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Exterior Lighting: PL 1:350 Enterprise 1701

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  • Member since
    December 2014
Exterior Lighting: PL 1:350 Enterprise 1701
Posted by bigjimslade on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 12:52 PM

Most of my time building the above-mentioned kit has been spent trying to figure out how to light various areas of the ship.

I've done pretty well with the the hangar (It has 20 LEDs mounted - 4xLanding area roof, 2xElevator Area roof, 2xHold roof, 2xHold Elevators, 2xOpened up aft side windows, 4xOpened up observation windows, 4xDrilled out small portholes). I've done well with the forward facing dish. As soon as some new LEDs arrive I will see how well I have done with the bridge, having finally figured out how to light the top of the saucer from an engineering POV. Hopefully, it will artistically successful.

I'm working on how to mount both a flashing light and a steady forward facing light on the underside beneath the hangar opening.

There are still a number of problem areas left to go:

1. Illuminating the enterprise symbol on either side of the cylindrical hull from the nacelles.

2. Illuminating the logos on either side of the nacelle.

3. Mounting the yellow lights at the end of the nacelle.

4. A blue multi-LED mount to provide even light for the inside of the nacelles.

5. A mount for the red lights above the hangar.

6. Mounts for the lights for the under side of the saucer.

7. Mount for lighting the lounge in the saucer.

8. For blue lights either side of the hangar (space confined).

I'm wondering if anyone out there has some lighting techniques to share???? It's interesting figuring these out but I don't have any longing to figure ALL of them out on my own.

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Chehalis, WA
Posted by Fish-Head Aric on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:20 PM

Big Jim, you are a BIG TEASE!

I wanna see!  I wanna see what you've got finished so far!  Turn on them lights an' turn off the room lights, an' gimme some PICS!!!!

~Aric Fisher aric_001@hotmail.com
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Tennessee
Posted by MartianGundamModeler on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 3:08 PM
My suggestion for the nacel is to coat the inside with foil. There is this foil they sell in the hard ware store that is adhesive on one side like bare metal foil for model cars. If you cover the inside with it will reflect the light evenly. It worked on my Voyager where I placed it on the top and bottom halves of the nacel. I know those nacels are shaped different but because it is metal  it works great on interiors and prevents light from bleeding through the plastic so well that you dont have to paint the plastic black where it is applied.
"Some men look at things the way they are and ask ' Why?'. I dream of things that never were and ask "Why not?".--Robert Kennedy taken from George Bernard Shaw's "Back To Methuselah" (Thanks to TomZ2) http://martiangundammodels.50megs.com/index.html
  • Member since
    December 2004
Posted by vfxart on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 9:49 PM
If you're looking for an idea or two...

http://www.auak20.dsl.pipex.com/

gallery/startrek/enterprise 1701a etc...

It's got a series of switches that allow the ship to be seen in 'spacedock' or 'fully powered' and traveling modes...

  • Member since
    December 2014
Posted by bigjimslade on Thursday, January 19, 2006 11:39 AM

That's a very good link - exactly the kind of thing I was looking for. It was interesting to see the ways in which I had tried similar things and those in which I was different.

For example, both of us independently came up with the idea of raising the bridge to get light on the saucer. However, this one one raised the existing opening 2mm apparently to about  (.008" + .003") .011" allowing a direct light on the saucer. I shaved off the existing opening, made my own bridge base  to create .008". The lighting is dimmer but the hole is smaller.

On the other hand, we completely diverged doing the forward dish.

I also tend to use mountings made out of I-bar or tube rather than direct gluing to the kit pieces.

So it was interesting to compare and contrast.

 

  • Member since
    December 2014
Posted by bigjimslade on Friday, January 20, 2006 2:13 PM
 Fish-Head Aric wrote:

Big Jim, you are a BIG TEASE!

I wanna see!  I wanna see what you've got finished so far!  Turn on them lights an' turn off the room lights, an' gimme some PICS!!!!

Yesterday I got a new battery for my digital camera. I took a number of pictures, went to the fine scale forum and it won't let me post. It says I'm logged in but have no posting privilege. I can post from....errrr....work but no pictures here.

On the other hand, I can't say the pictures came out great. The hange looks bright to the eye but comes out a dark tunnel with some side glow in the pictures.

Sorry.

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Chehalis, WA
Posted by Fish-Head Aric on Friday, January 20, 2006 3:58 PM

yah, the pics I took of my nacelle lighting in the group build came out looking brighter than they look, so I know what you mean about lighting not being what it seems.

I store my pics online at photobucket.com .  It works very well for online posting.

~Aric Fisher aric_001@hotmail.com
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 20, 2006 8:08 PM
You may want to try putting the white reflective tape inside the nacelle.  I believe its reflective properties are greater than foil and will more evenly diffuse the light.
  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Chehalis, WA
Posted by Fish-Head Aric on Saturday, January 21, 2006 6:05 PM
Excellent idea!  Been trying to decide something to mount behind the lighting for my 1/1000 nacelle domes.
~Aric Fisher aric_001@hotmail.com
  • Member since
    December 2014
Another Tip
Posted by bigjimslade on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 9:08 AM
In making the light box for the "impulse engines", I found that if I made the back oversized it creates a secure gluing point for the angled side pieces that wrap around the engine.
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Tennessee
Posted by MartianGundamModeler on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 12:29 PM
 bigjimslade wrote:

That's a very good link - exactly the kind of thing I was looking for. It was interesting to see the ways in which I had tried similar things and those in which I was different.

For example, both of us independently came up with the idea of raising the bridge to get light on the saucer. However, this one one raised the existing opening 2mm apparently to about  (.008" + .003") .011" allowing a direct light on the saucer. I shaved off the existing opening, made my own bridge base  to create .008". The lighting is dimmer but the hole is smaller.

On the other hand, we completely diverged doing the forward dish.

I also tend to use mountings made out of I-bar or tube rather than direct gluing to the kit pieces.

So it was interesting to compare and contrast.

 

Yeah i agree. It is cool to compare. As i said above I use the sticky foil from the hardware store and he lines his kits with something similar and I came up with it independantly as well. I didn't have internet when i started building my Voyager...That's one sweet site and he even has wiring diagrams for all to see!! I love this guy! I have been looking at some AMT Enterprises on Ebay for cheap that I have been thinking about toying with...LOL

"Some men look at things the way they are and ask ' Why?'. I dream of things that never were and ask "Why not?".--Robert Kennedy taken from George Bernard Shaw's "Back To Methuselah" (Thanks to TomZ2) http://martiangundammodels.50megs.com/index.html
  • Member since
    December 2014
Some tips
Posted by bigjimslade on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 4:21 PM

1. Colored lights look better than colored plastic with a white light.

2. Use square tube to create the windows in the hangar.

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