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Help with filling, sanding, & smoothing seems

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by RonUSMC on Monday, April 2, 2007 10:32 AM
Thats a good point. I just ordered some Dissolver Putty as well, going to try that.
http://finescalegallery.com Active Kits: 1/48 AM Avenger 1/35 Sd.Kfz 251 Ausf C
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Friday, March 30, 2007 1:58 AM
Just in case you haven't discovered so already, Mr Surfacer smooths very well with denatured alcohol. It may take several applications of Mr Surfacer to fill your gaps, but once set (I mean completely), you can use a folded paper towel moistened with denatured alcohol and smooth away. It also has the advantage of no ill effects towards styrene. Unlike lacquer thinners, it won't melt your model/figures Smile [:)] 
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by RonUSMC on Thursday, March 29, 2007 11:57 PM

It depends on the putty, but lacquer thinner, enamel thinner, or water should work on each brand.

 

Thats why I like Testors red putty, it comes in a huge tube and is very watery. I push a bit out and mix it up, then apply it in  heaps. For the lacquer thinner I use Testors Metalizer Cleaner, which is just lacquer thinner in a different bottle. Its amazing the results you get from doing it with this method. The only thing you need to watch for is wiping to hard into the seam and not leaving it flat. 

http://finescalegallery.com Active Kits: 1/48 AM Avenger 1/35 Sd.Kfz 251 Ausf C
  • Member since
    March 2007
Posted by brandonlowe2 on Wednesday, March 28, 2007 11:19 AM

how do you go about thinning putty?

i assume 15 minutes is enough for the putty to dry in the seam, but not completely dry outside of the seam, hence the reason it is easy to clean off?

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by RonUSMC on Wednesday, March 28, 2007 10:44 AM

Those techniques work well for a lot of people, but I could never get it to work perfectly. I read online somewhere and here is what I do now.

 

I take either Mr Surfacer (even 500 is too thin for most seams though) or putty, I use Testors or thinned Tamiya.. and put it on the seam. I really gunk it up.  I wait about 15 minutes and take a cotton swab and swipe the seam with Lacquer Cleaner. I take out all of the excess except what is left in the seam. It works very very well. Saves tons of sanding and all the detail.

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Moderator
  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: my keyboard dreaming of being at the workbench
Posted by Aaron Skinner on Wednesday, March 28, 2007 9:38 AM
Brandon,

My experience is both superglue and Mr Surfacer should work for the problem areas you are talking about. The trick is in the application. The less you get on areas that you don't want, the less sanding you will have to and the less damage created. I've had pretty good luck applying Mr. Surfacer with a fine brush just to the small gaps I wanted filled. With super glue, a fine applicator like the eye of a needle with the tip cut off can get the glue exactly where you need it. Capillary action will draw the glue through the gap and keep excess to a minimum.

I'm sure some of the forum members will have other techniques.

Good luck and welcome to the forums!

Aaron Skinner

Editor

FineScale Modeler

  • Member since
    March 2007
Help with filling, sanding, & smoothing seems
Posted by brandonlowe2 on Wednesday, March 28, 2007 8:45 AM

Hello,

I am farely new to modeling, howevever I love it, but I am ready to step my models up a level.

Right now I am working on a 1/8 scale Incredible Hulk figure from Polar Lights. I am using Mr Surfacer 1000 and superglue to fill in seems... then sand it down with a few different sand grits to get it really smooth.

The question I have is what is the best way to fill in seems and smooth the seem lines in the detailed parts of the model without losing detail... like the seem running through his hair... and the seems at the end of the fingertips, and also in areas like arm pits and such where it is hard to get the file to sand. I am trying to achieve a figure that will have no seems at all, and look like one piece. 

Any help / tips would be appreciated.

one other question... Also, I am going to make a custom base / diorama for him to be standing on instead of the one that came with him... my question is.. is model railroad grass / dirt / water materials put on foam board.... the standard railroad modeling stuff.... going to look good and natural enough for my hulk to be standing on?

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