Gun straps in 1/35 for figures

ungrund

The photo-etch machine I have is named ETCH MATE. It is a self contained benchtop unit that was available a few years ago. It works great and is easy to use. I am not sure whether the company is still in business. However you can buy a similar system from a company called Micro-Mark www.micromark.com if you look in the list you will find the system I mention. The alternative is to watch on eBay for an Etch-Mate to come up for bids.

I hope this helps.

Cheers;

Gregory

i've tried aluminum foils found in milk cans by cutting them to appropriate thickness. i think they work realistically coz they can be shaped according to the desired angles and they stayed that way without much difficulty

good day. i'm curious on how to go about making photo etched buckles for the gunstraps. mention was made about a photo etch machine & i'm wondering where it available. thanks.

this is ungrund

A_DRUST;

I use two methods. The first is as mentioned above, foil from wine bottles. It is thicker than cooking foil and retains the shape I place it in. I cut it with a ruler and sharp blade on a flat glass drink coaster. The second is surgical tape. I take the adhesive off the back by soaking the tape in acetone first and then cut it on my coaster.

Making of buckles for my slings depends on which weapon I am building. I am lucky to have my own photo-etch machine to make buckles. However some are too fine to etch. So I make them as required from either fine wire, flattened solder etc. I do this by looking at the reference photo and build a small jig to wrap the wire around or press the solder in or around. I use small finishing nails or sewing straight pins to make the jig. I draw the buckle on a piece of wood and place the nails or pins at the inside edges of the corners of the buckle and fold the wire or solder around with fine tweezers or needle-nose pliers depending on the thickness of the wire or solder. I find it easier to use the wire if it has been heated. I use a micro-torch to take the "spring" out of it. Once this has been done it folds perfectly.

I hope this helps.

Cheers;

Gregory

Would aluminum foil work for straps?

I myself am about to build some 1/35 figures, and their guns are strapless. Luckily, I stumbled across this topic.

I've also tried using thick metal foil from the necks of wine bottles for making straps. It has the advantage that you can position it pretty much any way you want and it will stay there without too much difficulty.

I like the buckle idea, although I think that I'd go for PE before I tried to make too many of them that way.

I always used paper,until I saw that Bill Horan uses electrical tape. That's what I use now, though I also sculpt straps from epoxy putty when I need more control over shape. I never use putty for rifle straps though.

I've done the masking tape method, but I don't like the texture, especially in smaller scales.

I make buckles from steel or copper wire. It's a little tidious, but works for me. I hold the wire flat on the table with an X-acto knife blade and bend along the back edge. Then I move to the next point where I want a bend and do it again. Then I make the final bend to close the square. The excess is then snipped off with my sprue cutter.

You can use the varying thickness of No 11 blades (as in the width from back edge to cutting edge, going from the point down to the handle) to help create the appropriate size of the buckle. Just rest the cutting edge against the first bend and then slide the blade until the back edge lines up to the desired spot for the next bend. Just use a length of wire long enough to hold securely in your fingers while you work.

I have a photoetched kit by Royal Model which contains buckles and straps in 1/35. I never really thought about making those by myself!