AMT Star Trek VI USS Enterprise WIP (and lots of questions)

 

My next big question...What color do I paint it?  I know its white, but is it straight white?

I have been, and continue to be a fan of Floquil (Model Master) laquers, airbrushed. I used Floquil's Reefer White for the base color of my Starfleet models, with a clear gloss over coat, and the PNT-4517 Movie Era Generic Decals, ordered from Starship Modeler. In the case of Kodiac, and all but Firestone, and Farragut, I used clear gloss as a finishing coat....I liked the way Kodiac looked with the gloss finish. 

This link is "straight from the horses mouth" It is by the artist who painted the original "Motion Picture" Enterprise. I chose not to replicate the aztec pattern on my models.

http://olsenart.com/strek.html

Ok, 8 months later and the Enterprise is built.  I have a bit of filling to do and I'm hoping I can etch back in the panel lines.  I know everyone hates them but I think a bad pattern that is smooth in random places is worse than a complete bad pattern.  My next big question...What color do I paint it?  I know its white, but is it straight white?  I use Tamiyas and I needed to know what kind of white to use, plus the other colors like duck egg blue.  I go back to school in two weeks and she WILL be done first.  I want this awesome ship on a shelf.  Thank you once again to my generous donor for this big, beautiful model and I can't wait for your responses. 

Another thing to watch out for is "nacelle droop".  Those nacelles are pretty heavy for the struts & over time they will droop outward.  I recommend reinforcing the joint & bracing the tab inside the kit, if any of it comes throught the hole.

In the Star Trek Group Build thread, Prince of styrene II mentioned the following:

The putty work I was refering to is on the saucer rim window inserts.  You can see the edges, but then again that old kit was pretty bad in some areas.  When I built mine years ago, it didn't look any better.  Those inserts have about a 2mm gap on either side!

Just thouhgt I'd kick it over here as an FYI.

Thanks for the advice.  I found the decal sets online and ebay.  Not too expensive but I'm not readyto buy them yet. 

I haven't been able to take any pictures but I did the shuttle, the saucer, the pylons and one engine nacelle.  I used Tamiya extra thin cement and learned that on these types of kits a piece doesn't always fit right into place.  The sides of the shuttle weren't quite straight but luckily the cement holds pieces together but the plastic stays gooey for a few minutes.  I was able to pry them apart and try again more carefully.  I think it looks good.  School starts on Monday so I dont know how much will get done for a while but I'll try and get some pics taken this weekend. 

On the subject of decals. I have found that many after market decals are in fact on thinner film, and will settle in to "detail" better with solvents like microsol, or solvaset.

The lesson I learned the hard way, is that decals should always be applied to a gloss finish. I personally like thinned Testors dullcoat, airbrushed, as the last step,after decal application, in painting, to get an overall consistent flat finish. When using a decal solvent, be careful! do not try to move the decal after applying the solvent....another lesson learned the hard way.

The only version that does not have this is the model sold under the Star Trek: The Motion Picture. This kit got the nickname "Smoothie" and is more valuable for that reason.

This is the kit I used to build USS Farragut NCC1702. Because Farragut had been lost, before the upgrade/replacement, I wasn't concerned about color, and used Floquil paints, airbrushed.  I did "some" color panels, but masking was, at the very least, time consuming.

I used a pair of the  ST VI kits to build USS Firestone, NCC8600, and left the aztec panels as provided. The alignment of the warp nascelles/pylons/secondary hull, is a balancing act that could be made easier by building a "jig"/ cradle, to hold the parts in alignment while the glue sets up, Balsa, or corrugated cardboard could be used for the jig, if done right, it will hold the nacelles, and the secondary hull in just the right position to allow the pylons to be attached to both. The same idea could be used to hold the primary hull in place to attach it to the above subassembly. Propping everything up with "odds and ends" works, but is not perfect by any means.....I learned that "the hard way".

Any of the liquid styrene cements can be used. I prefer MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). Either way, I find applying the liquid to the "assembled" joint, so that the liquid can flow in the joint, with a small brush, to be the best way for me.

I'm going to have to start over on the drawings for the Kodiak class Battleship's secondary hull, I can't seem to be able to find the originals I did some years ago. The primary hull will come from a USS Reliant kit.

Have fun with the build! 

The aftermarket decals are much better, You can use PNT, JT's and I think DLM all make great decals options for you.

As for the paint job, I would suggest getting the templates for Aztek Dummy.  They go along way to making the scheme look alot like what you see on the big screen.

As for the Aztek pattern cut into the kit, it's just way too deep and it is no where close to the right pattern.  The kit itself has a number of inaccuracies but it still builds into a nice kit just the way it is.

SkullGundam wrote:

I know that I could find another, but I couldn't afford it.  I have been to those websites but I will keep going back to them because they are really interesting to go through.  I saw on cult tv man that peope don't like the pattern on the hull. It is a bit...busy... lets say.  One guy actually flattened the whole thing and etched in just the important lines.  I dont think I'm going to do that.  I would still like to paint the aztec pattern though.  So heres a question, the decals that came with the kit are waterslides.  But you are suggesting the aftermarket ones.  Is there a quality difference between waterslide decals and how can I tell?

I'm pretty sure there were some inaccuracies with the kit-stock decals, which would be corrected on aftermarket decals...  Plus aftermarket decals tend to be thinner (and sometimes more amenable to decal solutions, as well) - so there may be various advantages to using aftermarket decals.  But since you're not too anxious to try to correct inaccuracies, it might not be worth worrying about.

To me, the movie Enterprise is almost entirely about the paint scheme. It's a challenging scheme to paint but if you do it right, it makes a world of difference to my mind...  It's largely about subtlety - getting as fine a masking pattern as you can manage and using it to apply just little variations in color and reflectivity...

But other recommendations - assuming you're not going for lighting or filling the nasty panel lines - take the time to do the nacelles right.  Make sure the pylons are at the proper angle, make sure the two nacelles are parallel, all that good stuff.  It's one area where a little bit of sloppy work would definitely be noticable.

I know that I could find another, but I couldn't afford it.  I have been to those websites but I will keep going back to them because they are really interesting to go through. 

I saw on cult tv man that peope don't like the pattern on the hull. It is a bit...busy... lets say.  One guy actually flattened the whole thing and etched in just the important lines.  I dont think I'm going to do that.  I would still like to paint the aztec pattern though. 

So heres a question, the decals that came with the kit are waterslides.  But you are suggesting the aftermarket ones.  Is there a quality difference between waterslide decals and how can I tell?

I would love some links.  I dont know what I could afford but I'm going to look at the decals right now.  Thanks for the help!

I would suggest visiting either Starshipmodeler.com or CultTVMan.com, either site has some great builds with some of the information you are looking for.

As for the kit itself, for an OOP kit, they are pretty easy to find, ebay is loaded with them.  It was a more sought after kit before the Polar Lights 1/350 scale version.  It's not actually that bad a kit other than Ertl's attempt at putting an Aztec pattern on the mold. The only version that does not have this is the model sold under the Star Trek: The Motion Picture.  This kit got the nickname "Smoothie" and is more valuable for that reason.  That kit also came with grain of wheat bulbs to light the saucer section and also had some prisim stickers for the warp nacelles.

So if you don't care about the kits accuracy errors it can be a fun build.  One area I would recommend investing is decals.  Getting a good set of decals can make all the difference in the world on this kit.  The kit decals do not sit well on the aztec surface, aftermarket decals with some setting solution like Micro Sol  can make all the difference in the world.  I see you are in Chicago, I think Venture Hobbies has them, if not you can get them from Starshipmodeler.com, they are based in Chicago as well.

If you decide you want after market parts they have a ton.  If you are interested I share some links.

Enjoy!

Well, you know I usually hand paint, but for something so large and flat I think an airbrush would work best.  It's just so time consuming to set it all up in my girlfriends garage, mix the paint, paint, clean the brush, poke my finger with the needle while cleaning the brush, and packing the whole set up back up.  I think I'm going to try to buy a can of air for right now.  What are your suggestions for both?  I can always learn from you.

I've never built that specific kit, but I have used Tamiya liquid cement on other AMT kits w/out any problems. I think you should be fine there.

Regarding paints: do you want to airbrush it, or hand paint it?