Phillip1,

I like it.  Did the engine caps come already painted, or did you do that color scheme yourself?

I've always wondered about "weathering" a starship, what was your plan of why the ship would get that dust where it did?

Paul

Oh, hellyeah. Gritty enough to look in service and give mass to the scale yet not so dirty that it crosses into the SW universe.

I consider that very nicely done.

That is possibly, the best Enterprise I have ever seen.

Your detailing is perfect. If it's not canon it should be. It all "fits" with what the ship should be.

Well done.

Howdy Phillip 1, as good of job as you did on this model have you thought of doing the cut-away and detailing the part of the interior that can be seen? It appears you could do way better than what the kit supplied! Magoo

Thanks for the compliments.  They are appreciated.

Paul-Concerning the weathering, I was just trying to duplicate what I had seen in photos of the 11ft. miniature.  My understanding is that for the 1st and 2nd Pilot the ship's finish was "clean", but it was weathered before regular season shooting began.  This weathering included the "brownish rust ring"  along the front of the saucer section.  You might not be able to see it on film, but it was there.  Below are two photos taken of the Enterprise in December 1991 after Ed Miarecki received it from the Smithsonian Institute to be refurbished.  When he was given the contract he was given severals rules to follow.  One of the rules was that under no circumstances was anyone allowed to mess with the top of the saucer section, as it was the only part of the model that was still in original condition when the series ended in 1969.  In additon to the weathering, it is interesting to note that the pencil grid lines are also very noticable.  That is just what I have read, but I know there are other people that are alot more knowledgeable than me about this subject.  To be honest I probably used less weathering on my model than was on the 11ft. miniature.  The Creature Arts nacelle caps came crystal clear and were really nice.  I sprayed flat yellow in the inside middle area, and then flat red around the edges.  I know it is not what the lighting effect looks like, but it addes dramatic color and was easy to do.

A. Magoo-I think this model is too small to do as a cutaway.  It would really be difficult to show good detail in this scale.  Although I really like cutaway models I am not the one for the project you suggest.

Thanks-Phillip1

That is one nice starship. It really looks the part.

-Stephen

Really sharp work! Love the subtle pre-shading

Cliff

Gerry

That is possibly, the best Enterprise I have ever seen.

Your detailing is perfect. If it's not canon it should be. It all "fits" with what the ship should be.

Well done.

Phillip1 is correct. 22" is too small for a cut-away. I know, I have the cut-away and really all you can see is that there are decks...not what's in them.

But the 1/350 Enterprise is coming out so if anyone wanted to scratch build a cutaway, that'd be the ship to do it with.

I agree, the Round2 1/350 Enterprise will be the one to add an interior to (if you can do it wthout going blind).  When I build my Round2 Enterprise I am looking forward to adding rotating-lights to the front nacelles (as long as someone can provide a simple assemly for it).

Phillip1

nice loved the pics

Ron

Outstanding work....you are an artist!!!

I'd love to do the 350 Enterprise, but I just don't have room to put it anywhere.

And I wouldn't want to do it just to turn around and get rid of it.

Beautiful!  Thank you for sharing.

I don't want to beat a dead horse...but yesterday's weather permitted me to get a some good photos of the entire model, which can be difficult because of the size and shape.  So I share them with you.

Phillip1

Fabulous Work!  How did you do the grid lines?

Again great job!

In the new pics your grid lines have gone, angle and light I guess.

And I love the ambre effect on your nacelle caps. Very effective!

Gerry-The panel lines are still there, but they are harder to see from a distance and at the angles the pictures were taken.

justimagine-Concerning adding the panel lines, first a paper gridline template was sized up on a copier to match the model's saucer diameter (see photo below).  The spacing between each vertical line was determined by dividing the saucer diameter by the number of vertical grid lines, then using a pencil to mark each location.  The same steps were done around the bridge section.  Then a 1/4" wide strip of masking tape was laid between the two pencil marks.  Lines were then drawn on with a mechanical pencil.  A school compass was used to draw the circular lines.  The key for doing this was making sure the anchor hole was located in the exact center of the upper saucer section.  After this was done I thought the lines were too dark, so I pressed masking tape on the lines.  Doing this made the grid lines very faint and finally achieved the effect I wanted.  These steps may sound difficult, but they were really more tedious than hard.  Also using a pencil gave the flexibility of being able to erase minor mistakes.

Thanks

Phillp1