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Yet again, Painting decks, etc... Need some help here...

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: BOONEVILLE, MISSISSIPPI
Yet again, Painting decks, etc... Need some help here...
Posted by ipms40049 on Wednesday, January 7, 2009 4:25 AM

I know ive asked this many times, but i need some serious help here. if the decks your painting on your ship are a different color than say all your verticle surfaces, whats the painting process. I mean, do you paint the decks first, then add your pre-painted PE railings? or do you put all your railings and other stuff on first, and then paint your deck? but if you did it this way, do you just go back and re-paint all your PE railings and stuff?

As i understand it, CA glue wont stick to paint, or is their some other glue that would?

im just having a hard time trying to figure this one out.  Unfortunately, ive painted my decks already, deck blue, on two of my ships. does this mean i now have to remove that paint where the railings go...

 

thanks everyone

Pat Hensley Booneville, Ms "Thank you for being here and playing nice"...please do not drag sand outside the box ! CURRENT BUILD(s) Revell 1/72 U Boat VII C Tamiya Willys Jeep - for 2010 Nats Bronco's Staghound -for 2010 Nats Dragons M16 Multi gun carriage - for the 2020 Nats. LOL
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Wednesday, January 7, 2009 6:54 AM

Never had problems with CA not adhering to paint.   Of course the paint-to-substrate bond may fail.  That is not a PE problem - that is a paint preparation problem.

You may be over-thnking the problem.

I've posted several of my methods to you here in the past.   Paint the deck & mask with hundreds of little snippets of masking tape a'la the method described by Mike Ashey in his Ship Modeling books.   Alternately, paint the deck and spray the hull & superstructure up from 45 to 60 degrees below the deck-edge line.  The deck edge masks the deck.  Finish the bottom 1/3 of the superstructure by hand paintng.

I apply my PE after painting.   Things are easier to mask that way.   I tack my PE in place with white glue.   This has the advantage of grabbing the part, yet allowing it to be repositioned.  Mistakes & too much glue can also be cleaned up with water on a Q-tip.  After the white glue dries go back and run a bead of thin CA along the gutter rail.   Unless the PE is structural this may not even be required.   I use ultra-fine CA tips described by Darren Scannell of Resin Shipyard http://resinshipyard.com/pages/tip_pages/glue_tips.html

Shoot a final flat coat over the CA/white glue to kill the shine.

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Thursday, January 8, 2009 2:58 PM

There simply is no shortcut in painting (cutting in the line from deck surface to verticle surface on a ship model. I'm finishing the Revell Herman Marwede and the decks are green the verticle surfaces are white. Its in 1/72 scale and if I find it hard to mask in this scale I can't imaging in 350th scale. I don't mask what you are describing.

 

It takes severe patience, using the correct fine brushes, and possibly going back to spots (lines) several times back and forth between colors. Steady hand hold your breath type of technique.

 

If you are looking for a cure all, there isn't one.  My two cents from 30 yrs of experience.

The results are most always worth it.

 

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