Paints for Figures

Thanks for the great advice.

I tried oils, didn't like them...use Vallejo acrylics now for everything. The key to a good face is getting the primer down and cured, I use Armory primers from Alliance Games in Baltimore. Depending on what kind of figure I'm doing, or the predominant color, I'll prime in grey, white or black.

The key to Vallejos is getting a good base color, I use 804 Beige Red as a base color, airbrushed. Then it's a wash of thinned Citadel inks, Flesh Wash or Brown ink works well. Once that's done, start applying thin, almost clear, washes of paint, building up in layers. I also take most of the paint off the brush by touching it to a paper towel before touching the model, this eliminates puddles.

I typically start with a medium flesh #860, then do another wash of ink, basic skintone #815, another wash, and then Light Flesh #928 for the highlights. I'll generally go back and apply a very very thin ink Flesh Wash to blend everything in.

Hope that helps

Jeff

Something you might wish to pick up, is the Badger paint mixer. For about $10 this thing is like a little milk shake mixer. You just stick it in the paint and flip the switch. It's high rpm will thouroughly mix up your paint and give you the best results. I keep a container of thinner handy that when I'm finished mixing my paint I just give it a swirl in the thinner and a once over with a paper towel and its ready to go again. I use it so often that it's become second nature and I have never really had to clean the mixing attachment more than a wipe.

You may be able to pick it up in a spencers gifts as a "personal drink mixer". The long shaft and the star shaped propeller at the end will fit into almost every paint bottle except the vallejo and andrea line. (Because they are squeeze bottles).

If you don't want to pick up one of these, the bb idea is tops and served me for years before I found the motorized one.

A little hunting around the internet will give you some great technique sites as well as some great reviews of paint systems.

I had no problem with modelmasters in the past, all you need to do is pay a little more attention to the faces and hands, thats all, drop a few copper bebes into the bottle, they mix the paint very well.

Like renarts & rjkplasticmod, I use acrylics for fiqure painting. Have been gradually changing over to Vellejo acrylics as I have found these to be extremely good. Still use oils for skin tones and agree with renarts & rjkplasticmod that the Winsor & Newton oils are the best.

Also fully agree with the other comments made by renarts.

I usually prime my figures with a flat white acrylic, Citadel works well for me. On small figures, up to 54mm (1/32), I paint with acrylics. Vallejo is my current favorite acrylic. For larger figures, I paint mostly with oils over a Humbrol enamel base coat. Like Mike, I prefer Winsor & Newton oils. They cost a little more, but are worth it. I also use ModelMaster enamels for some metallics & Tamiya clear acrylic for some special effects.

Regards, Rick

Clean your figures well with a detergent and water. If plastic, you can paint directly or opt to prime first then paint. A resin or metal figure must be primed first. Everyone has a persoanl favorite and it depends on uniform colors etc, but I use either a flat white or flat light grey automotive enamel primer. I then paint an acrylic underbase and either continue to use acrylics or switch to oils.

I have come to believe that if you can put it on a brush it can work. I have seen everything from guache to oils used and with stunning results.

My favorites are the vallejo line of acrylic paints, andrea (also made by vallejo, just contracted to andrea), tamiya paints and model masters. Although I have used Americana and deso art acrylics to good results. Winsor & Newton are my favorite oils. Expensive but smooth, good pigment and blend nicely.

Others use enamels and there are several good companies out there that have a myriad of paints. I wish I had a definate answer for you, but the best way is for you to continue to ask and experiment till you find a "paint system" that works for you and gives you the results you are looking for.

Don't try to cover the surface completely with one coat. You will have better results by doing a couple of light coats and that will yield a good solid coverage and smooth base. From there you can then build up your highlights and then your shadows (it's easier to paint dark over light than it is to paint light over dark).

If you use enamels for a base, allow them to cure thoroughly before getting in and trying to use washes as the solvent will affect the base coat. If I paint in oils, I use an acrylic for an underbase and this way the thinner solvent won't damage the base coat. If I continue to use acrylics I make sure that the previous coat or work is dry and cured so that if I have to "work" an area it won't damage the previous coat. This can be 24 hours or longer dependent on conditions (hot, cool, dry , humid etc)

Good luck.