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Manchester Thread switched to Tamiya USS Indanapolis

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  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: 6023 47th Av. Kenosha, Wis.
Posted by UnderdogF7U on Monday, September 8, 2008 11:20 AM

OK  Thanks Ed for the quick response.  When I opened up the set I wasn't eating and my fingers were terribly greasy, but I did run my fingers over the parts quite a bit marvelling at them like the little kid I am sometimes.  I will do the laquor thinner rinse then.  Thanks again.

Dave B.

Dave Bayer
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Monday, September 8, 2008 8:59 AM

Photoetched brass is cleaned to stop the etching process and most are then packaged without too much additional handling,  or those doing the handling take typical precautions such as cotton gloves to prevent skin oils from being transferred

If you open your packet with the PE, handle it by the edges and paint it right away, you can probably get away without cleaning it.

If you have pawed the PE with your pizza grease stained fingers you may need to give the PE a soak in lacquer thinner.   Allow to air dry.   I have done this,  but normally have not found it necessary.

Some may also suggest a bath in a mild acid, such as vinegar, for several hours.  Rinse in water & air dry.   This will slightly etch the brass & give it some tooth to hold the paint.    I have never found it necessary to do this.

Don't sand the PE.   This may possibly deform the parts.

Toms PE is etched from a soft brass.   It will be more liable to be deformed by an errant thumb than PE by other manufacturers (White Ensign, Gold Medal Models, Flagship, or Eduard). 

 

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: 6023 47th Av. Kenosha, Wis.
Posted by UnderdogF7U on Monday, September 8, 2008 8:42 AM

Thanks Ed,  This  is just what I was looking for.  Nice tutorial.

Just one more question, my phtoetch set is in Brass form Tom's.  Whats the best way to prpare the surface before painting, ie light sanding, rubdown with laquor thinner, denatured alcohol, etc.  I think they recommend the laquor thinner, but I'd be interested in your experiences as well.  Thanks.   I think I'm about ready to roll.

 

Dave Bayer
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Sunday, September 7, 2008 8:19 PM

My hints on installing photoetched railings on ships

1) I paint my PE while still on the fret when I am spraying the ship. Hand paint/touch up any nicks, cracks, etc. later.
2) Measure the length with a draftsman's dividers. Find logical break points, bulkheads, gun tubs, ladderways, other railing runs, etc.
3) Resist the urge to do the entire side of a model with one piece of railing just because you have one that long. Work in manageable 2-3 inch lengths.
4) Cut with a #10 blade (the rounded one) on a piece of glass or tile. Cutting on a self-healing mat will cause the cut ends to curl under.   You can use a #11 blade on the hard surfacebut it will result in broken blade points (eye protection needed)
5) Clean up cuts & burrs with a very fine fingernail polishing board.
6) Place a pin-point sized dot of white glue at each end & every 1/2 inch or so along the length. (I prefer Alenes Tacky Glue from the craft store) Place on the model. Position as necessary. The white glue allows you to reposition the railing and can be cleaned up with water on a Q-tip.
7) Repeat with all the railing. Work inside to out and top to bottom to minimize disturbing previously laid railings.
8) Once the railing is installed & the white glue is dry go back & lay a fine bead of CA along the gutter rail. I like Darren Scannell/Hawk Graphics glue tips for this. Buy them from Darren or see his method of making them. Either way, see the link to Hawk at hawkgraphics.com
9) Now is the time to hand touch up any paint blemishes.
10) Dust a light coat of clear flat over the CA used to secure the rail to kill the shine and blend everything together


  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: 6023 47th Av. Kenosha, Wis.
Manchester Thread switched to Tamiya USS Indanapolis
Posted by UnderdogF7U on Saturday, September 6, 2008 3:34 PM

Ok, I've been convinced not to start the Lindberg Manchester and will donate it to a youth group where kids just need to practice their skills.

I have, because I've got it, and we all know the quality of this marque of kit, decided to start on the USS Indianapolis by Tamiya, notwithstanding its a 1/700.  I also purchased a 1/700 USS Arizona brass photo etch set at my LHS (since they didn't have a Portland class set in stock)since I wouldnt intend to use all the pieces in any set at this scale anyway being a relative beginner on ships.  ( I am pretty advanced with autos however. ) I did think this in  scale battle ship set might be good for some of the generic things like railings and steps for here and there, maybe radar, just to add a little more pop.  I have the Portland/Indainapolis photo book put out many years ago which my LHS must have had for 30-35 years at least and I think there is a photographic angle of every square foot of the ship at various times in its carreer and the various paint schemes.

Any comments, either critical or encouraging would be appreciated.  I hope to learn a lot, and just be patient and have fun with this one no matter how long it takes or how many times I flub and still make a nice presentable piece, maybe not show quality yet since I'm sure I'm not ready for that. Thanks.

Dave B.

Dave Bayer
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