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Looking for suggestions on coiling a throw line for 1/35 LCVP

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by weebles on Wednesday, December 10, 2008 6:22 AM

The boat that's under way has the line wrapped around the fuel cap.  It sticks up enough to keep the wrope from sliding around the stern deck.  In the boat being loaded they threw the line forward on the engine cover probably for the same reason.  The configuration on my engine hatch is different than this one so I'm inclined to wrap it around the fuel cap.

Thanks

Dave

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Tuesday, December 9, 2008 10:30 PM

To my eye, the line in the photo is the tow line, LCVP operations recommend rigging before going into landing operations.  That would not be a simple bit of line a person might hand throw.  There would be a coil of 3/8 or 1/2 manilla to bend on the tow line and heave the other end across as needed. 

That tow line would have a great weight, and a certain stiffness, so it would lay up on the engine cover middling nicely.  The heaving line would be tucked away neatly someplace, not left on deck to slither away unawares (only the one prop on an LCVP, Murphy insists any fouling of that screw will be at the worst possible time <sigh>).

That nifty bit of cordage linberg is so apt fo mould into decks would go sliding about the first moment the seas got going.   (Loose gear annoys my eye, in IRL or in models.)

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Greenville,Michigan
Posted by millard on Tuesday, December 9, 2008 8:15 PM

The method I use.Like Big Jake I wax the thread. Than I take a a piece of masking tape folded over on itself than stick that down to my work table. I than take the thread press it down on the tape and start working it into a coil around it self. Once I have the coil size I want I put  white glue on the whole coil let it set over night.Flip it over and its ready to glue to the deck.Takes just a little practice.

Rod

  • Member since
    May 2006
Posted by thunder1 on Sunday, December 7, 2008 12:41 PM

 I use thin solder for coiling rope, granted it doesn't contain "strands" but when painted it passes for "line"(sailor man talk for rope)Big Smile [:D] Solder is easy to handle and if you coil it or flemish it, it stays put...solder also comes in handy to represent electrical cable and hydraulic lines, again the scale of the model dictates if it looks "scale" or not.

If using thread, Big Jakes "wax method" is very good. Another method for waxed thread..take the thinnest sheet plastic from Evergreen Products, and using waxed thread, start coiling the thread by super gluing to the plastic sheet. Then turning the sheet and guiding the thread in a circular motion spot tack it to the sheet, until you have your coil in the size you desire. Then using scissors, trim the plastic sheet until it's even with the edge of the thread coil. Take some deck gray(or whatever color you're painting the deck with) and touch up any exposed white plastic so it blends with the deck. Then take your coil and glue it to the deck!  It takes a little practice but the beauty of it is that you build it off the boat and if you screw it up, glue won't  damage the model. Applying the glue is important, too much and it "colors" the thread strands, practice and experiment first. You can also use Elmers water base glue if attaching the thread to aircraft veneer(thin wood for R/C plane models), it cleans up easy with water, again practice, Elmers dries slower than super glue.

Good luck!

Mike M.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by weebles on Sunday, December 7, 2008 12:30 PM

Thanks Jake,

I think this wrope is alread waxed or treated with something.  I'll give it a shot.  Look for some photos soon.

Dave

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Lacombe, LA.
Posted by Big Jake on Sunday, December 7, 2008 10:46 AM

Weeble try this approach.

First figure out how much "rope" you want. Then after you select what material you are going to use add another 12" to the length.  Next secure one end to a fixed object (small nail in the wall/front edge of shelf) string must not touch the wall at the other end clip an aligator clip and let it hand for a day or so to pull her absoluty straight and uncoil the "unseen twist". 

Next DO the next step ONLY ONCE because you don't want to add too much wax to the line.  Run Bees wax down the length and then run the line between your fingers kinda fast 2-3 time (softens and impregnates the line the a light amount of wax.

The line will now lay just about anyway you place it coil, curves etc.  Try this tech, on a small peice until you feel comf. Once you lay the coil you can spot small amounts of Elmers glue to hold her down.

Jake

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Looking for suggestions on coiling a throw line for 1/35 LCVP
Posted by weebles on Sunday, December 7, 2008 10:20 AM

Greetings,

I have one last detail to add to my Italeri LCVP which is to properly coil a throw line which will be attached to stern of the boat.  I'm looking for some ideas on how to do this so the wrope lies nice and flat on the deck.  One end will have a loop in it which will go around the chock.  In the example below one boat has the wrope wrapped around the fuel cap and the other loosely coiled over the engine cover.  The wrope supplied by Italeri is marvelous.  My thought was to hammer a nail into a board covered by wax paper and then coil the wrope around the nail and seal with a thinned Elmers glue.  Then transfer to the model.  Any other ideas out there?

Thank you

Dave

 

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