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Here are the AT-ST and AT-AT walkers that I completed a little while ago. These are both OOB. Used Doc O'Briens weathering pigments and tried chipping on the AT-ST, both a first for me. Hope you guys like the results.
Please any comments are appreciated.
-Stephen
Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger
I really like 'em both! Weathering looks really good. I finished up the AT-AT not long ago and I've been looking for the AT-ST but I've not been able to find one. How did you secure one?
Jon
My Blog: The Combat Workshop
Oddmanrush,
Thanks for looking in and the compliments. I got them both off of E-bay, they usually have a good supply just keep an eye on the shipping charges.
Stephen, thanks for the tip. I thought I looked there before and had no luck. I just looked there now and found a handful of the AMT kits! Sorry if you mentioned it already but is the kit you built AMT's?
Really like what you did
The weathering looks good to me
Really clean build style, I like. Really liked the poses, gave both vehicles a look of a predator and aggression @ same time. Paint and weathering is great.. Pre, post shading, base color, pigments, washes, filters, ink washes and dry brushing brings these, what once were considered toys to life. I look forward to more from you. GM
/]
Hi Jon,
Yes, both kits are AMT. Hope you have good luck in your bidding!
Slw45, Thanks for looking in.
Gunpla Master, I'm glad you liked them, thanks for the comments!
I love a walker!
want more inspiration and some good old fashioned nose art ideas?
check out the Imperial Miliitary Personell Stories videos, chapter 2
http://impstherelentless.com/tek9.asp?pg=chapter2
If you aren't having fun, you're doing it wrong! Build to please yourself and they will flame you every time!
Hell yeah we like 'em!
They look great.
oddmanrush I really like 'em both! Weathering looks really good. I finished up the AT-AT not long ago and I've been looking for the AT-ST but I've not been able to find one. How did you secure one?
STAR WARS MPC should work for older kits.
Ti4019, thanks for looking, I'll have to look at that link at home. Unfortunately the filters at work won't allow that.
TD4438, Glad you like them!
Very nice. I like the way the powders add variation to the base color, especially on that big fella.
I like 'em.....Great work.....
Cosmic J and Guney- Thanks for the compliments and for looking in.
Guys is there any thing where I could improve, I know there are some problems but any thing that stands out that I could work on with my next project.
NucMedTech Guys is there any thing where I could improve, I know there are some problems but any thing that stands out that I could work on with my next project.
The only thing that jumps out at me would be some seams. Mainly I see it on the side shot of the AT ST. I have one of these too, and since it's a snap-together, the fit is attrocious! A bit more time in cleaning up those seams would make the finished product look 10x better! It's a great job painting and weathering, so it deserves a bit more time in prep work.
That's my advice.
Chris
A veteran is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including my life."
Killjoy-Thanks for looking, the seams were a bit of a pain. That is one of my problem areas trying to fill seams. I use squadron white putty or CA glue for the seams. Thought this would be easier since they were mostly flat staight areas. You should see my attempts at wing joints on airplanes. But i will work more to get those seams filled correctly.
I have gotten away from squadron or any other modeling putty as it is some rediculously toxic stuff! I use a two step process.
After sanding the area as smooth and flush as I can between the two pieces being joined, I fill the gap with Dap spackling compound. Let it dry a few hours to overnight depending on the size of the gap and the temp in your work area. Sand this flush (mand does it sand easily compared to CA!) I actually don't worry about going a little recessed at this point.
Next I brush some Mr. Surfacer 500 over the area, letting it 'pool' up a bit so there is a slightly raised bead. Once this dries, I sand with 400 grit, then 600, then 800 grit sandpaper. Once I prime the area, you can not tell it was ever there!
Keep working on it, everyone has their own technique and or varients thereof. Oh yeah, needle files are your friend!
NucMedTech Cosmic J and Guney- Thanks for the compliments and for looking in. Guys is there any thing where I could improve, I know there are some problems but any thing that stands out that I could work on with my next project. -Stephen
Well, if I HAD to make a suggestion, I would recommend a pin wash around the raised details, before applying weathering powders. Might make then stand out a little better. I don't think it's absolutely necessary for these kits though, because of their size.
Either way, they look great.
Very good job on the weathering, but perhaps a light wash with colour would be a good idea in some areas,
although if your happy with the result.....leave it as it is !
its also nice to see the Walkers with lighter weathering, I have seen to many of these models with heavy weathering and can make it look unrealistic.
another tip, something I use on armour and Aircraft is "Childrens Poster Paint" it comes in Powder form and you mix water with it to turn it into paint.
Its in POWDER form where it comes into its own. use it like pastel dust, I use a small brush with the Bristles cut down short and then pick up the powder with the brush and scrub into the desired Area, and as its powder you can shade with it, or make it darker by just applying more, or add Talc powder to make it a lighter shade, more grey.
I have it in Black, Brown and Green and its very usefull for weathering.
Good job on the models.
All the best,
Barry.
Excellent! And I was just watching ESB last night so.... yeah, looks great! I especialy like the color modulation throughout. Breaks up that, "Star-Destroyer-Gray" that the Imps seem to love. Did you drybrush it at all? I can't tell. Maybe with some light gray around edges and details. I fail at the art of drybrushing, but the results are excellent when done right.
@killjoy: Squadron putty is toxic? I think it might have a mild acetone base but still... and if you want toxic, I use Bondo spot and glazing putty! I do it in my spraybooth though to suck out fumes. The nice thing about bondo is it will sand away in a hurry with low-grit sandpaper, but smooths out nicely with high. Then use acetone based nail-polish remover to wipe away excess. Squadron putty reacts too fast to nail-polish remover. With bondo it gets removed a small layer at a time, allowing you to remove excess without making a dent in your seam.
Boba Fett @killjoy: Squadron putty is toxic? I think it might have a mild acetone base but still... and if you want toxic, I use Bondo spot and glazing putty!
@killjoy: Squadron putty is toxic? I think it might have a mild acetone base but still... and if you want toxic, I use Bondo spot and glazing putty!
From the squadron MSDS:
Toluene
Xylene
Methyl ethyl ketone
Toxic enough for you?
It probably depends on the amount and your exposure to it though. Sure, the chemicals are very harmful, but sometimes it's just tiny amounts, and you use the stuff so infrequently. But hey, to each his own. If that's what your comfortable with, then it works for you.
Guys,
Thanks for the feed back a lot of tips that'll help me out. These had no dry brushing and a general wash in some areas but no pin wash was done. Things to try on the next project.
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