renarts wrote: |
because CA has good pull strenght bu no sheer
strength. A simple application of downward or cross pressure on a part
will break it away from the main piece. |
|
That's the truth. All you need to do is twist a CA'd joint, unless of course you
want the joint to separate. Then all the de-bonder in the world won't help you.
I like Pegasso's 54mm better than Andrea's in general because Pegasso's
faces in that scale are typically more refined, while Andrea's tend to
be more chiseled. Andrea figures are still top notch and their casting
process is supurb, but it's just a personal thing for me.
If I had to chose between a resin kit with a horrible fit issue
due to mold squishing, or a metal kit with a horrible fit due to mold
squishing, I'd go with the former. Resin is a lot easier to fill and
shape in those conditions IMO, though sometimes there's no helping a
kit. I picked up Pili Pili's Tomoe Gozen bust and the head was
elongated due to mold squishing. It worked okay, her neck was too long
and her head was narrow. Not freakishly long and narrow, but too much
for a Japanese woman. It was a shame too because it's a beautifully
sculpted kit. There was nothing I could do in that case, and it
wouldn't have been any better in metal than in resin.
Sometimes I find that resin details are too crisp, but I guess that's a problem you
want
to have. Also resin kits are typically cast in RTV silicone molds, and
the molds have a definite mortality to them. When they start to degrade
the mold begins to swell, as microscopic bits of resin fill and cure in
the pores of the mold surface and build up, and finer details, and even
larger details, get constricted. The heat involved in the curing
process for resins also takes it's toll on a mold cavity. It gets waxy
and brittle. The silicone used for white metal is heat cured and seems
to live a little longer, though I'm sure it has it's own
characteristics when the mold starts to turn south. I've really only
worked with RTV.
Silicone curing process is another factor in how the figures are
sculpted though. Renats mentioned arms and details being cast in place
on metal figures.This is due, in part, to the fact that you have to
cure the molds for metal figures in an oven and the master pattern
needs to be able to withstand the heat. So, details typically made from
styrene and other modeling materials which might be made separately and
glued onto the master (or cast as separate parts) are sculpted in place
from of the same material as the body instead. You could make them from
coper or brass sheet, but they aren't always as easy to work with as
just sculpting the details.With RTV, heat only accellerates the cure,
but isn't neccessary, so you can use all sorts of materials which might
melt or warp under heat, which makes for very crisp detail work.