Man that is sweet.I have the 1/350 Refit in the stash and hope to light it up like this.

I tried the Refit. Kicked my butt. But as a first light project perhaps it was just too much. I got it all sealed up when half the lights stopped working in the saucer section. It's still sitting in that condition in a box in the closet. Has for 2 years. Not gonna finish it but don't have the heart to toss it.

But I will say the light kit from polar lights was a lot easier to do on the TOS 350. Though if you do the weathering decals here's a tip - Apply to the saucer before you attach the bridge. Or trim around the bridge when you apply. I put them on aligned with the bridge module and well, the fit isn't good. But despite the flaws, I do like how it turned out overall.

Beautiful work on the real Enterprise* Gerry! Love the shading and the lights look terrific!

*Went to see the new Abrams movie this weekend- stupidest movie I've seen in years.....

Wow, Gerry, that's sweet!

Very nice work!!!  I have not had the chance to build this one yet. Did you use the aftermarket kits for the lights or did you did you light it yourself?  Either way it looks good.  Thanks for sharing.

Light kit from Polar Lights.

It was pretty darn easy to use and add lights with that.

After that I used VooDooFX for my WAr of the Worlds martian war machine

and also I am currently using VooDooFX to do the flying sub.  I'm not brilliant

when it comes to eclectricity things. Kits mean smart people did the thinking for me.

Nice Job! I was just looking at my kit today.  I am at the very starting stages, but I think the kit is absolutely amazing.  I am also working on the 1/350 refit.  And yes.  It is substantially harder to build IMHO.  Model on!!!!

This is one of the best built models ever. Strong, accurate, detailed.

But I can offer some bits of advice. in no particular order

Silver paint from an air brush light blocks without adding thick layers of paint like a spray can does.

Decals - the warp nacells have decals for the grey areas forward of the nacelle struts, put these on before you glue the pieces that bridge from dome to nacelle across the ridged area. {it's hard to describe but youll see it}

Also on Decals, if you are doing the after market weathering decals from Polar Lights {I recommend} you want to apply them BEFORE attaching the bridge module. Otherwise they don't line up. Notice on my model on the saucer you will occational see a clean line between the pie-shaped wedges. 1: This is actually sceen accurate from the re-done digital blue ray, and 2: the decals lay UNDER the bridge module so attach them before the bridge.

And, if you are doing the landing gay and lighting it, then you will find the Polar Lights kit does not allow enough space for the lights. You have to carefully grind the outer hull down to a thin THIN layer to make room. Or, I just omitted the lights on the circuit labeled "Q" . there's enough ambient light to illuminate the shuttle bay.

Well, if you want to email chat or contact me with questions, gerry1of1@live.com will reach me. I'm no expert but happy to share any experiences I have.

I could only do the landing gay in california.......

landing BAY .... BAY ....LOL you know what I mean.. and Yes, thanks to the Supreme Court that is now the law in California.

Beautiful, although the blue lights are not canon.

Oh, and the spires were not on the lit nacelles, only when they were unlit.  Stunning none the less.

The Original Show is my favorite, but yes I did play around a bit with canon.

The brass rings around the bussard collectors. The red strip at the back of the nacelles, the brass end balls... Just things I like and over the years they are part of every enterprise I do. Call it my "signature". Now, with this model, I add blue nacelle lighting.