it isn't scraped or gouged, though may take a couple coats.  

Original Imrie-Risley 54mm U.S. paratrooper figures. Came out in the 1970s.

What are you working on Drew??

Thank you, guys, for all your answers. I appreciate it!

Back when I first started on figures resin didn't exist, it was either plastic or white metal. In those days the white metal figures still contained a certain amount of lead. In order to avoid any later problems due to the lead content metal figures were generally undercoated in grey or white enamel. I still use Humbrol white enamel and have never had a problem.

I've used the regular Tamiya white primer for years on pewter gaming figures and never had any issues with it. Games Workshop/Citadel stuff should be just as good but the Tamiya stuff is easier to find.

Nope.  After the Gunze primer goes on.  Gunze goes on the bare metal.

Eaglecash867

...One thing I discovered about the Gunze stuff is that it works best if you don't handle the part until after a coat of your normal primer (I use decanted Tamiya Grey Surface Primer) goes on...

Do you mean you have to prime the piece, before using the Gunze primer?

BarrettDuke

I have given up on Tamiya's metal primer for PE. It fails most of the time in my experience. I don't know how it would hold up on white metal, but I'd use Mr. Metal Primer before using the Tamiya stuff.

 

That is very good info, thank you BarrettDuke! Sounds like I'd best order a jar of the Mr Hobby product.

Eaglecash867

One thing I discovered about the Gunze stuff is that it works best if you don't handle the part until after a coat of your normal primer (I use decanted Tamiya Grey Surface Primer) goes on. That seems to lock everything together. That method worked great on the metal landing gear on my 1/32 Su-25...no flaking or chipping so far and it has gotten A LOT of handling with all of the customizations I'm putting into that model. I had tried just the Tamiya Grey Surface Primer on my 1/32 F-16 metal landing gear and found that it was still pretty easy to inadvertently rub or chip paint off of it. Could have been the Tamiya X-2 paint though, because I'm using MRP paint on the Su-25, and that already has proven to be far more durable than our beloved Tamiya paint.

That's something I never would have anticipated. I have some white metal struts to paint, I'll try to keep that in mind. Thanks again!

Greg

Thanks for the info, Eagle. Appreciate it. Since posting yesterday, I found that Tamiya also has a metal primer. Have you or anyone tried it?

I haven't tried the Tamiya stuff yet, but its Tamiya, so you probably can't go wrong with it.  One thing I discovered about the Gunze stuff is that it works best if you don't handle the part until after a coat of your normal primer (I use decanted Tamiya Grey Surface Primer) goes on.  That seems to lock everything together.  That method worked great on the metal landing gear on my 1/32 Su-25...no flaking or chipping so far and it has gotten A LOT of handling with all of the customizations I'm putting into that model.  I had tried just the Tamiya Grey Surface Primer on my 1/32 F-16 metal landing gear and found that it was still pretty easy to inadvertently rub or chip paint off of it.  Could have been the Tamiya X-2 paint though, because I'm using MRP paint on the Su-25, and that already has proven to be far more durable than our beloved Tamiya paint.

I have given up on Tamiya's metal primer for PE. It fails most of the time in my experience. I don't know how it would hold up on white metal, but I'd use Mr. Metal Primer before using the Tamiya stuff.

Eaglecash867

 

 

Greg

How does it adhere to PE?

 

 

 

 

PE is actually what I use it for, even though it was created for figure painting.  It hangs on like grim death.  Excellent stuff. 

 

Just be really careful with using it.  You definitely don't want to get it on your skin because its just as caustic as it smells.  The smell goes away really quickly though...kinda that same CA "make your eyes water" smell before it cures.

 

Thanks for the info, Eagle. Appreciate it.

Since posting yesterday, I found that Tamiya also has a metal primer. Have you or anyone tried it? I haven't started looking to order yet, so trying to keep my options open depending on inventories. Already checked my local Hobbytown yesterday, who didn't quite understand what I was asking about. (No offense to the franchise, this particular store specializes in RC)

Drew Cook

Hey guys,

What's the best brush-on primer for metal figures?

I'm about to start painting the Imrie-Risley 54mm U.S. paratrooper figures I've had for years. Thanks in advance. 

It's a shame you don't have I/R's own proprietary primer, it'd be appropriate to the figure

I paint metal figures, too, and though I now use Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer in rattlecans, and sometimes, automotive primers, I started out using Tamiya's acrylic XF-20 Medium Gray, right out of the jar, no thinning.  It worked pretty well as a primer in its own right.  Though if I were to use it today, I'd thin it with Tamiya's acrylic thinner.

Greg

How does it adhere to PE?

PE is actually what I use it for, even though it was created for figure painting.  It hangs on like grim death.  Excellent stuff. 

Eaglecash867

Gunze Mr. Metal Primer

 

How does it adhere to PE?

Sometimes I use the Tamiya primer and if I'm out I'll grab a can from Walmart, you get a lot more for just a bit more money but both work.

Eaglecash867

Gunze Mr. Metal Primer

I'll Second that.

Gunze Mr. Metal Primer