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Tip for those new to painting figures...

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Tip for those new to painting figures...
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 1, 2003 3:05 AM
i just found out that i suck at painting faces on 1/35 scale figures. but the good news is that tamiya acrylic paints are easily disolved by tamiya's thinner (and probably rubbing alcohol)- even if the paint has been dry for days. so after applying way too many coats of paint trying to get it right, the faces lost much of their detail. but i was able to just start over by disolving the dried paint and using cotton swabs and toothpicks to remove it (just be careful not to get the thinner on the other parts). much cheaper than having to buy new figures, and who know i might figure out how to paint faces after all.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 1, 2003 1:27 PM
Hey goatboy, whats your favorite part of the face to do? For me its the eyes.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 1, 2003 1:29 PM
Hey goatboy, whats your favorite part of the face to do? For me its the eyes.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 1, 2003 2:18 PM
probably adding highlights by drybrushing. highlights always make everthing come to life (at least in theory).
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Brazil
Posted by dancar on Saturday, August 2, 2003 8:11 AM
A good way to do the eyes is to apply a cote of white enamel, and then paint the face with flat flash acrilycs. After the paint is dried, I use a fine brush moistened in alcohol and brush carfully over the eyes. It will remove the flesh acrilycs but the white enamel will stay. Then you just have to paint the iris.
The good thing is, you won't get a " too white dool's eyes"
Smile [:)]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 2, 2003 8:23 AM
When you make a mistake on a figure, or any other kit, you may want to try Floquil's ELO (Easy Lift Off). This stuff works with water and does a fine job of removing any type of paint. Just a suggestion, as this does not tend to disturb the plastic or resin of the kit.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 2, 2003 3:24 PM
DANCAR I WILL TRY THAT :)

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Sunny Florida
Posted by renarts on Saturday, August 2, 2003 4:42 PM
Hey Bull,
What sort of base is the ELO? Petroleum? Alcohol? Spirits? It sounds like cool stuff.

Mike
Mike "Imagination is the dye that colors our lives" Marcus Aurellius A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Sunny Florida
Posted by renarts on Saturday, August 2, 2003 5:00 PM
I've been playing with painting the faces the flesh color, then doing a burnt umber wash. This fills in the crevices , eyes, frown lines etc. Then I dry brush the highlights and it seems to work pretty well. I talked to sme guys who have been winning figure comps and some of them were using the same method. I was skeptical at first but once you get the feel of it and work it a little, it looks good on 1/35.

Mike
Mike "Imagination is the dye that colors our lives" Marcus Aurellius A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 2, 2003 5:06 PM
I've found that "ZEB" removes paint without damaging the plastic, no matter how old the paint. I also paint the face burnt sienna or burnt umber and let it dry. Add white to the eyeballs and then the iris, leaving a little bit of white in the corners. I then drybrush the face in a fleshy colour, leaving the recesses dark. I eventually drybrush the highlights in a lighter shade than the fleshy colour. This way you do not obliterate the detail on the face.
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