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AMT Ncc-1701 537 Refit Rebuild

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  • Member since
    June 2020
Posted by Markeno on Friday, September 4, 2020 8:32 PM

Thanks.  I am happy with the results overall. I found an issue on one of the decals I am going to try to fix this weekend and finish the touch up work so I can find a nice place to keep her.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Sunday, August 30, 2020 1:59 PM

She turned out great!!! That's some really nice work! Yes

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    June 2020
Posted by Markeno on Saturday, August 29, 2020 9:05 AM

I have the decals on finally. I used the origonal ones for this build.  I am going to put another coat of Future when I get the time.  Still a little touch up work first.  I have been busy with other things lately though.  I am glad to finally have it all together and working.  I think it turned out well overall. 

 

If the album link above works, then there are a couple more pictures of the decals in there.

  • Member since
    June 2020
Posted by Markeno on Monday, August 3, 2020 10:11 PM

Thanks.  The fit on the engineering hull isn't super on this model either, takes a good bit of care it seems.  I partly had to work with how it was fitted the first time around as it was still partially glued.  The port nacelle, deflector, and base are from my 25th light and sound model, while the rest of the componets are from the original 20years release.  Both models had spent years torn down in a box, actually the original box from the second model.  Basically because the first one was broken by the time I got the second one, so it went into the box, the box came in a fitted cardboard box which I then kept it inside.  This saucer had been very securely glued and recieved quite a bit of cutting to open to add the lighting. It went back together quite well though.  I mostly picked the parts in the worst condition to try this rebuild hoping I could put the others back together at a later date.

Back in the day it was certainly beyond my skill to build the model very well.  My dad helped with the first one, and I believe I put the second one together myself a few years later, but neither had been painted with a base coat being white plastic.  Both had the nacelle pylons fail eventually.  The poor old plastic yellowed a good bit over the years.  I  think it has turned out great this time around all things considered including my still somewhat limited painting experience.  Sure others have done far superior jobs than myself, but for me I am happy.  I want to try to do a better job on the next one when I get around to it.  I think it would be nice to have one as the NCC-1701A and the other as the NCC-1701 refit.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Monday, August 3, 2020 12:09 PM

Looks good, one of the kits from my childhood that I still have is the original ST:TMP smoothie Enterprise. I did a very poor job on it, didn't know how to use the dry transfers, and the fit and engineering of the kit was beyond my meager abilities.

Then they reissued it with the engraved panel lines and I started fresh with one of those versions that I was very proud of.

But the old smoothie is still kicking around in my basement in various stages of disassembly.

  • Member since
    June 2020
Posted by Markeno on Sunday, August 2, 2020 4:25 PM

 

Video of the lights, and some of the sounds.  It also plays some MP3s.  The controls except the physical switch for the Phaser and Photon are all handled with an IR Remote.  The ship goes to Power Up when the power is turned on, but to get to any engine on condition you have to use the remote.  Both Photons are controlled by the remote, the phaser sound for completeness.  The Power Down cycle that powers everything off in reverse. Then several Mp3s.  I may find use for some of the unused buttons at some point.

  • Member since
    June 2020
AMT Ncc-1701 537 Refit Rebuild
Posted by Markeno on Sunday, August 2, 2020 4:10 PM

I have two origonal 537 Connie Refit models from back in the days of Star Trek's 20th and 25th Anniversarys.  Both were built back then, the one did not last very long before the Nacelles snapped off, which is why I ended up with the second one.  It lasted a fair while although the nacelles were droopy and came off years ago now.

Over 10 years ago I had thought of going back and rebuilding them.  So about 3 years ago I finally started.  Mostly I didn't have time, I still don't have alot that I should put into the models. I didn't do that many models back in the day, but I enjoyed it.  I am not that great a painter etc.  

The 25th model was the Special Edition with Lights and Sound Effects.  That bit still worked but I figured I would do a bit more with it.  Now it has an Arduino Nano V3 with a DFPlayer Mini for sound.  It also has a transistor array to handle some of the larger LED circuits. It is no longer battery powered, but has a USB Micro jack mounted in the base which powers everything from 5 Volts.

I am not sure if these pictures from Google Photos will work here or not.  I will give it a try.  Above is the shot of the model when I was gluing the base on.  That is about how it looks at this point, but the electronics are installed, the deflector is on and it is right side up.

I need to touch up around the deflector, possibly some other areas and put on the decals.  I had the set from the second model, they look ok, but I don't know that my odds are very good that they will work after all of this time.  I figure I will give it a shot though.

 

Here is a like to an album of photos taken during the process.  I really need to break them out as some probably need a bit of reference as to what they are.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NKw4omSN8FYa7MSJ6

Initally I tried to light block the interior with silver paint, that didn't block the light.  I then covered that with Black Primer.  Well the black primer lifted the underlying silver and cracked it very badly one one model.  It did to a lesser extent on the other.  It took hand touch up of the cracked areas and another coat of black to fully block the light.  I then followed that up with another coat of silver.  It is said that White is best, and I will try that on another model at some point.

The exterior paint is Createx airbrush paint.  I didn't prime the model, but I am certain it was clean.  The paint does not stick well at all, it scratches or rubs right off with very little effort.  I didn't want to start over and all so I went forward and was careful and did alot of hand touch ups.  I then coated it with Future in hopes of protecting it from rubbing off so easily.  I will be priming models going forward.  Maybe it is in part the paint too, I don't know.

The paint is a plain white finish.  I always felt she was white and I like it that way, that and I don't have the skills etc to do the aztecing.  Then on top of that the white paint would have never survived it on this model.  I do have the second one of these models, and a third one new in box so maybe next time.

The lighting is self made with some white strip light that was powered by some AA batteries and ment for picture frames.  Then there are the standard 3mm Red, Green, Yellow, Blue and White LEDs around the ship.  The Impulse Crystal is a 5mm Blue, and it is to tight in there, which messed up my impulse crystal a bit(which is made from a casting of the Reliant AMT model).  The Impulse Grills are 5mm RGB LEDS.  The Deflector is another 5mm RGB LED that has been filed to a flat top and polished.  It is installed in the deflector that came with the light and sound model just with some gold back paint and black for light blocking to keep it where it belongs.  The Deflector looks better in pictures or video than in person.  I can see the seperation in colors in the Deflector when in "copper" mode.  I was going to do the Nacelle Grills as a Rytheon effect, but ended up buying the DLM Grills and installing them.  In the end the part I am least happy with is the Grills, not due to the grills, but the lighting is not adiquate, it is weak, not vibrant enough in color and has hotspots.  The yellow LEDs in the sensor dome are under the saucer as mostly regular 3mm LEDs, but are filed down to fit in the narrow space.  The Torpedoes are in the factory part, carefully hollowed out.  The LEDs are 3mm Red LEDs ground filed and polished to fit.

The base is the base from the Light and Sound version.  I replaced the speaker as it was the wrong resistance.  The let me place it in the space and fit my IR Receiver in the slot to the side of it.  The factory switch is wired for power as it was in the original.  The Photo/Phaser toggle switch is also wired to do the sound effects, this time with the DFPlayer Mini. I have no lighting effect for the phasers so the phaser just triggers the DFPLayer directly, but the Torpedo effect side is wired over to an input on the Nano and triggers the Photon Effect and sound.

It added the missing windows to the back of the saucer both sides. I didn't put in the round ones on the sides of the Rec Deck windows.  Most of the window openings in the secondary hull and even the Rec room were done with my Dremel with the flex shaft.  For round windows I used a small drill bit, for the other windows I used a small burr bit mostly.  I also used a sharp exacto blade and files.  I added two phaser emitters to the back of the secondary hull that came from DLM.  Most of the DLM parts I kept for the next build, the Deflector, bridge, sensor dome etc.

For the Nacelles I threaded a single section of a metal coat hanger through the strong back area.  Once they were in place, I ground it from being a round rod to being a flat sided rectangle shape. This just fit inside the Nacelle pylon area once ground down.  That couldn't have really went any better, they are far closer to the correct alignment that I ever thought I would get, they are solid. The hangers stop just before entering the nacelle.

I am quite happy with the results, and very happy afteer 3 years I am getting to where there are results finally.  I do have the other two models, but I don't plan to do either anytime soon.  I have a smaller project I am going to work to finish once this one can be put up on the shelf.  I also do some models with/for my sons as well now and then.  I have plenty of models to work on for numerous years to come at this point.

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