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A Nitto Problem...

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  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Baton Rouge, Snake Central
Posted by PatlaborUnit1 on Tuesday, February 5, 2008 3:00 PM

you can find a lot of the Ma.K scanned instructions at the Starship Modeler site.

I saw one today scanned as part of a online build there.

 

http://www.starshipmodeler.com/olb/lj_m/lj_mak19.jpg

hope this helps

 David

Build to please yourself, and don't worry about what others think! TI 4019 Jolly Roger Squadron, 501st Legion
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Sunday, February 3, 2008 3:44 PM

Laugh [(-D] Yeah, you like me now...

...but when you're trying to remove all the seams on those models, will you promise to still like me then??? Laugh [(-D]

Cheers-Cosmic John Creed

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Covington, Louisiana
Posted by Tugcap on Saturday, February 2, 2008 10:32 PM
Thanks JC...you are a man among men and a gentleman among scholars. That's going to help me out a lot. Yeah, I've got my own stash of DTs that I use quite often myself. Looking forward to getting on with this project. Cheers.    Captain [4:-)]

Tommy      Captain

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Saturday, February 2, 2008 11:43 AM

Hey T, you can take down your address now, I dropped those instructions in the morning mail today. You should get them by Tues. or Weds. at the latest.

Turns out I didn't have the instructions for the P.K.A., but I did have them for the P.K.A. Ausf. 1 "Heinrich". It's exactly the same kit, except the ‘Heinrich' has some armor plates on the shoulder, and wider skirt armor. They build up exactly the same. I did have the data cards for both versions, so I included them.

The decals in the Nitto kits are excellent, but I didn't know if you had them, so I also threw in a sheet that shows the Crossdelta dry transfers set for this series of kits. The Crossdelta transfers are expensive, but I prefer to use DTs instead of decals whenever I can get away w/ it. Zero chance of silvering and all that.

I enjoyed helping a fellow modeler. Have fun-JC

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Covington, Louisiana
Posted by Tugcap on Friday, February 1, 2008 5:50 PM

Hey JC...Wow, that would be great if you can photocopy those and send them! Thank you so much for your consideration and thanks also for the building information.

Thanks again...if you ever need a favor that I can help you with, just let me know. (Aint this a great forum!)  Captain [4:-)]

Tommy      Captain

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Friday, February 1, 2008 5:27 PM

Good news/Bad news. I have all the instructions you're looking for, but my camera is w/ my sister-in-law in another state. I also have the color cardstock ‘data cards' that came w/ the models. Maybe we can come to some arrangement where I can photocopy them and mail them to you?

As far as the building of these kits goes, I've got all kinds of advice.

Be sure to paint the interior of the limbs and torso w/ a dark complementary color before you begin construction. (I do it while they are still on the sprue). The interiors of some parts will be visible once the models are constructed, but by then you won't be able to get a brush or airbrush up in there.

If you are going to leave the canopy open on either of them, the interior behind the pilot will be very visible. Hobby Link Japan has some aftermarket/conversion sets that give you details to fill in this area, but I just scratch-build my own. The ‘Gustav' has a spacer piece for the hull that has some molded in details on it, including an SMG (part #b22), but this sits well down behind the pilot seat, and you really can't see it without looking for it. I would include it anyway, as it gives some lateral support to the hull.

The "Gustav' has a ‘T' shaped piece (part #b25) that the ‘hips' attach to. I trim back the flange on the end of this piece (leaving the entire locator pin in place) so that I can assemble the torso, hips and legs separately before putting the whole thing together. This really helps simplify painting.

With both of these kits, you will be able to see light through the finished model if you don't block off the lower torso some how. I cut a piece of black construction paper into the correct shape, then place it in the lower hull. A quick and simple fix.

When attaching the power cables to the hull and legs, I use a drill bit the same size as the coil/spring, and drill all the way into the interior. This gives the cable a firmer attachment point and makes it easier to flex the assembled pieces into the position I want without breaking anything.

Some guys I know fill the limbs w/ Miliput, and then run armature wire down through them so that they can pose the models in a more naturalistic way. With the ‘P.K.A.' you don't really need to do this, but it helps a lot w/ the ‘Gustav'.

If you go to maschinenkrueger.com you can get a lot more advice on how to build these things. Someone there might also have the instructions you need, and be able to post them.

-JC

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Covington, Louisiana
A Nitto Problem...
Posted by Tugcap on Thursday, January 31, 2008 1:16 PM

Hey all...at a contest/show last weekend I picked up a couple of those Nitto 1/20 scale Hobby Japan sets. Even though I'm usually a plane guy I find them very interesting. The problem is that they have no instruction sheets. One is Gustav (Panzer Kampf Anzug Aust G) series 5, the other is P.K.A. (Panzer Kampf Anzug) series 2.

If anyone has either or both of these instruction sheets I would greatly appreciate a copy. I suppose I could try to put them together blindfolded but I fear the probable mess I would end up with.

Thanks in advance for any help.      Captain [4:-)]

Tommy      Captain

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