Gundam paint techniques

QUOTE: Originally posted by Doom_Giver I just got a Gundam Zaku F1 master grade the other day,, and have a few questions to ask about painting the parts.

I think you will enjoy the MG Kits.

QUOTE: Since the inside black parts are only going to be partially visible, should I bother painting them the same shade of gray

I would paint them in the same gray and a bit of a wash/drybrushing.

QUOTE: The color scheme of this gundam is light green (arms, legs, head) and dark green (body, lower skirt armor). In order to pre-shade these parts as shown in the presentation pictures, should I use dark->very dark green or black as the base color for the pre-shade

Never done a pre-shade, but I hardly ever use black for shading or for drawing panel lines. IMO, use the same gray as in the interior.

Here is a link to a presahde done on a Gundam kit:
http://members.lycos.co.uk/dougi3000/techniques/preshade.htm
He refers to the Max Technique, by whom I think he means Max Watanabe.
The guy bassically wrote the book on finishing Gundam Models.

QUOTE: Additionally..... Should I bother with seam repair, since the seams can pass as panel/assembled part Or should I take the normal aircraft model approach and use squardon to fill the gap

Most of the MG kits are split along panel lines as most of the covers are removeable, so it is really up to you.

Best book for starting Gundam Modelers are released by Hobby Japan, they range from small booklets (500yen) to large B4 Books (1.600yen).
The smaller booklets are collections of techniques published in Hobby Japan the bigger books often specialise on a particualr series or set of kits.

The Max Watanabe Modeling book also shows a lot of good stuff for Gundam kits.

I forgot to ask, but is enamel reccomended for these models, or are acrylics more effective?
-And-
Like regular (airplane) models, should I use a finish of "Future" after the base coat of paint is applied?
-primer
-paint
-future
-weather (water color, or turp/oil? which is better)
-future
--------------------
Are the previous steps neccisary/reccomended for Gundam models?

QUOTE: Originally posted by Doom_Giver I forgot to ask, but is enamel reccomended for these models, or are acrylics more effective?

Either one should do. Most peole over here use Gunze as they have a colour range for most Gundam and other Anime Models.

QUOTE: -And- Like regular (airplane) models, should I use a finish of "Future" after the base coat of paint is applied? -primer -paint -future -weather (water color, or turp/oil? which is better) -future

Personally, I wouldn't use gloss coats on a Mecha kit they are supposed to be flat coloured. But than I have NEVER useds Future, so far any attemtps of getting hold of it here have failed.

QUOTE: Are the previous steps neccisary/reccomended for Gundam models?

Those are the recommended steps for ANY Models as far as I am concerned.
I even put topcoats between paint layers depending on the kit.

what is more effective on gundam models, watercolor washes, or turpenol/oil washes?
Gunze...acrylic or enamel? (not familiar with gunze....)
Also, I'm extremely eager to begin my model, as I will get the paint/air can(compressor has to wait....moving to a new location). Is it ok to begin assembling the model, glueing only the inner parts(black) and assembling the whole model, perhaps save the head and other hard to de-assemle parts? Will it be too much of a hassle to de-assemble in the long run?

QUOTE: Originally posted by Doom_Giver what is more effective on gundam models, watercolor washes, or turpenol/oil washes? Gunze...acrylic or enamel? (not familiar with gunze....)

I use Gunze acyrlics, but their enamels are also good.
For washes I either use water or Games Workshop oils.
FYI, Gunze also makes a weatehring set for standard kits and there is a Gundam marker set out too.

QUOTE: Also, I'm extremely eager to begin my model, as I will get the paint/air can(compressor has to wait....moving to a new location). Is it ok to begin assembling the model, glueing only the inner parts(black) and assembling the whole model, perhaps save the head and other hard to de-assemle parts? Will it be too much of a hassle to de-assemble in the long run?

The Kits are basscially snap-together no glue needed, screw-driver recommended.
Be warned some parts snap apart easy, others will need to be pried apart(Head).
You can start to do some sub-assemblies like the internal skeleton, but be warned that the poly-caps might be affected by your thinner/colour.

Colouring Instructions are for the Gunze colour range, you will need to mix your own colours. Or there are pre-mixed colour sets for Gundam Kits out too.

How will they be affected? will they melt?

QUOTE: Originally posted by Doom_Giver How will they be affected? will they melt?

Yes, they can melt over time.

You will see that in most cases where poly-caps are used you can mask them easily with Tamiya or similar masking tape.

I prefer the early Gundam kits prior to the snap-together/poly-cap phase, on some kits the poly-caps form a weak joints(shoulder joints) and you might find limbs dropping off or the limb not holding the pose correctly when put into a Dio.

Remedies for all these points are given in Hobby Japan and the "How to do ..." books, they will also show you how to modify a Kit so that It can be taken apart for transport and similar too.

I think it will be better if you ask specific questions during the build, as I can tahn check my library for a fix/technique to that specific area..

I build lots of Gundams too but though i am not nearly the expert as MMF I must point out that Hobby Japan is in Japanese [all the issues I have ever seen and own are]. But still I have a copy of Hobby Japan that is at least ten years old and I still refer to it for info and I can't even read Japanese! That shows that is still an excellent resource due to the illustrations alone. There are often pics of the modeling products which are being used in the photos. I haven't had the oportunity to build a Master Grade yet. I have only gone as far as High Grade thus far...

P.S. Being a Japanese publication it must be read from "back to front" as oposed to "front to back" like English printed publications. Maybe this info willl make it a little easier for the transition to the wonderful world of anime modeling!

While most of the Books on the following list are in japanese only, they like Hobby Japan are easily followed by non-japanese speakers:

Max Watanabe - I love Gunpla Artbook:
http://www.animecastle.com/ACISBN4-89425-283-X.html

Nomo-Ken (highly recommended/more generic):
http://www.hlj.com/cgi-perl/hljpage.cgi?HBJ25301
This book also covers decal making and mold making and casting.

Gunpla 500Yen Booklet (2 versions):


The little 500Yen book is very good and If you can't find it let me know and I can try to get you a copy.

All of those books cover basic tools and paints, standard techniques, advanced techniques, customising, aurbrushing and tool maintenance.

I have one last question regarding the "future" and other final coats...
in this picture, the paint seems to be reflecting some light, and is somewhat shiny...
http://www.tj-grosnet.com/photos/mg_zeon/zaku_F2_2.jpg
also, the weathering (black panel lines) seem to be shining as well...this couldn't be without a final gloss coat, could it? (the camera flash isn't powerful)
Lastly, is it just me, or does the torso cable seem a lighter gray than the chest (cockpit) and the feet (arch)?

Hi Doom Giver.. it's good to see another modeler seduced by MG kits. I'd recommend that you give the model a flat fnish.. .why? Because as I see it, the robot is just like an artillery unit of the future... you don't see tanks and apc's with gloss finishes right?

I've achieved excellent results just building it as an armour kit. Please do repair the seams, altho MG kits have them placed in places where most of the time they can pass as a panel line, or are just non existant (beutiful engineering!) sometimes they just make the kit look bad, too toyish.

Check this link for images of models so you can see what is done, what is not done, etc.

www.mechavault.com (you have to register, but it's free)

I actually stopped buying the monthly mags some time ago,
take up too much shelf-space and too little contents that I like.

whenever i built gundams i just painted it in flat tones and then built it and went back with a miro-tip pen and went through all the panel lines to make it look like it did on the box.

I'd recommend taking the Gundam kits just as seriously as other kits. I take them very seriously (I usually scratch build or modify most of the parts that I end up using). The thing that attracts me most to them is the freedom that I can use. You see, they're not real and we don't have the technology to come close to making one, so as a modeller you can make what ever you want however you want (but please try to keep it within the bounds of semi-realism). Here are some more useful links for you:
Here's a site with some scans from Hobby Japan and Dengeki Hobby Magazines- very helpful and cool:
http://gan.20m.com/
Here's a good monthly gundam competition site (note, there are no prizes other than braging rights):
http://www.cybermodelcomp.com/
This guy does some of the most extreme Gundam scratch building I've ever seen (he enters most of his works in a similar gundam competition in Japan):
http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~MOKI/index.htm
But this is by far the best link of them all (it even has a huge links section):
http://www.childofmecha.com/

Oh yeah, did you get the Zaku II F/J or the Zaku II F2 or did you mean the Zaku I ? I made a resin conversion (scratch built) for my Zaku II F2 to make it more along my ideas and the anime proportions. You can see it (along with some of my other works) here:
http://home.jam.rr.com/jhaltom/

sorry bout that, I meant Zaku F2.
More about pre-shading, should I use little paint when painting over the darkend edges? Should I worry about over powering the darkend parts with the cover paint?
Does Model Master make a flat clear coat (I'm having one helluva time trying to find clear coats)?
In my previous attempts using putty (squadron green), I can't seem to paint over the green sanded putty, as it always shows through. Any suggestions? (I was using MM's enamels, white)
What is better for preshading, acryls or enams? and is floquil a good acryl? Or is tamiya bettER?
THank You for your continual interest in this post!
; )

I always prime my kits regardless of the material or what the colour of the kit is.

Normally I use a white primer, this helps to bring the colours out.

In addition to a uniform colour it will also give the kit a uniform surface texture to which paint sticks better.

Over to someone else.

When you say primer, does that refer to any kind of white paint? (model masters white enamels?)

-Also-

Can anyone tell me a reputable site that sells clear coat flats, as I am having a hard time finding one at my local hobbie shops ( live in SF, CA).

Your input would be appreciated.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Doom_Giver When you say primer, does that refer to any kind of white paint? (model masters white enamels?)

No, I am talking primer, you can get it from the automotive stores or pretty much any model paint manufacturer like Tamiya, Gunze, etc.
Usually comes in Cans but a few also sell it bottled.

QUOTE: Can anyone tell me a reputable site that sells clear coat flats, as I am having a hard time finding one at my local hobbie shops ( live in SF, CA).

Most reputable online stores should sell it, again they are made by a variety of companies, here as in primers I prefer the Gunze range.

For japanese goods and kits I can always recommend the following 2 sites:
Rainbow 10
&
Hobby Link Japan

Both are very good, carry a large range and have a good reputation worldwide.
FYI, both of those are in Japan.