X-wing fighter weathering experiment...

Looks good, especially for the experimental intent you mentioned.  Even the best of us has to practice and test new products since they can behave differently from what we're used to.

I've only recently started experimenting with weathering and washes, myself.  As it is, the main methods I've used to date are sludge wash and the weathering powders from Tamiya.  I've been reluctant to try some of the more common methods because of past experiments going bad, but I've also reached the point where I need to do more testing.  It gets pretty boring to have all the ships and mecha with the "showroom floor" pristine look.

Looks good to me.I wouldn't mess with it any further.

hey, great job on the weathering. when it comes to x-wings, there is no such thing as too much weathering. the Rebels would use them until they fell apart, then repaired them and sent them right back out again.

i'm working on a similar project, Finemold's 1/72nd scale X-wing. any tips?

Just one-if you go to starshipmodeler.com , click on "hardware references" & then "Star Wars"-there's a bunch of photos of one of the original large scale filming models (Red 3) while on display at the Smithsonian.  This would be very helpful when starting out the model.  There are some very good detail shots of the forward cockpit "glareshield" area (above & forward of the instrument panel), if you're into the cockpit detail thing.  Also, the filming models all seem to have perfectly clear canopies, but the full size ships in the movies appear to have very darkly tinted canopies.  Your choice on that one.

thanks. look foreward to more pics of your's.

What new weathering products are you referring to? Looks great BTW, I'm finishing up a FM Tie Fighter, applied a wash, and am considering whether it could use a little more weathering.

a6m5zerosen

Just one-if you go to starshipmodeler.com , click on "hardware references" & then "Star Wars"-there's a bunch of photos of one of the original large scale filming models (Red 3) while on display at the Smithsonian.  This would be very helpful when starting out the model.  There are some very good detail shots of the forward cockpit "glareshield" area (above & forward of the instrument panel), if you're into the cockpit detail thing.  Also, the filming models all seem to have perfectly clear canopies, but the full size ships in the movies appear to have very darkly tinted canopies.  Your choice on that one.

Actually the forward panels on all the original ILM models are flat black. These didn't have canopies on them,but rather they were gel films taped to the outside of the canopy frame with the edges painted to match the colour of the canopy frame itself.  These were all later removed to keep the light glare from reflecting the camera crew. However,you can see Red 2 reflect light from the front  in one of the frames when the Rouge group was beginning its' attack on the Death Star.

The Red 3 you see in the Smithsonian is the four foot X-wing that was a pet project,but it was never seen in the original Return of the Jedi movie. This was made by Mike Fulmar,and Ira Keeler. The original ILM models of the seventies were 19" 1/2 inches long. This is the same length as the Maxi-Brute model rocket prototype which was cast from the same form that these smaller models originally were.

 

Here's a photo of Red 2 that was a screen capture that has been altered for a magazine.  This is a very closeup of the canopy area. Here you can see the film gel that was used to cover the cockpit. This was to simulate glass in the canopy frame.

I'm using a ready made wash called "The Detailer" I found at my local hobbyshop, which is available in several colors, and some pastel powders made by Tamiya for armor models.  The wash takes some practice to get right-I've found that adding a tiny (and I do mean tiny) amount of dish soap greatly improves things. It must be sealed with clear flat when you're done.  It comes in little bottle similar to typing correction fluid bottles-the black, grey, & rust are great.  Pay attention to the lettering on the bottle-do not assume that the color of the lettering is the color of the wash.  (Ask me how I know this...).