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Thanx
Your figure looks great. I do have access to good paints, but I wish my stuff would look more like your work. You’re doing just fine.
knox
Because I use oils as my 'top coat', (I block out the main colours in enamels), I place the oil paint on a peice of cardboard and thin the colour with turps. Turps helps to reduce the sheen and the cardboard draws of the excess oil.
I long to live in a world where chickens can cross the road without having their motives questioned
Theuns The one thing I need to get right still is to get a totally matt finish foat. What do you guys use for your final matt claer? Thanx Theuns
The one thing I need to get right still is to get a totally matt finish foat. What do you guys use for your final matt claer?
Theuns
I use Testor's DullCote for my matte coat, on figures as well as on models. I've never had a problem with it.
The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.
I had issues with matte varnish being totally flat. I ended up going with Alclad matte finish, it's dead flat and so far I've had no issues with it.
"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen
Not bad, Theuns! Don't be hard on yourself-like any other skill, including the skills we use in the rest of the hobby, you get better with practice. You're on a good path.
As for paints, I'm with Dodgy. You don't need to buy dedicated figure paints; there really isn't such a thing, unless you consider the fantasy wargamer brands dedicated figure paints. But even those are just water-based acrylics with color names designed to appeal to fantasy wargamer painters. "Brown" can't just be "brown", it has to be "Dwarf Poop" or something similar.
In my paintbox, I have water-based acrylics, from Andrea, Vallejo, Lifecolor, but also craft-store brands Americana, Apple Barrel, and Folk Art; Tamiya acrylics; Testor's and Model Master enamels (till I use up that stash); lacquers; and oils. I've accumulated those over forty years. But it's not the paint, it's the painter. It's all a matter of practice.
G'day Theuns. Don't rush out and buy paints. I use Humbrol flesh mixed with burnt sienna for my base and then work with about 3 oils to build up highlights and shadows. It's a great figure and you have done extremely well.
Thanx mate
That looks cool, nice work Theuns!!!
Thanx. I might do another figure in the future but they are a specialized thing here and painfully expensive and I will have to buy all the "flesh tones" ect that I cant really use on any of my other models.
For now I will stick to my normal subjects LOL
I just did a bust for our contest and I think you did a better job than I did. One thing I had problems with were teh eyes. I tried paint, then went to some black decal material punched out with my Waldron punch, and finally setteled on eye decals. These were made by Archerand come in various typer from annima to creatures.
i ordered a coiuple sets and they have a lot of eye detail. I picked the size I needed and carefully cut around the image because they are printed on a solid sheet. When in place I added a small amount of solvaset. It was a good improvement over my previous trys.
He looks great! Yes a flat coat will help a lot. Great skin tones. Nice work buddy.
Thanks,
John
I have had this little resin figure for some time and not being a figure painter thought I would give it a go.
I watched loads of tutoral vids to get the basics but I sont have access to all the fancy dedicated figure paints so had to use what ever humbrol enamels I had at hand.
The final matt coat is not quite dull enough, I will have to re-do that.
It is supose to be a RAF pilot early in WW2 wearing a 1930's pattern Sidcot flying suite.
raf pilot 75mm by Theunis van Vuuren, on Flickr
He will form part of my eventual 1/24 Typhoon build
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