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Don Stauffer Problem with Elmers or other white glue is if you need to sand it. It does not sand well at all. If you don't want to use putty, try thickened (gel) CA. It will sand when cured.
Problem with Elmers or other white glue is if you need to sand it. It does not sand well at all. If you don't want to use putty, try thickened (gel) CA. It will sand when cured.
Caution using CA as a filler. You will need to sand & rescribe within a short time of application. If you wait, even overnight, the CA will cure to be harder than the surrounding plastic. Sanding/scribing will be difficult and you'll run the hazard of destroying detail.
Glue Mark Thanks Don. I've been mostly an aircarft builder, and seams are much easier to deal with there. I'll try the Elmer's, I use it on my PE jobs. R.
Thanks Don. I've been mostly an aircarft builder, and seams are much easier to deal with there. I'll try the Elmer's, I use it on my PE jobs.
R.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
If I can improve the joint by trimming deck edge, I do so first. Then, on to the putty. Of course, this is one of the most difficult puttying problems in scale modeling. I take my time, do a little at a time, scrape it as smooth and flush as possible to minimize sanding/scraping. Yeah, it is a pain, but one of those necessary things.
I sometimes put a piece of styrene strip stock in an area that has a big gap, width equal to deck thickness. This minimizes amount of putty.
Evening Everyone!
Not the seals with flippers, but I'd like to know what do some of you do to seal up those pesky seams between the level 0 deck pieces? Trumpeter seems to look for ways to have them visible, instead of hiding them under superstructure like Tamiya, and minimizing exposure.
Thanks, Rusty
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