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removing seams

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  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: NJ
Posted by JMart on Thursday, October 9, 2008 4:36 PM

I just went thru this (and still am) while doing my 1:350 Dragon USS Kidd

butt seams are killing me... I am using tenax and that helps a bit, but I did not "squish" enough on several joints (and too much on one). I then dabbed Mr Surfacer 500 with a small brush (0), let it dry (one hour is enough), gently and carefully shave away the excess (or not put as much as I did! :) Then comes the careful sanding et al. Worked on 80% of my seams, and thats a factor of my newbiewness. I will AB a light mist of primer grey just to take a better look at the joints

I have spent 10-15 hrs just on putting together the superstructure so far, have not even started on the radar/weapon assemblies, etc. Just the seams :)

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Portsmouth, RI
Posted by searat12 on Tuesday, October 7, 2008 10:27 PM
I have had some problems along these lines with the Aoshima 'Atago,' particularly in the joins of the after superstructure to the fourth turret stem.  Anyone else have this issue?  What have you done about it?
  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: WA
Posted by airtrans Crash on Tuesday, October 7, 2008 5:16 PM
thanks fotr the input and I'll give your suggestions a shot!
 A man's country is not a certain area of land, of mountains, rivers, and woods, but it is a principle; and patriotism is loyalty to that principle. ~George William Curtis
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Tuesday, October 7, 2008 8:28 AM

The superstructure of the Buchanan kit has a number of butt joints.  There may also be some miter joints, though you seel them more on Trumpeter kits.    The key is preparation.  Dry-fit the parts.   True up the joints with a quick pass with a fine sanding stick (not too heavy - don't want to reshape it).    Then cement together with liquid glue.   Apply the glue to both pieces & allow them to soften for a few seconds - then squish them together - allowing a fine bead of softened plastic to ooze out of the joint.   Once the bead is hardened it can be knocked off with a Xacto knife or sanding stick.   

More prominant joints can be filled with CA,  hit with a shot of accelerator, then sanded right away.    Another good solution for larger seams is good old white glue (ie Elmer's glue).  Add just enough to slightly overfill the seam - it shrinks as it dries.

The key is to work in assemblies,  dry fit, & correct/adjust the fit before committing to glue 

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: WA
removing seams
Posted by airtrans Crash on Monday, October 6, 2008 10:09 PM
silly and basic question, but how do you guys remove and fill seams on the superstructure and hull?
 A man's country is not a certain area of land, of mountains, rivers, and woods, but it is a principle; and patriotism is loyalty to that principle. ~George William Curtis
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