So someone asked me about the C-mod w/ Gunpla

I originally wrote this in response to someone from another board but thought might be useful to other Gunpla modellers on this board.
You probably heard of the C-mod often mentioned in Japanese modelling magazines like Hobby Japan and Dengeki Hobby.

My understanding of the C-mod is that due to the nature of the snap-fit gunpla there always are a lot of masking required when it comes to painting. A lot of limbs and other parts are made of several components that are linked together by locking pin and etc. And because you need to fix the seam line and in order to do so you need to build as shown in the instruction and do masking the area for painting.

I know there are modellers who will think masking isn't so bad and they are probably right. But also for many modellers the masking can cause all sorts of problem. After carefully painted area you don't want to see the undercoat to pulled away with the masking tape. Yep they say always use the high quality masking tape like Tamiya but they are quite expensive too! And often out of stock as well - well in my area anyway.

The C-mod is the modification around the snap-fit locking pin to allow the male counterpart to slid in and out. And in order to do that you need to convert the female part with one side carved out to make it into "C" shape rather than "O" shape when you look at down from the above. Now there isn't a set rule on how to do the modification but the general idea is anything that locked in by pin - including the moving parts that swing around with the locking pin or sliding mechanism.

The below are the series of shots from my unfinished Master Grade Zaku I.
It was originally junk snap assembled kit messing hands and I rebuilt it with the seam line fixed and the C-modification at the leg and the helmet.

front
back
pic
pic
pic
pic
pic
pic

Hope this of some help to others...