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Lamp finial display stand question

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Illinois
Posted by wjbwjb29 on Friday, May 1, 2009 7:58 AM

Ships with sails have a promanent keel and battleships have a flat bottom so 4 pedistals looks alot better.

 

Bill

On the Bench:   Trumperter Tsesarevich on deck Glencoe USS Oregon

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Saturday, March 21, 2009 1:58 PM
i too am building this ship . the idea of two finials is fine ,just dont get ones that are too dainty . get a piece of aluminum 1.5 x 6.5 inches x 1/8  inch thick . drill holes in the hull and plate at the same time. tap the plate and then screw the finials to the plate trapping the hull between . i have used this for over 40 years with no problem .    tankerbuilder
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Maryland
Posted by usmc1371 on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 10:54 PM

Here's a link to Mike Ashey's USS Missouri mounted on 4 pedestals (scroll to page 2):

http://mikeashey.com/SHIP%20GALLERY%20pdf%20FILES/GALLERY%20-%20USS%20MISSOURI.pdf

I too, like the look of a battleship on 4 pedestals instead of 2.  It gives the ship a powerful, heavy look in my opinion.

-Jess

 

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: concord, north carolina
Posted by emo07 on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 5:23 PM

Thanks, Guys, for the great responces. I did not even think of the + configuration. That is what I will do. I have not added the main deck yet, only assembled and painted hull (Ms. 32-18). I may post a few pics later if I can find the camera. Thanks again,

emo07

" When I saw fighters escorting the bombers over Berlin, I knew the jig was up." - Herman Goering
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 9:21 AM

I think a big consideration here ought to be aesthetics.  There's little doubt that, assuming the mounting nuts inside the hull are firmly secured in place, two pedestals will keep the model from falling over in normal circumstances.  But I've seen quite a few models of big, wide, twentieth-century warships mounted on four pedestals (arranged in a + configuration, with two on the keel fore and aft and two outboard amidships), and they looked fine.  Better, in fact than two would have looked.  A big, squat battleship mounted on only two pedestals may look like it's nervous about falling over - even if it really isn't. 

Ed's made an excellent point (which is applicable to virtually all static ship models):  if at all possible, work out the mounting system is at the beginning of the project.  Drilling holes and securing nuts in a styrene hull is ludicrously easy if you can work from the inside.  (Another approach, particularly applicable in the case of a ship with a flat bottom, is to epoxy a piece of wood inside the hull and use wood screws through the pedestals.  I've known nuts to come loose because, years later, I had some reason to take the model off the pedestals and tightened the bolts a little too much when I put it back.  A good, big piece of wood is much less likely to do that.) 

Another tip that's worked for me:  if you do epoxy (or superglue) nuts to the inside of the hull, use plastic cement to stick some nice, thick chunks of plastic to the hull bottom alongside the nuts. The plastic cement is less likely to come loose than the epoxy, and will help keep the nuts from turning.  Better yet - cut a hexagonal hole to fit the nut in a thick piece of plastic sheet, and glue that inside the hull bottom. 

As Ed noted, if you're in the awkward position of mounting the pedestals after the hull's been assembled, you've got an additional reason to use four pedestals:  the fastenings for them will be less crucial.  And (assuming all four pedestals are exactly the same height) you don't have to worry about the ship listing to port or starboard.

I used to have reservations about mounting models on lamp finials, because they tended to look so much like...well, like lamp finials.  I've noticed recently, though, that the lamp companies have started producing quite a variety of them.  At our last model club meeting a member brought in a beautiful, plank-on-frame model of a sailing revenue cutter, enclosed in an equally beautiful walnut case that he'd built for it.  The model sat on a pair of exquisite, polished brass pedestals that, to my eye, were just the right height and in just the right locations along the keel to set off the model perfectly.  I practically dropped my teeth when the builder explained that they were lamp finials with grooves filed in their tops.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 6:50 AM
It seems that most ships with masts are mounted at two or three support points along the kneel. That seems adequate! Why would more support be needed for a lower profile model?

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep and research

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8 Prep and research

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 6:32 AM

Two pedestals are ususally sufficient to support lightweight subjects such as a styrene battleship.    Two will even support heavyweight subjects such as resin ships, but four may be necessary for extra-large/extra-heavy resin battleships or carriers.

Prepare the hull for permenant mounting before you cement the deck to the hull.   Drill holes and epoxy nuts to the inside of the hull.   You may also choose to pour some resin into the hull and insert some threaded brass inserts (a hardware store item). 

Prepare your pedestal by drilling a through hole up from the bottom and through the top-knot.   Cut the top knot off.  Polish and seal with clear gloss to prevent tarnishing. 

To use run a bolt up through the base, pedestal, and into the previously installed nuts. 

If you did not prepare the installation methodology before closing the deck you will likely have to resort to epoxy to attach the ship to the pedestal.  Drill holes to accept the top knot and allow the hull to rest on the collar.  Epoxy in place.  You will likely need four pedestals to adequately support the ship mounted in this method if you will be moving/transporting the model.

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by Yankee Clipper on Monday, February 9, 2009 8:17 PM

emo07

I mounted my 1/350 New Jersey on four brass tubes. One each fore and aft and two amidships. It is very sturdy, as it has traveled quite a bit to shows and veteran affairs.

Yankee Clipper

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: concord, north carolina
Lamp finial display stand question
Posted by emo07 on Monday, February 9, 2009 5:37 PM

Hi all,

I am building the Trumpeter 1/350 USS North Carolina. I have the hull completed and painted and want to use brass lamp finials to mount ship to a wooden base. My question is: Do I use two finials along center line of keel or would it be best to use four finials for more stability?

I would rather not drill any more holes than I have to.

Thanks,

emo07

" When I saw fighters escorting the bombers over Berlin, I knew the jig was up." - Herman Goering
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