Glue - which, why and technique

Dave,

I use CA (medium viscosity) for just about everything unless there's a seam involved, in which case I use a MEK based Tenax 7R to weld the joints together.

The old styrene glue, unless applied in huge gobs, doesn't melt the plastic together. Neither does CA, but the tensile strength is far great than that of dried styrene glue.

I use white glue for seam filling when I don't want to destroy surrounding detail, and I've also started using acrylic gel medium as well.

For rigging in smaller scales, and on modern (non-sailing) ships, I use monofilament with CA. For sailing ships, I still use cotton line run through beeswax. In some instances, I'll use surgical silk, which, although expensive, is great stuff for rigging.

That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it.

Jeff Herne
Modelwarships.com

Dave, shipbuilding is like any other type of woodworking project in that you use the type of fastener that will accomplish the finished result. For framing areas that require a lot of strength and will endure strain, I use 30 minute epoxy. I use CA for tacking short term joints, white metal/brass/gold foil, and resin and also as a filler. For planking, if its nail on, then I use CA for tacking. If not, then I use good ol Carpenters Wood Glue (Lately I've been using Gorrillia Glue since is claims not to breakdown over time) since it is so easy to work with and cleans up really well since you will not want any on the finished product if you are going to stain the model.

Scott

Dave:
I use either epoxy or carpenter's yellow for most of the wood work. For coppering hulls you can use either Ambroid cement or contact cement (I personally like the Ambroid better but it is sometimes hard to find).
For setting down rigging knots I like carpenter's white glue because it dries clear and doesn't give the rigging a 'crazed' look as CA sometimes does.
CA for tacking or small non structural assemblies.

Regards,
Bruce

"That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it." Jeff, sounds like your usin' too much CA

Thanks guys. Just wanted to be sure I don't screw up my first tall ship!

Sounds like I should keep doin' what I've been doin'. In my woodshop...
Titebond II yellow glue is what I use for furniture joints. TIP:Dampen (do not saturate) the wood first to open the pores then apply the glue. I use a fine mist spray bottle.
Elmers white glue being a polyvinyl acetate (PVA) drys clear and works for many applications where strength is not the primary concern. TIP: A color pigment (you can get it from art supply sotres) can be added before application to achieve the desired color so that painting is not required.
CA, I've found works well on plastics and those types of material. TIP: Use a sewing needle - eye end - to apply for tacking. The eye will hold a very small amount then when touched to another surface it will "wick" onto the other surface.
I use contact cement to apply flexible materials to a hard surfaces, such as fabric or carpeting to wood.
I use epoxy to adhere metal to wood such as brass knobs to drawer faces etc.

I've seen "Gorillia" brand glue but haven't tried it. I haven't had too many gorilla's to glue back together recently.
I went to www.gorillaglue.com and read up on their product. Sounds good. I'm going to get some next time I go to my local DIY and try it.

Via Google search engine I found pics of Ambroid cement. What is the skull and crossbones caution?

I hadn't thought of using acrylic gel as a filler. I know some artists use it in their paints. Sounds like a good idea. How do you apply it, with a dental tool, flat toothpick or ??

"I use 30 minute epoxy." Is there a specific reason to use 30 minute vice say 10 minute which is what I've been using? Or do you just have more patience than I.

I've stayed away from Tenax 7R as it is MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) based.

QUOTE: From Air Toxics Website Methyl ethyl ketone is used as a solvent. Acute (short-term) inhalation exposure to methyl ethyl ketone in humans results in irritation to the eyes, nose, and throat. Limited information is available on the chronic (long-term) effects of methyl ethyl ketone in humans. Chronic inhalation studies in animals have reported slight neurological, liver, kidney, and respiratory effects.

I have asthma and the inhalation of MEK does my lungs in. I also have a neurological issue that they think may be caused from extended exposure to MEK when I was younger. My brain cells are dying at a faster rate than re-growth. My doctor, at Barrow's Neurological Institute (BNI), told me that I should expect my name to be called up yonder in about 5 years. NO violins please! I plan to finish my train layout, the Flying Cloud kit I just purchased and scratch build the USS constitution before roll-call.

I haven't used cotton string for any of my projects and the mention of beeswax made me start thinking of rigging line. Should all rigging line be waxed? If so, does the white glue hold waxed line okay or should the rigging be waxed after stringing? What does the beeswax do for the line?

The beeswax prevents the lines from fraying.

JH

Hi Dave, Ambroid now makes a non-toxic liquid cement that is so tame you can drink it, however, I think the stuff that made it toxic also made it work, since this bottle I bought doesn't seem to work worth beans. I still like Testors non-toxic for plastic. Also, there is also non-toxic CA on the market.

In regards to rigging, beeswax is the way to go since it allows the thread to handle better. I generally just beeswax my running rigging since I tea dye, or paint, and then laquer my standing rigging. They make a nice beeswax applicator that you can buy at the fabric store and you run the thread through it before applying it to the model. Also check out the the sporting goods store and look at obtaining a fly-tying loom and thread holder. The thread holder is great because you don't have to worry about unraveling and rolling up thread, and the loom becomes a third set of hands and is great when threading shrouds or laying up your standing rigging.

I use 30 minute expoxy when setting up my masts, spars, and booms so I have time to adjust them while it is drying. I also use 5 and 10 minute as well. Just not as much on a ship.

Just a reminder if you don't already do this - become familiar with your local fabric store and beauty supply dealer. A lot of your rigging supplies will come from these two sources. Wholesale beauty supply shops have a great selection of scissors, tweezers, adhesives, brushes, and sanding instruments and cost less that hobby suppliers.

Scott

Nice tips you guys. I didn't know about dying the white glue, I'll be sure to try that from now on.

I haven't tried the'new' Ambroid, sounds like I might have to switch to contact cement next time I copper.

Another good tool that you will find in your significant other's sewing kit is a needle threader; great for getting lines through blocks.

Good luck with the build,
Bruce

BTW Scott, I like your signature block. Although I've tried again and again it still smells like my monitor.