Figure painting

A bit late I realize, but I highly reccommend Osprey Publishing's "Modeling Panzer Crewmen of the Heer." Very informative.

SST

I'm also working on some firefly figure but there outfit is diffrent (of course), what color outfit are most british tank crew?

My base caucasian flesh is Vallejo beige red. Pretty close to my skin color. Shadows and highlights are achieved with the addition of dark fleshtone and or light flesh.

I have also had success in mixing titanium white and burnt sienna oils.

Gloves...looks at the box art or painting instructions. Depending in the quality of th efigure, look to see if there are vein lines on the back of the hand or fingernails sculpted on. That will tell you that you have bare hands. Look to see if there are straight seams molded on the back of the hand, a V shaped opening or a clear demarkation line for the edge of the glove.

What color is flesh, I know there is a color called flesh but its too light, plus its difficult putting it on the figures without ruined the neckshave if there is a clothing there.

What other color is there for flesh, ex: my tiger tank crew flesh color is more of a pinkish color, too ligth, also my M113A1 commander is light tan, wicht mit be too dark. (there's some photo of it in another forum "a excellent M113A1" sorry for the focus)

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And most importanly, how do I know if the figures are wearing gloves?

Start with a base color of dark gray, not black, for the uniform. Save black for the deepest shadows. Add flesh color or light blue to black for the highlights. Make sure your cloth is absolutely dead flat, no sheen at all. Use black for the leathers with flesh added to it for the highlights. Make sure the leathers are semi gloss.satin finished. This will give some variety. Here's a black leather clad figure I did recently.

Thanks, I'll need that info for my Tiger tank crew, there suppost to be black uniform, but now it just looks like the figures are almost completly black, the black boots and black belt doesn't show out and the figure doesn't look realistique if you know what I mean, anyway of making them look better?

After general painting, I give everythinig an airbrushed coat of Testor's Dullcote laquer. Yes, over acrylic paints. For gunstocks, I have been laying a coat of clear gloss, probably from an ancient bottle of Tamiya. For the hair, I have begun using a layer of MicroScale clear satin finish.

Now accessories. I'll generally paint these off the figure, if possible, since it's easier to do with less chance of hitting the main body with a different color. On the figure I posted above, the neck knife, sash, haversack and both sides of breechclout were molded on the body which did make for some challenging painting. The powderhorn was a separate piece as was the right hand/arm/musket assembly and left arm. (The left hand was modified to carry a second musket.) But again, a very fine brush helps in getting the paint where you want it.

Tanks for the info.

But the question I was asking is, do you paint the assesories of a fiqure (gun,bag, luggage etc.) after or before assembling the figure?

Another question I always wanted to know the answer is how do you do the glosse and/or shine effect on a figure that make it more realistique?

Want I saying is how to do the fine detail like ajlafleche india figure has small details on that are impossiblte to paint, like the whitich color in the hair, some kind of gloss that doesn't brighten the blue and the shine on the gun, How do you do this affect?

I started (many) years ago trying to paint whites and pupils and didn't do very well. I then went to applying a wash and was reasonabl;y happy with that and have a couple IPMS National awards for figures done that way. In the last few years, however, from hangong with figure guys and learning from them as well as going to figure based shows, I have taken to painting the eyes fully again. Yeah, it's taken some work, but I get pretty good result with a 10/0 brush. It helps if the sculptor has givn you a good canvas, something most 1/35 scale plasticsdon;t have and the older the worse for detail to guide you.

The 20 foot rule works if you're holding a figure at arms length, but in reality, when I examine a figure, I', no more than 18 inches from the figure. Well painted eyes will make a difference here, and certainly, if I'm taking a close up to post on-line, the lack of eye detail is going to be abunmdantly eveident.

T-rex suggests tan for flesh. I have been using Vallejo red beige as a caucasian base. My woodland Indian figures get two parts red beige and one part dark skintone, while a Crow I'm painting right now started with a 1:1 mix of these colors. Varrious combinations of these become the shadows and light flesh becomes the highest light. That color is also the color of the whites of my eyes, with a dot of dark blue oor brown for the iris. I just experimented with a pale blue iris with a pupil done withthe point on a compass.

Here's a recent example in 54mm, just slightly larger than 1/35:

The only method of make the right postion on figures is the armes, for most fiqures, you must position the arms and heads, sometimes boots and hats, which can be place also any position depending on the scene that you want the characters to be and the position of the arm, for instant, if the arm is bend then there is a limit of appearance, but some can be custemise like one my tank commanders can be turn into a solider by replace the hat into a helmet, but are some assesories are painted after or before assembly the figure?

As for the figure painting some are basic like black boots or leather red brown jacket, but it mostly matter on what position, team and events time the fiqure is (german commander,japanies seaman ect.) but for the face its always flesh, light tan will do too. The eyes on the other hand are so small that only a tooth pick will cover it and as well as the pupal.

fischl616 wrote:

Have to dis-agree with Carves.  How many people (even if Your'e exhibiting in a contest) are going to look at Your figures with a magnifying glass?  At 1/35 scale, have a friend stand 20 feet away.  How much detail do You see?  Paint that!  That's what someone looking at Your 1/35 figure up close will see (and think is realistic).

Hence my statement "Anything smaller than 1/35 I dont bother to paint (you are welcome to try thou)....", meaning that, personally, this is what I did.

But believe me this, eyes for 1/35 scale is still possible and it is always an added value especially when going into a competition. The judges has good eyes and they will see it without a magnifying glass.

I myself dont paint the eyes of my 1/35 scale at the beginning, but as I read more books about figure painting, I start doing it. For me, it has the sence of satisfaction for being able to do it.

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Ben

T-Rex,

Here's a great web site with illustrations and information on painting 1/72 scale plastic figures:

http://www.angelfire.com/id/macp/techniques.html

I used the techniques to paint the figures for my Martin MB-2:

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I'm pretty happy with the results, but I hope to do better next time. [:D ]

Regards, 

I started to work on figures for a 1/35th scale diorama I am planning on the old Bogart film 'Sahara". Below is the first figure nearing completion of the British Captain. My technique is still evolving. Here I tried to us pastels, oils and acrylics. I wanted the character to look dirty and haggard.  Again this is in 1/35th scale and an old Tamiya figure. I would appreciate any comments.

Mike T.

Modifying figs is another skill set but not difficult.. U can do some simple things like making wedge cuts at joints and repositioning them then filling in with putty or favorite filler.

U can mix and match other figs limbs with the kit ones or pick up some aftermarket heads and torsos. Imagination, trial and error and of course practice!!

Good luck its a lot of fun!!

Alright! Thats great, thanks.

I never started figure painting before because I needed to improve on the model its self, I need that information to start on my tank crew (russian T-72 and a Scub) and german (tiger crew, maybe infantry) for my diorama.

But I have another question, as you know when you buy a model kit there isn't much position that the figure is in (like ducking, or aiming ect.) but how do you get the figure to be in the position that you want?

Thanks again.

Ben,

As I recall, I got the contact on one of the company box ads at the back of FSM some time ago.  It's Video Workbench (www.videoworkbench.com) but I couldn't find a current website.  The parent company is ControlTrack Productions, but the only contact I have is off the cover:  401 S. Lorraine, Wichita, KS 67211, (316) 683-1616.  The copyright is 1994, but I purchased it within the last 3 years or so.  Hope that helps.  I guess I shouldn't recommend things that aren't available anymore.  Seems like just yesterday, though............... 

TomB

P.S.  I was toying with the idea of having this and one other video I have converted to DVD for durability-sake.  I could have an extra made for you when I do that if you're interested, as long as I don't run into copyright hassles, which I know nothing about.

TB

Hey TomB,

Do you know if they have a website ? Or perhaps can purchase online ?

Thanks,

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Ben

T-Rex,

I found a video by Video Workshop called "How to build and paint military figures" to be very helpful in my first attempt at painting faces.  There is a good step-by-step section on faces in particular.  The most important thing I learned was that artist oils work best for this application because of their ability to be blended to create depth, shading and highlighting.  Also, you can take your time because they don't dry up on you. 

TomB 

Here are a great links that will get you busy reading for a while;

http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/articles_figures.htm 

If you are struggling painting the face specially, I recomend getting a manifying glass. This should help you see the tiny details better.

The eyes are tricky. Anything smaller than 1/35 I dont bother to paint (you are welcome to try thou). You can try painting by;

1. You paint the entire flesh first then the iris using a tiny wire of tootpick splinter, or
2. You paint the iris first then using flesh color to tidy up the area around it.

Clothing color, I believe Google Image can help you. There are tons of them out there.

Hope this helps,
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Ben

You will just have to practice then practice then practice a little more.  I am starting into the world of more intense figure painting (I just ordered some Vallejo paints).  I have read quite a bit about it washes and tints seem the way to really get the intricate details.

Grizz

Ow Yes it helps alot, I know your not soppost to paint the white and pictures aren't accurat, but thanks for the help.

Lots of options to be honest.

First off, don't try to paint in the whites of the eyes... It'll be overstated no matter HOW tiny you try to make the whites... (that's from personal experience)

For coloring, there are tons of references out there, especially if you're doing WWII items and don't have any color photos to reference.  A web search with the terms "World War 2 Uniform Colors" should provide you with a good start, I would think.

This forum is a great place to start.  I usually don't post, just lurk about looking for good ideas.

Additionally, there are some exceptional books on figure painting as well. 

Hope this helps.