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Imai Mini Santa Maria

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  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Imai Mini Santa Maria
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Sunday, July 12, 2009 10:37 PM

I decided, after having the kit for almost ten years, to actually start on my little Imai Santa Maria. This model is based on the Santa Maria as envisioned by Bjorn Landstrom in his masterpiece "The Ship". Based upon the information available in Columbus' logs, he drew the ship as a right, proper Catalonian nao, a small southern carrack, using iconographic evidence from the period.
Working backwards from the ships tonnage and the proportions that naos were built during the period (1:2:3. that is 1 = beam, 2 x beam = length of keel and 3 x beam = length between perpendiculars), he arrived at the following dimensions -
26' beam, 55.5' keel and 78.5' pp.
The Imai Santa Maria has a beam of 1.5". A little arithmetic places the scale beam as 1/208. While the other dimensions don't quite square up, they all come close enough to 1/208.
So far, the hull is basically done externally. I replaced the main deck for the most part with .020" sheet of styrene scribed with planking, and using a razor saw lengthwise down in the to produce something like a wood appearance (I know, overdone in this scale). Normally, I'd replace the deck with printed material, with the deck lines drawn on. However, the quarterdeck and poop decks, once detached from the main deck, were still being kept, so for the sake of continuity I chose to reproduce as close as possible that appearance.
This is the model as of the evening of 12 July, 2009. The quarter deck is simply placed up there for the shot. More to come...

 

The Vagabond's Imai Santa Maria  12 July  2009

 

From Imai Santa Maria


(I was tired when I initially typed this... had to go back and edit it...) 

"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Monday, July 13, 2009 1:18 AM
 Vagabond_Astronomer wrote:

Normally, I'd replace the deck with printed material, with the deck lines drawn on.

Hey I do that too!

I'll have to get out Landstrom and ponder how he arrived at his conclusions, but I'm a believer.

  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Monday, July 13, 2009 9:36 AM

Certainly, Landstrom did a good deal of research, but the Martinez-Hidalgo version is by far the best. When Landstrom wrote "Columbus", he modified the design substantially, to the point where it looked more like the M-H version but carrying a southern rig.

Good to see that I'm not the only person who goes the printed deck route! 

"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Friday, July 17, 2009 4:03 PM
From Imai Santa Maria

 

This is my Santa Maria as of 17 July, 2009. Now, on to the masts... 

"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Friday, July 17, 2009 7:45 PM

Beautiful job so far! You are inspiring me to do the same with old Pyro, Heller, and Airfix small sailing ships.

Bill Morrison

  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Sunday, July 19, 2009 8:05 AM

Thanks, Bill!

I've been fighting a headache for the past few days and it has definitely curtailed any more work on the model for now.

I noticed that you and Mr. Tilly were having a discussion about the use of tube cement. For health reasons, I've been using the Testors non-toxic glue for almost three decades. The only stuff I use with any volatile compounds are enamel paints and Testors Dullcoat (I use spray paint as well for space models I build occasionally but seem to be moving away from). Believe it or not, I actually use quite a number of craft store acrylics in my work; I seal the models with  the Dullcoat and it seems to do a good job of keeping the paint from peeling. I don't recommend using these paints on anything that is going to be receiving a good deal of handling, however.

The masts and yards on my little Santa Maria are going to be replaced with wood. This is an old practice of mine dating back to the 1970's, when as a lad going to the local shop I watched as over a few years time the rigging on a beautiful ship (believe it was a first run Marx Sea Witch) slowly warp the yards and masts. Probably other factors at play, but my mind was made up then that wood was better suited, though often I have left the plastic masts on other ships (those wonderful Imai 1/350 tall ships come to mind).

"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Sunday, July 19, 2009 9:08 AM

I also replace plastic masts, yards, and spars with wood for precisely the same reasons. I'm sure that John Tilley would agree, even for such a small scale.

Bill Morrison

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Sunday, July 19, 2009 12:02 PM

When I started building sailing ships I was too young to know better, so I got used to  plastic spars.  I suspect quite a few of my early efforts had masts, yards, and booms that were bent hilariously out of alignment, but neither I nor the various people who swooned over my models noticed (or admitted it if they did).

My inclination nowadays is to think that styrene spars are perfectly ok in the case of relatively large-scale models.  The last one I built was the lovely Revell Viking ship (actually an excellent replica of the Gokstad Ship).  After considerable thought I decided to use the mast and yard that came with the kit.  Since almost every plastic part had to be painted in such a way as to make it look like wood, I figured wood spars would stick out like sore thumbs.  The mast was molded in halves; the yard in one piece.  They worked fine.

In the case of a smaller-scale model, though, I certainly advocate replacing plastic spars.  The big question then is what sort of wood to use.  The dowels carried by hobby shops and hardware stores these days seem to be two species, oak and birch.  I have the impression that some of the suppliers send them to the dealers without discriminating between the two species; I've seen oak and birch dowels side-by-side in the racks at the local Lowe's store.  I'd advise against oak, because the grain is too coarse.  Birch is a pretty nice wood for the purpose as long as the grain runs parallel to the length of the dowel.  (If it doesn't, you're likely to encounter a major problem with warping down the road.)  It's a bit on the flexible side, which is an advantage when you're turning it to size but a disadvantage when you're setting up the rigging.  (A birch spar that's 1/32" in diameter will bend almost as easily as a styrene one.) 

My next-to-most recent model is the nineteenth-century pilot boat Phantom.  It's based on a Model Shipways kit with a cast resin hull.  (MS quit selling it in that form shortly after I bought mine.  I think that's a shame; I have a few criticisms of that particular hull, but I think the designers were on the right track.  A Forum search on "Model Shipways Phantom" will turn up quite a few interesting posts about it, from several people.)  I made the spars for that one out of cherry.  Cherry dowels can be bought from woodworking supply companies, such as Woodcraft:  http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=50B01&FamilyID=667 .  Cherry is nice stuff - pretty easy to turn, stiff, and amenable to a good finish.  The only problem is that, for some specific purposes, it's a little dark in color.  (And it gets darker with age.)

For my previous two major models, H.M.S. Bounty (based on the ancient Revell kit) and the Continental Frigate Hancock (scratchbuilt), I used a wood called degame for the spars.  It's an extremely hard, extremely fine-grained wood from the West Indies.  I believe it's called lancewood in some quarters.  I bought it from a dealer who went out of business about 25 years ago; I'd have no idea where to buy the stuff now.  It's so stiff that it's sometimes downright brittle.  I lost track of how many pieces of it I broke in the process of turning them town to size.  But I'm pretty happy with the results - and both of those models have held up quite well for about thirty years now.  Here are some pictures:  http://www.hmsvictoryscalemodels.be/johntilleygallery.htm .

I think one of the big problems with the sailing ship kit market is that the manufacturers insist (largely for financial reasons, I'm sure) on standardizing the materials in a given kit.  Injection-molded styrene plastic is a great medium for many components of a sailing vessel, and lousy for others.  Nobody but the geniuses at Imai has ever figured out how to make a rigid molde produce a block or deadeye with a hole through it and a groove around it.  And styrene is, except on large scales, a wretched material for masts and yards.  In my opinion (for what little it's worth), the ideal sailing ship kit would contain parts made of a wide variety of materials.  (Unfortunately it would also be so expensive that the company producing it probably would go broke in a matter of weeks.)

Acrylic "craft paints" are a recent, delightful discovery for me; I found out about them when my wife took up the hobby of rock painting.  (Don't laugh.  It's great fun.)  The range of browns, greys, reds, and yellows carried by our local Michael's Arts and Crafts store is fantastic.  There are more browns and beiges in the three lines Michael's carries than you'll find in most model paint lines.  And the prices, by comparison with Poly-Scale, Testor's, etc. are fantastically cheap. 

I became a nearly-whole-hearted convert to acrylics many years ago, when Poly-S was new on the scene.  On its initial arrival at the hobby shop where I was working it didn't sell well, so the boss gave up on it - and gave me the rack and all the bottles that hadn't sold.  At first I didn't like it much; the brush techniques I'd cultivated for enamels didn't work so well with it.  But I slowly started to realize that, handled with care and patience, it was capable of producing beautiful results.  I also started noticing that, whereas I'd previously been in the habit of spending two or three hours at the workbench, I was now getting irritated if I had to quit and go to bed after five or six hours.  I suddenly realized that the smells of turpentine, laquer thinner, dio-sol, etc. had been getting to me.  That did it.  Since then I've used acrylics almost exclusively. 

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
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  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Sunday, July 19, 2009 6:43 PM

John, your model work is inspiring. Great stuff there.

I think that the two piece plastic masts fare better than one piece if only due to basic physics, though I can't be certain.

The folks over at Imai had perfected a plastic for their larger sailing ship models that had a feel like wood. Their great Catalan ship (a 1/2 scale replica of the Mataro nao model) was one good example of this; the kit had heft. On a microscopic scale, it was as if the plastic was porous. I wonder if Aoshima will produce the old Imai kits the same way (they need to justify those extortionate prices with me. $35 for the 1/208 Santa Maria? Come now). Anyway, their masts, regardless of scale, never seemed to warp. Incidentally, Imai did produce some true mix medium kits, incorporating wood and plastic for a short time in the late 1970's. 

My reasons for replacing these masts, though, have to do with their size (a little too thin). I'm also doing away with the kits yards, as they are attached to the heavy molded plastic sails, which I also plan to replace. I've found some good birch doweling,  though I will probably turn the masts from basswood, which I have plentiful and have worked with in the past. Just requires a little more work to make them look right. When I get to that juncture I'll post the pics. 

Should be fairly soon... 

"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Monday, July 20, 2009 1:58 AM

Many thanks for the nice comments.

It stands to reason that a hollow, two-piece plastic mast would be reasonably sturdy - if it isn't warped or otherwise distorted to begin with.  I've seen photos here in the Forum of some pretty disastrously warped parts that have turned up in recently-produced Heller and Revell kits.  The culprits, I think, are three:  the age of the molds, the quality of the plastic, and - most important by far - lack of quality control.

Imai was, indeed, one of the most progressive and enthusiastic of plastic kit manufacturers.  That odd, slightly-metallic looking plastic was remarkable stuff: it seemed capable of being molded in extremely thick cross-sections, without being subject to warping or sink marks.  Oh, what the Revell Constitution and the Heller Victory would look like if their hull halves were of scale thickness....And the trick for molding deadeyes - with holes through them and grooves around them - had the potential of revolutionizing the ship model fitting business (such as it is).  It apparently utilized "slide mold" technology that was years, if not decades, ahead of its time.  And how often does one encounter the complaint that the spars of a plastic ship kit are too thin?

I'd be interested in an objective analysis, by somebody with access to inside information, of why Imai failed.  My guess is that there were lots of reasons, but that one of them was that the company was too adventurous for its own good.  In a recent Forum thread Epinniger described an old Imai catalog he'd found:  /forums/1159032/ShowPost.aspx .  As he points out, one has to wonder whether offering SIX Cutty Sark kits in various media was actually a good idea (especially in the Japanese market, which presumably was crucial to the company's success).  And though I personally applaud the "mixed media" approach, Imai sometimes took it to lengths that were downright bizarre.  I once got a look, in a hobby shop, at an Imai H.M.S. Victory.  It was about 18" long - comparable to the Airfix and Revell plastic kits.  It had wood spars, photo-etched brass decks, and cast, white metal hull halves.  The hull halves were quite crude by the standards of plastic kits.  And the kit cost about $200 (in the late seventies).  I couldn't see any earthly reason for a rational modeler to buy this thing in preference to the Revell or Airfix plastic kit - which at that time cost about a tenth as much.  I suspect that kit was, in terms of sales, a colossal dud.  How many such stunts can a manufacturer pull before it starts suffering financially?

Dr. Graham, in his book on the history of Monogram, offers a faint hint of another problem Imai apparently had.  Monogram, it will be remembered, distributed a few of the Imai sailing ships in Monogram boxes for a little while.  According to Dr. Graham, the original molds for those kits got shipped from Japan to the U.S.  The steel from which they were made was so soft that the Monogram production run damaged them; they had to be "repaired" (which must have been quite an expensive process) before they went back to Japan.   

I haven't bought any of the Aoshima reissues; the prices are just too much for me.  I can't afford to shell out a hundred dollars for a kit that I may or may not ever get around to building; my stash is already far too big.  (Just ask my wife.)  I'm glad these kits aren't being allowed to vanish into the mists of senile memories like mine, but I have to wonder if Aoshima isn't shooting itself in the foot with those prices. 

A few years ago I did buy the Academy reissue of the Imai "Roman warship," with the intention of building it with my grandson.  (It turned out to be too complicated for that purpose; we ended up with a superb Tamiya dinosaur.)  That particular kit was, I think, one of Imai's earlier efforts, and it has some major problems in terms of accuracy.  (The arrangement of the oars just doesn't make sense.)  But as an example of the art and technology of ship kit manufacturing it's exquisite.  The "wood grain" is super, the little deadeyes are amazing, and the parts fit beautifully.  Even the injection-molded "sail" is better than most; it has a believable shape and texture, and the edges of it are thinned down so its unavoidably out-of-scale thickness isn't obvious.  And dig those "gold-plated" lions on the base!  It certainly looks like Academy retained all that was necessary to manufacture it to Imai's standards.  Whether Aoshima is maintaining those standards I have no idea.

I'd also be interested to find out what, if any, impact the demise of Imai had on other plastic kit manufacturers.  It happened within a few years of the time when the three relatively big players in the plastic sailing ship world - Revell, Airfix, and Heller - dropped out.  (Pyro and Aurora, the only other firms who ever showed much interest in sailing ships, were gone by then.  Revell Germany has produced a few new sailing ships since then, but the last one from Revell of the U.S., according to Dr. Graham's book, was the Viking ship, which was originally released in 1977.  That was 21 years after the company's first sailing ship, the 1/192 Constitution.  Revell of the U.S. has now been out of the sailing ship game more than twice as long as it was in it.)  None of the big Japanese manufacturers seems ever to have demonstrated any interest in this particular field.  It's interesting - if a little depressing - to think of a Tamiya Flying Cloud or a Hasegawa whaleship.  If Imai's reach hadn't exceeded its grasp, would the plastic sailing ship kit be such a thing of the past today?  One can only wonder.

 

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 20, 2009 10:10 AM
Wow, that is really nice work...where did you find such a small-scale kit?
  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Monday, July 20, 2009 8:58 PM

I've had this kit for about 10+ years. Not a lot of small scale sailing ship models made these days. I think Airfix might resurrect a few, Aoshima has brought back part of the Imai line (at astronomical prices, I might add) and Lindberg has the old Pyro dies and a few of those kits are being brought back, though to be honest they are possibly the worse of the lot. Heller has a few as well.

I agree with John, but since I prefer small scales, I'd be more than happy to see one of the more modern companies produce 1/350 - 1/400 sailing ships. I can at least dream... 

"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Sunday, July 26, 2009 11:01 PM

Finally got around to the mainmast. New mast is made from birch doweling, hand turned with dark brown paper wooldings. New, better though still somewhat simple trestle-trees added. In these images, the mast is temporarily stepped.

 

Here's the top temporarily fitted...

 

From Imai Santa Maria
"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 27, 2009 8:56 AM
...nice work!
  • Member since
    January 2006
Posted by EPinniger on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 12:09 PM

Excellent work! You've done some very impressive detailing for such a small model (looking forward to see the rigging Big Smile [:D] )

Seeing the design of the small Imai Santa Maria has given me ideas of modifying the Revell kit based on Landstrom's design. The forecastle in particular makes the whole thing look much more "seaworthy".

  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 9:25 PM

Why, thank you!

I'm going to be doing the rigging in wire of various gauges (a la Hunnisett, McNarry. McCaffery. et al).  I've picked up the pieces to make a ratline/shroud jig; will post more on that once I build it up.

Also, I may have to deviate from my goal of building just a straightfoward interpretation. As can be expected with what is essentially an artistic interpretation, some details are missing. More to the point; the halyards and knighthead  arrangement are simply not shown. But in Landstrom's second Santa Maria there is one. So, I've decided to use that design on this model.

"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 12:30 AM

When you're building miniature ships, you have to anticipate rigging demands if you are using wire. Here, I made a mistake; I needed to go back and install a knighthead. I carved one from basswood, 1/16" square by 1/2" in length (if I do this again, it will surely be a harder wood like box or holly, what I used to make detail parts out of). A matching block was made, also the 1/16" stock, 1/8" long. 28 gauge copper wire was used for the ties, 32 gauge for the halyards. The halyards will be squeezed in a little bit to clean it up.

Next, onto the remaining masts and then the standing rigging.

From Imai Santa Maria

From Imai Santa Maria

"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 9:04 PM

The more I look at the model, the worse that knighthead and block look. Poor choice of materials; basswood, normally better for larger details.

I'm going to remove them and replace them with plastic components instead. This really isn't killing the spirit of the project, as it is primarily a plastic model.  However, I really need something that can be drilled and to actually take those halyards instead of just having them glued into shallow indentations.

"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 11:07 PM

This is the result; new knighthead and block (from styrene), this time with the halyards led through -

 

From Imai Santa Maria

From Imai Santa Maria

"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Thursday, July 30, 2009 2:37 PM

The ratline jig has been cobbled together...

 

From Imai Santa Maria
From Imai Santa Maria
"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Thursday, July 30, 2009 3:00 PM
VAGABOND-ASTRONOMER ---- I remember the older IMAII ships of which you speak .I was , back then quite impressed with their masts and spars . The wood (excuse me) , plastic masts had a wood feel to them to . I was really impressed when I found out you could really stain it !!!! This worked on the decks too. I have a rare one that I don,t remember who made it . It is a clipper YANKEE STERNED ( square stern). It has METAL , slightly textured and painted decks !!! I am missing the foredeck . The rigging was toast but I was able to salvage most of it . I am going to build it With a homemade metal foredeck and wood masts and spars . Someone at ALAMO SQUADRON /I.P.M.S. of TEXAS that it was either an IDEAL kit or a very OLD LINDBERG kit.WHO knows ? The best part is the taffrail and all that type of stuff is separate parts (you know ) separate stantions and rails to top them with . Quite unique if it is what they say .Well , bye for now ----tankerbuilder
  • Member since
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  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Thursday, July 30, 2009 4:59 PM
That would be the Marx Sea Witch kit; Lindberg makes it now, sans metal deck and with some fit problems. But sadly, the only large American clipper ship model in plastic. I had the "Swordfish" version of that kit, only just started on it and let it go, and miss it sorely...
"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Friday, July 31, 2009 12:12 AM

The masts are up, the mainstay rigged...

 

From Imai Santa Maria
From Imai Santa Maria
From Imai Santa Maria
From Imai Santa Maria
From Imai Santa Maria
From Imai Santa Maria
From Imai Santa Maria
"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: Jacksonville, Florida
Posted by Vagabond_Astronomer on Wednesday, August 5, 2009 9:22 AM

I worked until 2am last night setting up the shrouds and ratlines.

From Imai Santa Maria

 I punched circular deadeyes. They should be heartblocks, however at 5/64" this is the best I could do lacking my old custom made punch.

From Imai Santa Maria

 The lanyards still need to be attached (probably this evening).

From Imai Santa Maria

Now I can finish up the much simpler remaining standing rigging.

 

From Imai Santa Maria
"I have loved the stars too dearly to be fearful of the night..."
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Thursday, August 6, 2009 7:02 PM
Wow! What beautiful little gem!

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

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