Making PE stick to the subject...

I hope you have a ton of patience and some seriously steady hands. Using either of those methods to stick PE on is setting yourself up for frustration.

Super Glue is the only way to go with PE... In my humble opinion. Just start with insignificant parts, and do a lot of test fitting. Don't glue anything until you are sure you like it.

Let's start off the golden rules of super glue and PE parts. I'll take rule number 1:

1. PE parts will always stick faster, better and stronger to your fingers than the other part of the model you intended to stick the PE part to.

Julian

Grem says it well. Scientific fact, well proven.

Over on Model Shipwrights forum you can find out about Gator Glue. It's strong like superglue but not toxic and easy to clean up with water. You ight want to investigate.

Some PE will be removable (flat stuff) with almost any glue.

My own advice is to "measure twice and glue once" - test fit, make sure it's right, and then use Gator or Superglue (CA or cyanoacrylate) and hope it never comes off! Havign removable stuff is like building it twice. That said, we've all had emergency fixups!

Look for Aleene's Tacky Glue at the local craft store.  It is a white water soluable glue which grabs quickly, bit allows time to reposition the part.   Put a pinpoint spot of glue on each end of the rail and then one every 1/2 inch or so.  Mistakes can be cleaned up with water.  Once satisfied with the position of the part commit to CA.    Another product to look for in the craft store is Ultimate Glue by Crafters Pick.   I've tried it and I believe that it is the same stuff as Gator Glue, but sold without the price markup applied to modeling supplies.

As far as how to apply CA smoothly, here is a tip on tips from the Resin Shipyard.  

Darren Scannel at RS showed me how to make these tips at an IPMS Nats a few years back.  They use some RC aircraft teflon push rod tubes.   Stretch them over a flame like you would sprue.  You can make a couple of dozen for less than 5 bucks.  They deliver the finest dot of CA.  They are much more efficient than using a toothpich in a puddle of CA, and are just as controllable.

http://www.resinshipyard.com/pages/tip_pages/glue_tips.html

Sometimes I use white glue to tack a piece of PE emplace before applying superglue. Basically, I'll put a very small drop of white glue on the edge of the part and then glue the part to the model. After the glue has set, I strengthen the bond by applying superglue, normally the really thin stuff. After that, I'll remove any white glue residue with a cotton swab and water. The white glue will give you time to position the piece before permanently gluing it emplace.

When it comes to railings, I believe most of the frustration can be avoided by spending much time getting the bends as accurate as possible before gluing. You want the rail to basically drop in place as much as possible before gluing.

-Jesse

When it comes to railings (any scale) I'm just working up my courage to try them but a friend who does them all the time explained a couple of tricks he uses.

1. measure and cut the railings into short lengths rather than trying to glue a long run of railings.

2. Use the old carpenter's rule (measure twice/cut once)

3. When working 1/700 scale ensure a ready supply of Rum, Bourbon, Scotch etc.

4. Magnification and plenty of light.

5. Don't try to do it all at once. Take a break, come back tomorrow and do some more. When you feel the frustration start to build, see rule 3 above and quit for the day. It will always be there tomorrow. Hope that helps.

RickM

I just started using PE for first time ever... Gator's Glue works great, allows a min or so to reposition, and you can dab/brush out the excess glue with a moist brush.

http://www.gatorsmask.com/

If it's something small and flat that is never going to have any tension, stress, fingers, wild animals, etc., touch it, then plain old white glue, Gator Glue or one of the craft glues will do just fine. And if you decide later you want that firehose rack a smidge to the left, say, just pop it off and reglue.

For railings, yardarms, crane booms, or any other PE bits that you have to fold or otherwise fondle in some way, CA (Superglue) is the only way to go. Some of the gel type CAs give you up to a minute to position something, which is plenty of time to plop a section of railing in position, hold it at arm's length for the critical assessment, think Ahhhhhhh !, pluck off with the tweezers, reglue and reposition (repeating as necessary).

I use florists wire to apply CA. Its thin stiff and bendable into curves or L's. After a few applications I just snip the end off for a fresh end.

I have to admit the GMM set in 400th for my SS US has really taxed my eyes and patience, after years of using PE.  I set it aside for now, and am building the Italeri Elco PT.