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  • Member since
    November 2005
water.
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, December 15, 2003 7:42 PM
hehehe. prob. the hardest single natural element to re-create for a diorama is water, i knw that white glue works, only problem, its takes three years for a pond to dry clear. any hints clues, suggestions, or help would be appreciated.
im thinking about putting this pibber in a diorama.
thx .
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, December 15, 2003 7:53 PM
There are a few other options:

1.) EZ-Water: Heat the beads to melt them than pour the liquid into your base.
You might need to build walls to contain the "Water" till it is set.
Can be resoftened by using a gas-torch ( to eliminate bubbles) and than shaped or carved, etc.
Drawback, it will always have a slight yellow colouring.
Hint:
Don't try to paint the "water" won't work, you will need to paint the base for the appr. colour and than pour the water over it. Also helps achieve a depth effect.
Most Model Railroad stores will carry it and it is fairly cheap.

2.) Clear acrylics: Variety of stuff out there, mix and pour like above.
Advantage less to no heat generation and thus less change of warping the base. You know the stuff they make for clear amulets/paperweights/etc with stuff "floating" in them. Fiberclass supply store should have it.

3.) Clear Resins: Like above, but generates more heat and easily traps air-bubbles in it.

All of the above will seldom try 100% with no discolouration, but allow you to pour it in layers(might be visible from side).

Over here got a similar product to EZ-Water that tries 100% clear and also is available in blue and green with colour stick to adjust the colour.
It comes in like a jelly block, used it once and worked well.
Problem: VERY EXPENSIVE.

Forgot also check the local arts supply store, they might have a product that will also dry clear.

Hope this helps.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, December 15, 2003 9:42 PM
wow..thanks...i was thinking of using white glue, which dries clear, and do that in layers... your ideas sound more appropriate... thx again
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, December 15, 2003 9:48 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by THAPRINCE

wow..thanks...i was thinking of using white glue, which dries clear, and do that in layers... your ideas sound more appropriate... thx again


I prefer acyrlic gel over white glue, also dries clear and quicker I think. It is commonly used by airline modelers to fill windows when there are no clear part supplied.

Acrylic gel will work well for small amounts like puddles and the like.
I often colour it for 1/6 filled glasses or bottles in Anime diorama.
Liquitex is one make that makes it in different thicknesses.

EZ-Water is made by Woodland scenic and the 16fl oz package should set you back about 7~9 USD.

All the best on your Diorama, the pibber is a nice kit.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 7:32 AM
EZ Water will melt plastic. Trust me. LOL!

If you pour it around a ship you will end up with
a pile of gloop.

Acrylic Gel Medium works well. It has the consistancy
of tooth paste and you ou put it on in layers. Drys clear.
Paint the base blue or whatever, and then you can also
paint the gel. Dry brushing white caps, etc...

James Smile [:)]
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by Jeff Herne on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 11:46 AM
I wrote an article on how to create realistic water using gel medium.

It's in the How-To section of Modelwarships.com

Regards,

Jeff
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 2:07 PM
I read Jeff's excellent article and used his recommendation in combination with another great tip if you are creating a large body of water for dios. I created two carrier dios (1/540 & 1/700) mounted on 2.5 cherry bases. Planning is key. Lay out your ship hull and trace the outline on your mounting board. Then you create a foundation of "wave" and "wake" patterns around the outline tracing using "Sculplay" modeling clay (found at most hobby stores). Caution you need to bake the clay so you must plan to "mount" your model after the clay is cured. The waves can be shaped to really awesome action packed patterns. You paint the cured waves to reflect the body of water being depicted. The Atlantic tends to have more green hues - the Pacific more blue. After painting the clay use Jeff's technique - Acrylic Gel Medium to give depth, variations in wave color and action to your piece. Complete your model and then mount it in the opening you traced out in the Sculplay. You can use the Acrylic Gel to help hold the ship in place. When it drys (appprox 24 hrs) You can paint the area to match the surrounding waves. You can dry brush details and don't forget to add the white caps. Finish with several applications of "Future" acrylic floor polish. This really kick off the luster and the water really looks "wet" (no pun intended). This is a rather brief version of the techniques but it does really work well. Give it a shot. Experiment. Have fun.

Regards
Moderator
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by Matthew Usher on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 4:08 PM
Gang,

Keep an eye out for the March 2004 FSM (which is currently in production here at FSM HQ). It'll have a nice four-page feature by Bob Santos on modeling water for dioramas.

Matt Usher @ FineScale Modeler
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