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Moebius Battlestar Columbia Lighted model

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  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by Warmuncher on Tuesday, October 11, 2011 9:30 AM

I am going to take a final set of pictures before I send it off to my client.  Is there a specific part of the ship or a specific angle that you want to see?  The photos were going to be quick and dirty for my own personal build archives.  However, I could be talked into a few more nice shots in my photo box.  I don't have a lot of room in my photo box for this guy so I am a bit limited with what I can and cannot do.

You can find me on Photobucket under Warmuncher

Proud Member of Southern Maine Scale Modelers, IPMS

  • Member since
    March 2006
Posted by TD4438 on Monday, October 10, 2011 6:14 PM

Oh dude!

That is just beautiful!

More pics please!

  • Member since
    March 2011
Posted by gonavycv64 on Monday, October 10, 2011 6:11 PM

that is very sweet looking

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by Warmuncher on Monday, October 10, 2011 3:20 PM

Great information Sprue and Chuck.   Thank you.  I'll be sure to look it all over.

You can find me on Photobucket under Warmuncher

Proud Member of Southern Maine Scale Modelers, IPMS

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Saturday, October 8, 2011 2:54 PM

Beautiful model, Warmuncher.  Perhaps the following info will be helpful to those of you planning to home-brew your own circuits:

Electrical Engineering 101:

A current limiting resistor is required to be wired in series with each LED.  If you don't use one, you will instantly burn out the LED as well as short-circuit your power supply.  To calculate the value of this current limiting resistor, you need to know the rated current of the LED you are using, it's usually on the package.

 Then simply use Ohm's Law:

E=IR

Where E is voltage of your source

I is the current rating in amps of your LED (if given in milliamps, divide by 1000 to get amps)

and R is the value of the resistor in Ohms.

Rearranging Ohm's law to find resistance, the formula is

R= E / I

(I have found that for most applications, the resistance value works out to be about 470 ohms.)

For the POWER RATING of the resistor, usually 1/2 watt is way more than enough.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Saturday, October 8, 2011 2:44 PM

oh, ok. I heard that is better so you can have resistors in there to avoid burning up LEDs. 

This is a good link here:

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm

this part of that page refers to series vs. parallel:

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm#series

I think your circuit is parallel the way you bundled the pos+ then the neg- and powered directly

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by Warmuncher on Saturday, October 8, 2011 2:01 PM

Using a circuit board is probably the really smart way to go.  However, I am pretty illiterate in regards to that sort of thing so I took the dirty way out.  I just bundled all of the Red wires together and did the same with the Black wire ends.  Hooked up power and presto, lights.  I do plan on learning a bit about basic electricity in hopes of making my next project more efficient.  If you find anything interesting in your research please share.

You can find me on Photobucket under Warmuncher

Proud Member of Southern Maine Scale Modelers, IPMS

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Saturday, October 8, 2011 1:05 PM

yeah, I don't know enough about it to solder my own boards together either. I'll check out the web link you mentioned. Thanks! 

 

 

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by Warmuncher on Saturday, October 8, 2011 12:29 PM

Thank you for all of your compliments.

I didn't use any kit.  I purchased a bunch of LEDs/Resisters from a company called ModelTrainSoftware.com.  They are a bit on the expensive side however they take care of the resister soldering, wiring, and shrink rapping for you.  However, using a lot of these for a single kit will kill your power source due to all of the resisters in your circuit.  I don't know enough yet about circuits, current, and how to calculate the best solution so went with the easy solution.  I did find two kits out there.  One by MadMan Lighting which gives you all of the lights, Fiber Optics, etc.  There is a smaller kit for another manufacture however thier name escapes me at this time.  I am building a second Battlestar with even more lighting so these kits are simply inadequite for my purposes.  My current Power Supply is a 9V battery.  But it wouldn't take much to adapt this kit to a 9V wall adapter. 

 

You can find me on Photobucket under Warmuncher

Proud Member of Southern Maine Scale Modelers, IPMS

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Buffalo, NY
Posted by macattack80 on Friday, October 7, 2011 10:05 PM

That is awesome!  Nice work. 

Kevin

[

 

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Friday, October 7, 2011 10:00 PM

Yes Cool I always wanted to light my models for effects like this 

 

What type of lighting kit did you use? Did you scratch build the lighting? LED or mono filament? Power supply needed? I know a lot of questions but this is an interesting project you done 

 

 

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Central IL
Posted by SLW 45 on Friday, October 7, 2011 6:28 PM

That's simply gorgeous 

                 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Edmonton, Alberta
Posted by Griffin on Friday, October 7, 2011 4:37 PM

She's beautiful. It's weird seeing one that isn't all beat up. Yes

  • Member since
    October 2010
Moebius Battlestar Columbia Lighted model
Posted by Warmuncher on Friday, October 7, 2011 4:24 PM

Hi all,

This is my first commision "model" commision work as well as my first lighted model.  This is also the first piece that I've posted on these forums.  I generally work on custom Sci-Fi N-Scale robot models like the one I use to represent me on these forums.  I am posting this model more for feedback than anything else. 

Some issues are glaring such as ligh bleeding between the seams in a few places, the very light contrast between the ribs and the panels, and the light placement.  For the most part I am very pleased with how this model turned out.  I have a second one on the bench.  I want that one to turn out even better than this one.  So any feedback you guys can offer will be appreciated. 

You can find me on Photobucket under Warmuncher

Proud Member of Southern Maine Scale Modelers, IPMS

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