120mm Verlinden Waffen SS Infantryman *finished...finally*

The photos are a bit dark , but the painting looks excellent, Wolfp! I think a base would finish off this piece awfully well...

Regards, Dan

Pics are a little dark but the figure looks great!

Thanks for the positive comments.  I started working on the base yesterday and hope to have it finished by the end of next week.  Will take some more pics than with a little more light.  Cheers.

Nice looking figure, you did an excellent job on painting him. Can't wait to see him finished.

Excellent job. His uniform and equipment are superb. Nice work

Rich

nice job all round, especially like the camo smok and helmet, will look nice on a base, thanks for the look . 

Thanks for the positive comments again...couple days more and the base should be finished, ran into a problem while applying the finish.  Anywho, he'll be standing alongside the road with a small wheat crop behind him, at least that's the intent for now.  Cheers. 

Here he is based and ready.  I have him standing next to a road with my attempt at a wheatfield in the background (although it looks more like some sort of growth you would find in a swamp).  Pics may be a little dark.  I am still working on scrounging the cash for a camera stand and a couple of cheap-o lights.  Anyway, give me your thoughts and critiques.  Cheers! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Awesome! I'll print some of them to use as reference for the Germans I'm painting now. (1/35)
More pics needed when you get a digital camera please!

Thanks Homer.  If you have access to a copy, take a look at "How to Paint Realistic Military Figures"  by Kessler and Winar.  Its published by Kalmbach, or at least it was, if its still in print.  I used it's tips for nearly the entirety of the figure.  It and Shep Paines "Building and Painting Scale Figures" are pretty much what I use for reference when painting figures.  I got the figure painting CD from Andrea but was a little disappointed for the money I spent, but others seem to like it.

I got that book by Kessler. It's a good book, I read it a lot. What I lacking for obvious reasons are which colors to use for uniforms and accessories. That's why I'll print some of your pictures for reference.
I think the colors you used are awesome.

Are the colors mixed, or paint straight from bottle?
Which color are you using for his leather straps?

Of course you ask the one question most difficult for me to answer   I have the bad habit of not writing anything down while painting, so remembering my color mixes is definitely a task.  Here is what I can remember by type of paint and color:

Entire model was primed with testors white spray primer.

Face:  Base Coat - was 5:1 mix of Accent country colors medium flesh, and liquitex burnt sienna.  Washed face with a 10 or 15:1 mix of water to liquitex burnt sienna ( gave it a nice glow).  original base coat mix plus 1 part liquitex raw umber.  Deep shadows 1 part liquitex burnt umber + a touch of original base coat.

Camouflage smock and helmet cover:  first established a tri-color base scheme with tamiya olive green, tamiya red brown, and 3:1 tamiya olive green + tamiya yellow (light olive).  Mottling was accomplished by using the olive green, light olive green, and either tamiya desert yellow or dark yellow, I cant remember which.  Shadows were accomplished with a very thin dark grey wash.  Highlights were first Tamiya Khaki followed by Tamiya Buff.

Trousers, jacket and helmet:  Base coat was Tamiya field grey.  highlights were field gray plus tamiya dark sea grey 3:1 I think.  Final highlight, last highlight plus a touch of white (just enough to lighten the color noticeably).  Shading was accomplished by mixing field gray and a touch of tamiya blue.  Deep shadows field gray and tamiya royal blue.

leather items:  H-Harness and belt base coat were 3 parts liquitiex mars black and 1 part liquitex blue.  Shadows are pure black, highlights are 1 part black + 1 part blue plus then + a touch of liquitex violet.  boots were base coated in Poly-S Night Black followed by highlights given before.  Brown leather items, such as the chin strap, were base coated in burnt umber, then highlighted with raw umber, then a mix of raw umber burnt sienna 2:1.

canteen, butt-pack, magazine carriers:  Base coat was a light olive green (olive green + yellow 3:1), shadows were olive green, highlights were khaki, followed by a lighter olive green, 1 part olive green to 1 part yellow, final highlights were Tamiya Buff (gives them a kinda worn appearance)

gas mask carrier:  Base coat Tamiya RLM 2 Gray.  Shadows were RLM2 Gray plus black (applied as Wash), highlights dark sea gray, final highlights very light dry brushing of tamiya aluminum.

mess kit:  base coat of field gray, shadows field gray plus tamiya sea blue 1:1.  Highlights tamiya dark sea gray plus field gray.  Final highlight, very light drybrushing of tamiya aluminum.

canvas straps: were base coated in tamiya buff, shadows were tamiya khaki, highlights were tamiya deck tan.

Weapon:  Blue black 2parts liquitex black to 1 part liquitex blue blue, shadows were a black wash.  Highlights are pencil graphite rubbed on the weapon with my finger.

Outlining:  On canvas smock and helmet cover: liquitex burnt umber.  On trowsers and field blouse tamiya sea blue plus liquitex black.

toning wash:  knee caps and below - Winsor and Newton burnt umber oil.

list of paints used:

Liquitex:  Raw umber, burnt umber, burnt sienna, mars black, violet, light blue violet, white.

Tamiya:  Buff, Khaki, Red Brown, Royal Blue, Sea Blue, Field gray, olive green, dark sea gray, yellow, blue, aluminum, deck tan.

poly-s:  Night black

accent country colors:  Medium flesh.

I think that's about it.  Now dont quote me on the color mixes and ratios, those are to the best of my recollection.  For me, its a matter of messing around with different colors and proportions until I find the right shade or color.  You are probably chuckling about the craft store paint, such as accent country color.  The truth is, when I first started painting figures, (starving college student painting WH40K stuff) they were all I could afford.  Personally, liquitex is my favorite acrylic because of the pigment consistency and its what I am familiar with.  That, and the fact they last forever.  I am considering trying the andrea colors becuase I have heard nothing but rave reviews.  I guess the moral of the story is use whatever you like, but you dont have to break the bank to get results.  Hope this helps and cant wait to see how your figures turn out.  Shoot me a line if you need anything else.

Thanks, that gives me many ideas to test at home.

Once I have something I'm proud off, I'll post the pics here on the forum.