Putting together HGUC GM Quel

Well~ That's enough talking...
Now let get into the building kit itself... ^ ^

Let's start with the arms.
There's no particular reason but I always starts from arms it seems...
Besides this is where I will use the C-joint modification method for the easy of painting.
Due to the way this components is constructed the joint parts is wedged between the arm parts.
Problem is they are different colour and one can either use the masking techniques or C-joint mod that I will be explaining at below.

The aim of C-joint mod is allowing B5 & B7 to be glued and seam line fixed WITHOUT the joint component in place first.

I personally think it's far easier to show the series of pictures than explaining in words. But I will try to put some comments where needed anyway.

First you need to remove the pin located upper side of B5, B7.
In order for the joint component to go in that pin needed to be removed completely.
In the picture I showed the chisel(?) used for this purpose. Its blade is not as sharp as Hasegawa's modeling chisel and actually works really well since you rather want to remove little bit while constantly checking than shaving off chunk thanks(?) to Hasegawa's sharp blade.

Also after two parts are glued and seam line fixed it's be a good idea to sand off the write mould.
Its perculiar shape makes the sanding bit of challange and personally I don't like the look of the kit form.
Once sanded off you can glue on any of aftermarkt optioal square duct for better appearance.

Here you can see the actual modification of the joint component where I saw off the part of circular joint hole.

As shown in the series of photos below this cutout allow the joint to be inserted afterward.

Now we shall divert our attention to the other end of joint component.
As shown in the assembly instruction the circular peg is being held between B14, B15 parts.
The easiest way to allow the joint to be inserted afterward would be.....
Yep! You guessed it. Yet another C-joint mod. ^ ^

As shown in the picture below by trimming off the circular peg you can insert it into the half circle hole.
Of course this won't give the same amount of sturdiness as the original nor you can rotate the arm 360 degree but unless you are planning to play with this kit afterward - it's far better to get Super Pro-Com or MSiA figure lineups for that in my opinion - it should be enough.
Just remember! Cut little and check before cutting some more~

Finally the shoulder armour.
This is yet another area where you may need to separate the arm unit from this if you are going to paint.
Sure you don't necessarily need to separate but since the main focus of this build up is to showcase various method I will be using slightly different method here.
In Japanese modeling magazines sometime they shows the shoulder armour with each component separated unlike the kit form. I'll attempt to do something similar.
First glue B10, B12 and fix the seam line that's very visible.
Now grab the saw knife separate the front and back sides of panels from the centre section as shown in the picture below.

Then glue the pla-plates at both side the centre section so the front and back panels can be re-attached.
Here you can make such a way that both sides simply re-attached using pins or make the centre piece movable using the hinge.