Seam Filling

Patrick,

Here are a couple of ideas for you in regards to seam filling. I use Bondo Glazing & Spot putty. (Not the kind for repairing car bodies --- this comes in a tube) It is an excellent product. MUCH less shrinkage than the "Green Putty". If you need to thin it, it can be cut with liquid cement or ordinary rubbing alcohol. It is obtainable at Walmart or similar stores in the Auto Supply section and costs about $1.50 for a 4.5 oz tube which will last for many projects. I apply it with small flat spatulas. I got mine in a set from the Micro Mark catalog and they are great. Very inexpensive and I would recommend every modeler get a couple similar tools for this task. If you have a large flat area to cover, spread a thin coat of putty over and use a soft cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to smooth the seam. You may need to do this a couple times. As far as getting rid of the hairline seam, the only "secret" is to repeat the process of puttying thin coats and wet/dry sanding with 400 & then 600 grit paper. It IS time consuming and at first it may not seem to be working. Dont get discouraged though. It WILL work beautifully. Hope this tip helps.

Barry
Gemini Model Build-Up Studios
www.geminibuildupstudios.com

Yeah, as Eric says,Mr Surfacer from Gunze Sangyo is available as 500 and 1000 grid.
You can use this liquid putty for seem filling and even texturing...
You can even sprayed from an airbrush as a primer.
I usually use it for final layer and finishing.
Another way is to start with very thin instant glue and use it like a wash.Leave it to run inside seams and repeat when desired.Sand smooth and apply Mr Surfacer for final smoothing.
See an example with a female big scale figure I've done
Here after final coat with liquid putty
http://img75.exs.cx/img75/3905/pb1500044tr.jpg
and here with some coats of paint
http://img114.exs.cx/img114/3387/bathory101bu.jpg

Patrick,

You mentioned "hairline seams". In this case the Squadron putties might not be the best item to use. If they were larger seams then I'd say use them. I know I do and have had great luck with them. However, for the hairline seams I use something called Mr. Surfacer. It's a liquidy grey substance which I often apply just with a toothpick. Since the product is really meant for small seams or scratches then you really don't need much more than a toothpick to apply it. It dries very quickly and sands wonderfully. Another trick I picked up on the FSM forum is to use Liquid Paper. It pretty much has the same characteristics as Mr. Surfacer. Watch out with the liquid paper though. I've had it peel up on me if I'm masking over it. I've never run into that problem with Mr. Surfacer. But again, if you're not going to be masking over the particular area then you're perfectly okay using liquid paper.

I hope this helps!

Eric

Patrick;

I am not familiar with Revell's glue, however I am sure it is the same type as Tamiya. I use Tamiya because that is what I had available.

The second answer is. The syringes are not clinical/medical type "technically" in that these are blunt nosed tips (If you jabbed hard enough they would pierce the skin but you'd have to use a lot of force) The tip is not sharpened as a medical injection needle would be. I bought these from a store that sells Do It Yourself furniture repair kits.

I am not sure where you are located globally so I can not advise further to locate the syringes without at least the country.

Further to your next question regarding flattening. The method I use is this. I apply the seam filler in as thin a line as necessary to do the job. If it requires a second application to completely fill the seam I apply a second once the first has set for at least 24 hrs. Once the filler has set I sand it down with (You will laugh but they work great) Emery Boards that ladies use for fingernails. These can be found at the pharmacy where the nail polish is. So once you get over the embarrasment of buying these. Start with the coarse grit first and work to the fine grit. These can be used to sand with or without the application of water. If I have to sand with water I fill up the sink or a basin and sand inside it. The only other suggestion with regards to sanding is you should wear some sort of mask that covers your nose and mouth. The dust tends to be very fine and can cause problems later in life according to studies. Better safe than sorry right.

That is about all I can think of currently. Please reply and I will assist in finding the required items where I can.

Cheers;

Gregory

Thanks Gregory

I appreciate the response. I can go get Tamiya liquid glue but will Revell's do as this is the liquid glue I'm currently using. Are these clinic/medical syringes available from pharmacies ? The 'tips' you mentioned, are these needles ? Once the mixture is applied do I have to flatten it out with a small spatula of sorts ? Any sanding ? If so, what grade of sandpaper would you recomend ? Any water used ? Hope you don't mind my asking again. I really need to have a thorough understanding of this new concept before applying it and make my one shot count first time.

I have picked up a few techniques along the way and if there's anything you need feel free to e-mail me ( if the e-mail icon on this page is for that purpose ) or ask here. Once again thanks.

Regards
Patrick

Patrick:

I have felt your pain. However I have found the solution in the back pages of one of my many modeling references.

I dilute the Squadron green putty with Tamiya Liquid Cement inside a syringe.
I forget which article and particular magazine, but suffice to say it is over 20 years old.

In the body of the syringe I squeeze a length of squadron putty and added twice the height of the putty in liquid cement directly on top of the putty inside the syringe.

When stirred well, you can actually feel the putty "soften". I placed the plunger section into the body and squeezed out all of the excess air (hence no bubbles to find when sanding) Then I selected a syringe tip of the smallest dimension and applied the putty whereever necessary. I capped the syringe off when finished with a push pin from my noticeboard when it is not is use and the putty is still soft and applies evenly after 38 days. The best of all is that I control the amount of putty that goes out with the plunger and I can shape the tip to suit the application. Pinching the tip with a set of pliers created a nice narrow almost pencil line fine tip for weld seams on my latest kit.

I am sure you will have the same great results.

My sources for the syringes was a woodworking shop here in Ontario named LEE VALLEY that sells kits to repair loose wooden chair legs. A packet of 10 with mixed sizes of tips for $3.00 is more than enough for quite a lot of builds. I believe they do on-line ordering. Check them out some real finds there for small tools as well.

I hope this will solve your seam problem.

Cheers;

Gregory