Wrath of Kahn Enterprise help

Geof

Hard to tell from the pic, but if you have painted your model you must remove all of the paint prior to cementing. All the way down to the plastic. 

The translucence allowing light from the openings in the saucer means there's no paint ( except for the phasers, etc. ), but any clear coat for the decals may be another issue.  If you used Testors, DO NOT use laquer thinner to try ans strip any clear coating in the joint areas.  It will melt that plastic in a way that makes your liquid cement look like water.

I haven't worked on an AMT "roughie" like this kit for a while, but isn't the neck's side of the joint missing the guide tabs?  I see the pin on the aft part of the top, but if the tabs were removed with the intent of making the saucer fit more easily then a lot of the surface you'd need to let the weld take place would be gone. If that's the case, the kit can still be finished, but it'll take a little bit of work and a trip to the LHS for some supplies.

Redruum

Rob Gronovius:

I thought the 1701-A Enterprise debuted at the end of Star Trek IV A Voyage Home. The Wrath of Khan Enterprise would have been NCC-1701 "No Bloody A..."

 

 

Great fine Rob.  Im a bit embarassed as a self proclaimed Guru of Star Trek.  I wonder if my model kit is the only model kit that came with a 1701-A decal for this particular limited edition scale.  From what I can see on the internet, it appears so.  Does that make it strangely unique?

Unsure about it being unique. It's been a pet peeve of mine when "they" always tend refer to the refit Enterprise automatically as NCC-1701-A while the original refit 1701 actually had more screen time than the -A. The original had all of I, II & III where it self-destructed. The -A only had about 5 minutes in IV, and all of V & VI.

STVII debuted the -B and the end of the -D.

Hard to tell from the pic, but if you have painted your model you must remove all of the paint prior to cementing. All the way down to the plastic. I am with others and use welding cements too. I primarily use Testors liquid actually with overall excellent results, but I also use others as well as "super glue" too. The super glues are best to use the model versions as they have different thinknesses for given applications. Also, when you get good at it, you can use a slightly over glued seam to fill any gaps and save on putty/sanding time finalizing seams.

Rob Gronovius

I thought the 1701-A Enterprise debuted at the end of Star Trek IV A Voyage Home. The Wrath of Khan Enterprise would have been NCC-1701 "No Bloody A..."

Great fine Rob.  Im a bit embarassed as a self proclaimed Guru of Star Trek.  I wonder if my model kit is the only model kit that came with a 1701-A decal for this particular limited edition scale.  From what I can see on the internet, it appears so.  Does that make it strangely unique?

Rob Gronovius

I thought the 1701-A Enterprise debuted at the end of Star Trek IV A Voyage Home. The Wrath of Khan Enterprise would have been NCC-1701 "No Bloody A..."

It did... She was heavily damaged in Wrath of Khan and self destructed in Search for Spock.

And I would echo the suggestions above. Invert the saucher/primary hull to glue on the secondary hull. Let gravity work with you. Use one of the "hot" liquid cements like Tenax, Pro-weld, or Plastruct. They work fast and "weld" the parts together, but hold them for at least a minute or two to let the bonding set.

I thought the 1701-A Enterprise debuted at the end of Star Trek IV A Voyage Home. The Wrath of Khan Enterprise would have been NCC-1701 "No Bloody A..."

Most modeling glue is hot and causes the plastic to MELT and then dry together in one piece.  Your using a thin cement which is mostly used, atleast by me, for small parts.  I suggest getting something like this  Its what I use.  http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/TES00003501/product.php?s=4&t=2&u=0&pg=1&ppp=200&sb=stocknumber&so=a&e=0

Also when connecting something like that I would suggest one main thing.  Turn the saucer upside down.  Place the bottom into position then find a book or two that fit under it so it will hold in that position. 

Glue it then HOLD IT THERE for a few minutes before letting it to dry.  Sometimes the issue is a SMALL contact area and therefore requires holding for the glue to bond at a specific spot and not slide all over.

Welcome aboard, Redruum. Hope you enjoy your time on the forums.

I tend to use "welding" type cements like Tenax or Micro-Mark "Same Stuff" for these kind of bonds. It wicks into the seams and actually melts the plastic and fuses it together, but has enough working time to allow  assemblies to be trued up and properly aligned.

Since you mentioned super glue and the Tamiya cement together, I'll go for the obvious, with no insult intended if it's too obvious---if you tried the super glue first, you've got to make sure all of it is removed from the surfaces you're trying to cement, because the cement won't penetrate the CA.

If all else fails, there's always epoxy.

Best of luck.

Greg

some 5 minute epoxy maybe?