Heya, Folks,
Thanks a bunch! I'm overwhelmed and appreciate the positive feedback... High praise coming from you folks --- I recognize names and work from this site, SM, the MK site, etc.
I'm pretty much a "ham and egger" (as Rocky Balboa once said) when it comes to it all...I'm never really scientific about modeling (no left brain here!) I just sorta jump right in and go for it! I'm also lucky enough to have a great club, the Los Angeles Miniaturists, where i get to hang with and learn from some of the best!
Here's a link to some of my other work, most of which you can see is, in progress --- whenever I hit the paint stage, things tend to grind to halt for me... Only because I never have the energy to airbrush at ten or eleven at night.
http://www.laminiaturists.com/john_brosnan.htm
Back to the Lunadiver... Yeah, the pictures were something I literally shot quickly in a couple of free minutes --- really had no intention of posting them, but Gunpla M. is force ta be reckoned with! Again, I'll shoot better detailed pictures where the contrast is lower and you can see the detail, etc.,
Gunpla is right about the metallics... After priming with Tamiya surface primer, I hit the body with Alclad gloss black base --- the problem with this is: IT NEVER DRIES! Or at least, it "dries" sticky, like taffy, which is not conducive to handling the model... Despite the great gantry-type stand (which doubles as a paint stand), I still ended up with a fingerprint on the model (kind of like a C.S.I. episode) which I need to take care of. Arg!
Next I added the contrast/striping/overspray with various shades Gunze metallics, which are great and act to seal the sticky Alclad black base... Also added some Alclad clear Sepia and Blue to try and add interest. Also added some Model Master and Alclad Jet Exhaust to simulate overheated panels (especially on the two panels on the sides --- I am trying to make it look like an F-100 where the panels routinely overheat and discolor --- still not there yet)...
Might try to paint the gantry safety yellow after trying out the salt method to allow the metalics to poke through. Given it'll be acrylic yellow over the metallics, I might also try experimenting with windex to pick away at the paint. Will try varying shades of faded, discolored yellow as well.
Once I have the fingerprint removed I'll touch up the black and metallics and go to work with pigments... Was also thinking of clear coating and then doing some oil weathering Also gotta add more heat damage to engine bells --- what I did just disappeared...
I can see why the price is coming down on the kit --- the original $120.00 price tag was a lot to ask for the amount of work you had to put into the kit... I think the design looks cool and truly unique when done, but marone-a-mi! what a road ta get there (started this bugger in November and still working on it!) If you can get it for "cheap" and you're cool with the extra work, go for it! A movie is done and over in two hours --- your time and enjoyment on this project will be a LOT longer, I can guarantee that! ;)
Right now I've got a fair amount of projects in various states: started the Snake Eye for the GB --- flies together! Just working on the seams... Got a Trumpeter LCAC, Hobby Boss AAVP-7 I've barely started, got the Bandai Hardgraph M61A5 tank (see link above) to mask, along with the rest of the kits in that line, got a Dust Models Gunther to re-paint, a resin Luther, Tamiya Challenger 2, oh and a Cyber Hobby USS Independence (the new, Darth Vader-looking ship) to finish as a belated birthday present... And of course, NO TIME to work on any of the above! :) Too many kits, too little time!
Thanks again for all of your kind words and feedback! I hope to have more for you soon!!
Regards and Aloha,
Johnny B.