A Question on snow

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 19, 2004 9:20 PM

Here is a little trick that I use to get a good removeable joint.

Lets say you got a separate arm for the figure and want to keep it removable.
1.) Pin the part as normal but do not assemble it.
2.) On the body cover the joint with a thin layer of epoxy putty( I use either MoriMori or SubeSube).
3.) Cover the joint + a bit on the arm with vaseline.
4.) Attach the arm and clean/smoothen the joint up, adding/removing putty as you need.
5.) When you are happy with the joint set aside to let it dry.
6.) Once dried pop the arm off and you should have a joint that when reassembled is nearly invisible. The vaseline prevents the putty from sticking to the arm, remember to wash the arm.
7.) Paint and finish the figure and arm as normal.

Works best when there is a line on the joint as with many Japanese figure kits(i.e. joint is where leg attaches to panty or similar.

HTH.

FYI: I use a the same method for joining 2 parts and fill the gaps in one step(sans vaseline of course).

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ghamilt1

Member since
June 2004
From: Western Canada

Posted by ghamilt1 on Sunday, December 19, 2004 9:08 PM

Again, many thanks for your advice gentlemen. I tried the baking soda method this afternoon and I have to say I like what I see so far. Despite the fact that it doesn't sparkle like real snow, it looks convincing and the price was right.

I will definately come prepared to California. I was planning on checking the tools with my luggage, and taking the figures themselves aboard as carry on. In any case, I will make sure my tool kit incorporates your suggestions. "Better to have it and not need it than to need it, and not have it"

Just picked a new digital camera for the holidays, so I will be sure to post this snowy figure as soon as I get some decent natural light conditions here in the great white North.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 19, 2004 6:57 PM

How do you get a frosting effect on surfaces?

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 19, 2004 2:44 PM

Glenn.

Not a problem. I am currently busy with a fig for a show in August(that is when I get back in january).
The fig stands about 40cm tall and has a base of 20x20cm(supplied), no way that I can transport that one in one piece due to it's design. So out comes the vaseline to help me get nice gluejoints. Wink [;)]

Anyhuh, at shows I have seen guys even walk in with RC-Battery powered compressors and airbrushes.
My Show tool kit consists of bassically everything I need to build and assemble a kit, plus the most important colours in small jars and a few brushes for needed touch-up paint.
Touching up air-brushed work is tough and I normally use multiple layers of fine dry-brushing, so far so good.

For final assembly I use small drops of odorless and non-fogging CA, this way I can break the pieces off again after the show without doing any major damage.
On average I try to get enough time to spend 30~90min. at the setting-up tables, plus a good opportunity to make friends and share info.

If you got a friend that models close by to a show, try to borrow his bench for a night or so prior to the Show/Event.

HTH.

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renarts

Member since
April 2003
From: Sunny Florida

Posted by renarts on Sunday, December 19, 2004 1:20 PM

Glen,

I use baking powder or talcum powder for my snow effects. I under paint the areas that will have the snow and then use a mix of glue and water as an adhesive. A spritzer bottle with an atomizer on it will allow you to do large areas, or over trees etc.

Unless you are a heavy smoker and you keep your bases in the room that you do alot of smoking in, you shouldn't have a problem with discoloration. I have heard some good things about the commercial snow products out there and there is an advantage that because of the materials they use, depending on the scale, you can get a little sparkle like sun hitting fresh snow.

Like MM, I suggest you put together a traveling kit of sanding sticks, superglue and putty. obviously no tools because of flight regulatins but if necessary most shows have a vendor room that will cover any of your needs. They can be donated to a local club if you don't want to carry them home or I usually hand them off to some kid wandering through the show. Most local guys are nice enough to loan you tools if you need them.

Mike "Imagination is the dye that colors our lives" Marcus Aurellius A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"

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ghamilt1

Member since
June 2004
From: Western Canada

Posted by ghamilt1 on Sunday, December 19, 2004 11:48 AM

First off, I am sorry about the multiple postings. I have a nasty tendency to agree to things before reading all the rules, but that is certainly no excuse, and I would like to assure you all that I will ammend my practice accordingly.

Thanks MM for the advice. It sounds as though we share a fondness for expensive figures, and traveling to shows. Much of what you said I have found to be too true. I designed a special carrying case that allows me to screw the base of the figure onto the bottom of the case, preventing alot of the movement which can lead to breakage. From the sounds of it, I may just have to have a quick explanation for those customs people. I'm planning to attend the SCAHMS show in California this March. Maybe I'll see you there. Thanks again.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 19, 2004 12:58 AM

First, I guess you are aware that posting the same topic in multiple forums is against the boards rules, if not reread the rules you agreed to when signing up. Wink [;)]

Second, if you plan on moving/handling the figure a lot a bit of lost snow will be your least worry. Worry more about things breaking off, paint rubbing off, and so on.

Most figure modelers I know only semi-finish the figure and leave the final assembly till they are at the show/contest. And most of the figs get some form of damage on the way home.

If you plan on moving your figs/kits a lot you need to plan those steps prior to staring the fig/kit.
I.e. does the figure need to be removable from the base, how is it going to be shipped, which parts can easily break off, can I make those easily damageable parts removeable, etc.

I learned the hard way and spend many an hour at the setup table doing last minute fixes and repairs with too little resources and materials.

IMO and IME there is a big difference between building for yourself and building for a Show/Event/Contest.

FYI, the figs I take to shows and events on average cost between $150~300.

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ghamilt1

Member since
June 2004
From: Western Canada

A Question on snow

Posted by ghamilt1 on Sunday, December 19, 2004 12:39 AM

Good day.

I posted this on the diorama site, but thought maybe some of my fellow figure enthusiasts could help out too.

I am almost finished a rather complicated figure (and a really expensive one at that) and I need to apply a little artificle snow to the ground work for that final, perfect touch. I did some some research and it appears that most diorama builders use one of two methods for snow. 1. a combination of white glue and baking powder or 2. the same white glue and a ready made commercial snow product of one kind or another.

What has been your experience with these methods? Does the stuff stick? I'm planning on taking this figure to some shows over the next year, so I'm a little concerned about having to reapply a new layer of snow every time I travel. (can you imagine having to explain to curious customs officals about that white powdery substance in the plastic bag in my luggage.) Does the snow effect last, or does it some how change in colour or consistancy over time?

Thanks in advance for taking the time to consider this question. It's an expensive figure, so I need to get it right the first time, and any advice you could offer would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers;
Glenn

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