NSScifiGeek
The instructions are vague as to how to adhere it to the inside of the hull.
The instructions also ask to cut a large clear part consisting of the bridge dome away. What's the best way to cut clear parts without splintering them? Dremel?
Green Strawberry's instruction sheets are never all that clear, but this is a pretty straightforward kit. Just be careful with the diagram they supply for which parts of the base model get cut away (marked in red). The illustration shows a good portion of the model being removed entirely, when all that really needs to be removed are the forward viewing window and the overhead dome. Those are the clear vacuum-formed replacement parts found in the GS kit. Study things carefully before cutting into the kit.
Ikar's already covered the basic approach to removing the plastic to accommodate the replacement parts, so just be sure to take your time to ensure a good fit with the vac-form bits. I would advise forming the photo-etched dome assembly (step 3 of the GS instructions) over the model kit piece before you cut it away. It makes getting the curves in the brass a lot easier than trying to bend the metal into shape by hand and safer than forming it on top of the thin, delicate replacement parts.
Be careful with the PE sheets. All of the GS photoetched frets I've ever worked with have been a bit on the brittle side. It's not a particular problem with the large, flat pieces, but with delicate features that require multiple bends (ex - the handrails which run around the command bridge), this can be a bit of a headache. It's very easy to break those and repairs can be a challenge at this scale. Cleaning and annealing the brass before bending makes a big difference with the Green Strawberry frets.
The clear vac-form parts will need to be cut from the sheet. Everyone has a different approach to cutting them out, but most prefer a sharp scalpel or a good pair of cuticle scissors to remove these bits. The real challenge comes in dressing the edges to ensure a good fit and a clean finish. A Dremel is pretty much overkill for this material - sanding sticks work well here. Take your time and work carefully. My only real advise here is to mask both sides of the clear parts as early on in your work as feasible to prevent scratches while you work with things.
Once you have the bridge assembled and painted, you have a couple of options on how to go about mounting it into the kit. The easiest method is to dry fit it into place to see how things mate up by gluing the top edge of the bridge's walls to the ceiling of the kit. Once things are properly positioned and aligned, tack it in place where the glue will not been seen.
HTH