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Gundam model repair help needed!!!!!

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Gundam model repair help needed!!!!!
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 3, 2006 9:20 PM

Out of all my gundam models I thought my 1/100 Astray Red Frame would be the least likely to break, and yet it broke. The peg that connects the shoulder peice to the arm broke off. I've tried to glue it back on using model glue many times, but it just does not hold. Does anyone know how to fix it. ANY suggestions would be apreciated. I also got some pics of the brake.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k160/dehir45/Astray1.jpg

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k160/dehir45/Astray2.jpg

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 3, 2006 9:30 PM
What model glue are you using?  you could scrap the old glue off to where you have plastic to plastic contact and use some plastic welding type glue such as Tamiya thin cement or Tenax7.  Apply the glue and put a little pressure on the peg until it sets up.  Let it completely cure overnight before applying any weight to it.  After that you may have to do a bit of clean-up around the join but you should be good to go from there.  Just be careful with it once it's fixed cause that part does not look sturdy enough. 
  • Member since
    November 2004
  • From: Fukuoka Japan / Brisbane AUS.
Posted by Chris_in_Japan on Tuesday, October 3, 2006 10:00 PM
I'd go with the Super Glue.. Harder the better!

Chris

On the bench:

                          1/48 RAAF 3 Sqn F/A-18B

                          1/150 /1/160 N Scale Japanese Rail diorama.

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Newfoundland, Canada
Posted by ZzZGuy on Tuesday, October 3, 2006 10:22 PM
5 minute epoxy (actually takes about 30 minutes to harden and 24 hours to fully set) would create the best and strongest bond. You mix the 2 halfs of the epoxy and wait untill it starts to support a tooth pick stuck in the puddle and apply it to both halfs of where ever you're glueing it. I recomend taping in place and don't even breath on it.


Super glue is the next best option. I'd recomend applying thick super glue to both halfs for best bond.

Mongol General: Conan, What is best in life?
Conan: To crush your enemies, see them driven befor you, and hear the lamentations of the woman!

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Down Under
Posted by dj898 on Wednesday, October 4, 2006 7:43 PM
clean the surface and put the ticker plastic rod in between.
then glue using the super glue with thin coat of super putty or polly putty for the extra strength

mind you even with it you wouldn't want to move it too much

another option is get the replacement parts - though I'm not sure how hard/easy it would be for you over there
people living in glass colonies shouldn't throw nuclear stones.
  • Member since
    May 2003
Posted by rdxpress on Thursday, October 5, 2006 7:30 AM
You need to put in a small round head screw, cover it with epoxy and hardsen. Sand to contour and viola a stronger joint, Good Hunting, G.W.
  • Member since
    June 2005
  • From: NJ 07073
Posted by archangel571 on Friday, October 6, 2006 8:59 PM

 dj898 wrote:
clean the surface and put the ticker plastic rod in between.
then glue using the super glue with thin coat of super putty or polly putty for the extra strength

mind you even with it you wouldn't want to move it too much

another option is get the replacement parts - though I'm not sure how hard/easy it would be for you over there

what he said.

also you can cut a piece of a large paperclip for even more strength.  glue that one with superglue, fill the gap with liquid cement, then exposy putty or use plastic weld.

-=Ryan=- Too many kits... so little free time. MadDocWorks
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Tennessee
Posted by MartianGundamModeler on Friday, October 13, 2006 10:55 AM
 Malich wrote:
What model glue are you using?  you could scrap the old glue off to where you have plastic to plastic contact and use some plastic welding type glue such as Tamiya thin cement or Tenax7.  Apply the glue and put a little pressure on the peg until it sets up.  Let it completely cure overnight before applying any weight to it.  After that you may have to do a bit of clean-up around the join but you should be good to go from there.  Just be careful with it once it's fixed cause that part does not look sturdy enough. 

As for simplicity I use the method he just said. i build Gundams all the time (hence the name.lol) This method works for me. I use both theTananx and Ambroid plastic welds. Use one of those let harden over night (though it dries in seconds) and then coat with a drop of super glue [I mostly use the gel but the thin works too] and then let that harden. That is the simplest method. Epoxy works great too but I never have had to use it. The Super glue adds strength. It all depends on how much wear and tear you plane to place on the joint.

I practically rebult a joint for the gundam in my Avatar using shavings of sprue and Tanex. The joint on one of the arms that connect to one of the the pincer claws was was broken. [If you notice it is a modified Gundam Ashtron. The claws aren't extended in the avatar because they were broken at the time.lol]

BTW I saw that red fram kit at AWA [Anime Weekend Atlanta] last month. I was tempted but I put it back. Cool design, there was one even in the art show.  I have the action figure on my entertainment center.lol

"Some men look at things the way they are and ask ' Why?'. I dream of things that never were and ask "Why not?".--Robert Kennedy taken from George Bernard Shaw's "Back To Methuselah" (Thanks to TomZ2) http://martiangundammodels.50megs.com/index.html
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: United States
Posted by kylwell on Saturday, October 14, 2006 10:56 AM
In cases like this I've foun it easiest to drill out the pinlocation and replace it with aluminum or brass rod or tubing. Secure it with either black ca (more giving than regular ca) or 5 minute epoxy. For additional strength you can try pining it.
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Tennessee
Posted by MartianGundamModeler on Monday, October 16, 2006 11:27 AM
Whats black ca? I have never used that. Also how do you cut your tubing? I alwayas have trouble cutting brass, and aluminum, tube..
"Some men look at things the way they are and ask ' Why?'. I dream of things that never were and ask "Why not?".--Robert Kennedy taken from George Bernard Shaw's "Back To Methuselah" (Thanks to TomZ2) http://martiangundammodels.50megs.com/index.html
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: United States
Posted by kylwell on Monday, October 16, 2006 11:44 AM
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/cfstore/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=636

Fine aluminum can be cut easily with a hobby knife. Otherwise I either use a tube cutter or my lathe.

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=20132
  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Baton Rouge, Snake Central
Posted by PatlaborUnit1 on Monday, October 16, 2006 12:24 PM

I would use thick solder, the kind you use for plumbing. The guys that build Machinen Krieger stuff remove these joints altogether and install heavy solder wtih epoxy, then make an all new joint cover (simuled canvas) with epoxy puty.

 

I have replaced several of these whimpy Gundam pins with either heavy rodstock or solder, just take a spare polycap with you so you can find solder or stock that is the right size to fit.

 

HTH

 

Build to please yourself, and don't worry about what others think! TI 4019 Jolly Roger Squadron, 501st Legion
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Tennessee
Posted by MartianGundamModeler on Monday, October 16, 2006 1:08 PM
 kylwell wrote:
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/cfstore/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=636 Fine aluminum can be cut easily with a hobby knife. Otherwise I either use a tube cutter or my lathe. http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=20132

Thanks . I always get ugly cuts when I do it with a hobby knife though it has been a looong time since i tried.

Patlabor unit one, It's funny that you mention using wire to replace joints. On my Patlabot Heldiver Desert Custom I used wire to replace his elbow joints and covered them with tissue to represent cavas. The joint/rubber-boot system sucks for static poses...

"Some men look at things the way they are and ask ' Why?'. I dream of things that never were and ask "Why not?".--Robert Kennedy taken from George Bernard Shaw's "Back To Methuselah" (Thanks to TomZ2) http://martiangundammodels.50megs.com/index.html
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: United States
Posted by kylwell on Monday, October 16, 2006 1:12 PM
The trick with the hobby knife is to roll the tube against the knife. Just lay it on a smooth surface and roll the blade against tube. The only hard part is keeping the pressure even and keeping the blade as perpendicular to the tube as possible.
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Tennessee
Posted by MartianGundamModeler on Monday, October 16, 2006 1:16 PM

I just a new heavy duty hobby knife after slitting my thumb on a vinyl kit.Sad [:(]

 It should be perfect.

[BTW thanks for the links kylewell. I'll keep an eye out for this black stuff.]

"Some men look at things the way they are and ask ' Why?'. I dream of things that never were and ask "Why not?".--Robert Kennedy taken from George Bernard Shaw's "Back To Methuselah" (Thanks to TomZ2) http://martiangundammodels.50megs.com/index.html
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 2, 2006 12:30 PM
Just drill it out and pin it - heavy coat hangers are a good source of that gauge wire!
  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Baton Rouge, Snake Central
Posted by PatlaborUnit1 on Monday, December 4, 2006 9:59 AM

MartianGundamModeler...'

yes, those vinyl joints are awful and if the Bandai vinyl is anything like AMTs it will melt ove rtime. I have lost several AMT Tigercats to using the vinyl tires with the plastic wheels...just melts into sludge!

I have found that MagiSculpt avialable from TAP Plastics is fantastic for recreating the foldes in cloth and such, and works better than milliput for making things like this.

good luck with the repair!

 

 

 

Build to please yourself, and don't worry about what others think! TI 4019 Jolly Roger Squadron, 501st Legion
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