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Metal barrels worth cost?

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  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Philippines
Posted by constructor on Tuesday, December 28, 2010 4:36 PM

From Day 1 when I started building ships, I have been looking for ways to improve the pieces of plastics that  pretend to be guns. The big guns (16" and the Yamato 18") are not that bad. The 5"  looked like cut off toothpicks. It has improved a lot now though. But the metal barrels are I think the best thing that happened to ship modelling. The models now also has blast bags (Destroyers and 5 inch turrets) . I have seen the metal barrels in model ships and they really looked good.

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Tuesday, December 28, 2010 12:18 PM

And while it is true that the main battery guns on warships are typically kept "capped" with a plug called a tampion (which usually had some kind of decoration like a star or other design on it), modelers typically leave the barrel ends open because, well, it just looks cooler. My  2 cents

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Sunday, December 26, 2010 6:19 PM

I think it's always worth a look. And it depends on the kit. In this case, IMO the brass takes an "8" and makes it a "10".

The kit barrel, the brass barrel, and a pair of barrels from another kit, that are much more the norm and definitely need replacing.

As for the barrel muzzles being open,  that's a matter of taste. If they were plugged, which is normally the case, the secondary armament would probably have canvas sleeves over the barrels, and the lighter guns would be entirely covered. Casement guns would have their ports closed and so on. We all like our battleships modeled cleared for action.

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Sunday, December 26, 2010 1:13 PM

Two very good points for the deficit spending argument. Haven't examined Mikasa yet, but no doubt a hole in the barrel would be sweet. (Didn't they keep the main guns plugged up unless ready for fire? I've never seen that on a model. Maybe I dreamt it.) A job today will be to see if it's feasible to drill a little out of the tip of the main guns or Iron Duke - they're screwy as they stand and need major league sanding anyway. On second look, the aluminum gun in my armored car does have a little bore and that's nice. Ive found out you can buy just the guns and not the extra zillion PE pieces - that might be a good way to go. (Lion Roar has 300 PE pieces: not in my life I don't think. White Ensign has one fret and the basics.)  

Thankee for input.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    November 2010
Posted by Firedeck on Sunday, December 26, 2010 12:43 PM

It can vary, but I often find the metal barrels are better shaped (flared), less thick and more realistic than their styrene counterparts. A main barrel set for 350 battleship for instance is about $12 plus postage. Its up your norwegian sense of value if its there for you.   

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Sunday, December 26, 2010 9:00 AM

The answer, for me, is - It depends.

I'm a 1/700 ship guy and primarily build auxilaries; the biggest gun I've tackled to date is a 5-incher, so no, I haven't gone the metal barrel route because I didn't think the hideous cost was worth the result in that scale.

That said, in 1/700 or 1/600, if you're building a battleship or something similar, I think the appearance of the open muzzels of the large main guns can materially enhance the overall look and feel of a capital ship, especially if some of the guns are elevated up so it is plain that the barrels are open. Would I go whole hog and get metal barrels for all of the secondary batteries on a 1/700 battleship? Heckkkkkkk no. My 2 cents

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Central Wisconsin
Posted by Spamicus on Saturday, December 25, 2010 10:53 PM

I build primarily tanks in 1/35 scale and as a general rule I won't buy a gun tube for a tank that doesn't have a bore evacuator or muzzle brake. That said most naval guns don't have either; so if you're satisfied with the kit tubes don't spend the money. On the other hand if the kit tubes are badly out of round or have big honkin' seems, metal tubes may save time and heartache. In the end it really depends on your opinion. 2 cents

Steve

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: Heart of the Ozarks, Mansfield, MO (AKA, the 3rd world)
Posted by Rich on Saturday, December 25, 2010 8:34 PM

Painting? That seems a shame. There are a number of different metal finishes that will produce a gun barrel that cannot be matched by plastic. (ducks quickly to avoid the many thrown rotten vegetables Black Eye )

Rich

Nautical Society of Oregon Model Shipwrights

Portland Model Power Boat Association

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 25, 2010 5:25 PM

Based on reading your entire post, I's advise that you skip 'em...

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Metal barrels worth cost?
Posted by EBergerud on Saturday, December 25, 2010 5:23 PM

Santa brought me a Hasegawa Mikasa. I'm happy. I've done three ship models after a very long lay off and feel it's time to give PE a try (got some from White Ensign for my Iron Duke along with generic 700/600/350 WWII railings & ladders.) Assuming catastrophe doesn't happen (not a solid assumption) and I get the hang of some basic PE work, I'll want something for Mikasa. 

The detail sets for this kit vary greatly in complexity and price. And I rather doubt I'll ever be a purist - I just agree that ships need railings, hatch covers and pretty funnels. One item that drives up the price is metal barrels. I've only used one - a 20mm gun on a German armored car. I have to admit that when painted, it looked a lot like a painted plastic barrel to me. (I don't leave seams.) What about a ship? Hasegawa makes good kits in my experience. Would their guns be improved by metal replacements to the degree that anyone (except me) would notice? If not, I could get the basic White Ensign or Eduard PE and save $40-25 over Lion Roar or Hasegawa's own detail set. If metal guns are a major enhancement, I'll get them. I do not mind spending money - but waste to someone with Norwegian blood is something like sin. We all carry our little burdens.

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

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