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Polar Lights 1/1000 original USS Enterprise

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  • Member since
    September 2018
Polar Lights 1/1000 original USS Enterprise
Posted by GlennS_TX on Thursday, October 11, 2018 9:20 PM

Enterprise secondary hull seam issue

I bought this kit long ago. Back when Walmart still sold them. I snapped her together and set her aside for a long time. When the stand broke 3 years ago, I decided to build her properly. I disassembled her. And glued her back together. But as you can see from the photo, her secondary hull has a seam issue where her pylons join with it. I tried to fix it with Squadron green putty. I know now that’s old school putty. Can I continue to putty her? Can I use a water based putty over the Squadron?

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, October 12, 2018 11:24 AM

When the Squadron is dry and hard you should be able to use any sort of putty or paint over it. The only thing I know that will soften the Squadron is rubbing alcohol. 

I built one of those sometime back though I still haven't painted her. That seam is a true pain. Overall personally I like the design much more than the separate pylons which always seem to droop or get broken off. Still I had to putty and sand that area at least six times or more to get it smooth enough not to be visible. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
Posted by GlennS_TX on Monday, October 22, 2018 8:37 PM

These kits refuse to allow me to erase their seams.

https://flic.kr/p/Nz5YpM

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Monday, October 22, 2018 10:12 PM

Oh ya, they are a bugger to put together.  The snap fit system is very poor, with spindly pins and terrible fit.  The D7's "neck" was crooked in the initial issue, but I think they fixed the molds.  I have one of the original mold kits.  Sad

Check out how off the neck was!

https://flic.kr/p/QLkCyg] [/url]D7-03 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/QWNHNV] [/url]D7-02 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

I added a pipe to help keep it aligned.

https://flic.kr/p/QWNH74] [/url]D7-04 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/QWNJxF] [/url]D7-01 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

Bleah!  It killed my enthusiasm, but I think I can deal with it again now.  The Enterprise was equally bad, especially the warp nacelles.  The pylon tabs forced the nacelles to rotate out of alignment, and none of the kit's tabs fit properly.  I solved most of the fit issues, and it's down to the fine sanding of all those terrible seams and sink marks.  I don't have photos of the Enterprise, but she does look a heck of a lot better than the D7!

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Tuesday, October 23, 2018 1:29 PM

I pulled out my Enterprise last night and took some photos.

https://flic.kr/p/2cgnhfU] [/url]NCC-1701-01 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/2ckSgnD] [/url]NCC-1701-02 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

The worst is over in the grind-sand-fill department, but I was so put off by the poor engineering of the kit that it went back into the box years ago.  I agree that the dorsal joints on the secondary hull are a nightmare.  But with heavy, and I mean HEAVY, scraping of the pylon "saddle", an acceptable finish can be achieved.  Mine's is not there yet, but almost.

https://flic.kr/p/29zhse5] [/url]NCC-1701-06 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

I had fits (pun intended) getting the warp nacelles mounted to their pylons, as the tabs were too thick.  Fit was poor, and unmodified, they rotated the nacelles out of alignment.  It was a real fight, but I managed to get the nacelles just about vertical.

https://flic.kr/p/2cgngks] [/url]NCC-1701-03 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

The glowing kit reviews must have been describing a different product, as the snap fit engineering was terrible and moldings were soft.  But I think it was the first kit of the Enterprise that was seriously researched, and the options were generous and welcome.

Don't give up hope (yet).  Go back in there swinging and beat that thing into submission!  You can't give up.

You.

Can't.

Give.

Up!

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    September 2018
Posted by GlennS_TX on Saturday, October 27, 2018 9:32 PM

This is getting ridiculous. I think the Kingon D-7 is finally ready to paint the subassemblies. But this Conni’s secondary pylon hump and seems  will not vanish. I guess I’m gonna have to open up on it with the rough sanding stick. Just afraid I’ll sand right through before it goes away.

https://flic.kr/p/2csGHBR

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by PFJN on Saturday, October 27, 2018 10:08 PM

Hi,

I don't know if this is the case with your build, but sometimes I find that if I try and start off with "too fine" a sanding block/stick/ or paper, sometimes all I end up doing is ending up sanding off the small imperfections but leaving the big ones.  As such, maybe going for a "rougher" sanding tool for the first couple of passes (like you suggested) will help some.Smile

PF

1st Group BuildSP

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Sunday, October 28, 2018 2:33 AM

No, you will not likely sand through the pylon “saddle”, due to the thickness of the part.  I used a loose utility knife blade to viciously flatten the bump with no problems.  But the overall fit on those two kits are mega ka-ka!

I cannot help but wonder if the kit reviewers were trying to be nice or something, because I have never had such a totally different view of a kit after getting into them.  Well, at least they will look nice once you beat them into submission.

Live long and prosper by not slamming the kits into a wall.  And remember:  “Logic is a bouquet of pretty flowers - which smell bad!”

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

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