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Attaching PE railing in 700th scale..

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  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: N. Georgia
Attaching PE railing in 700th scale..
Posted by Jester75 on Sunday, January 9, 2011 11:23 PM

What is the recomendation of the masters here in the ships forum on attaching this stuff, its sooooo fine and delicate.

Eric

 

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by Harshman II on Sunday, January 9, 2011 11:36 PM

Jester75

What is the recomendation of the masters here in the ships forum on attaching this stuff, its sooooo fine and delicate.

 

I am not master but I uses super glue to do the job.

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: N. Georgia
Posted by Jester75 on Sunday, January 9, 2011 11:39 PM

That is what I've been using with mixed results on my Scharnhorst. Just wondering if there is a better way.

Eric

 

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by Harshman II on Monday, January 10, 2011 12:05 AM

Jester75

That is what I've been using with mixed results on my Scharnhorst. Just wondering if there is a better way.

Super glue drys very fast and they are very strong. So apply abit on certain parts will hold it well.

Problem arises when you apply alot of glues to whole contact part and it will look messy.

  • Member since
    September 2010
Posted by potchip on Monday, January 10, 2011 5:00 AM

Use different types of superglues.

Use jelly type to position and attach railings, they dry slower. Simply dip bottom of railing to a drop or so of the jelly stuff and attach. Also do not try attach large sections at once, start out using shorter lengths eg 5-8cm. PE being metal expand and contract at different rates to the plastic underneath, so if you attach long lengths, even if it was even and snug when first glued, as temperature changes the railing will warp due to expand/shrinkage of the plastic underneath unless glue was applied on the entire length.

Normal superglue has water-like consistency and dries fast, therefore they can be used to 'fill up' gaps between the glue spots if you want extra strength, much like how you apply thin cements, as long as you have a good applicator (thin needle etc)

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Monday, January 10, 2011 6:44 AM

First of all,  resist the temptation to do the entire side of the model with one piece of railing just because you have a piece that long.  Break up the runs into 1 to 3-inch lengths.   Find logical breakpoints;  ladder breaks,  bulkheads, gun tubs,  previous rail lengths, etc.

I often recommend a PVA glue such as Aleene's Tacky Glue to tack the railing runs into place

 

It is a craft store item.   Place a pencil-point dot of glue on each end and additional dots every 1/2 inch.   Position the rail and allow to dry.    The glue grabs quickly yet allows the time to refine the placement of the part.  This glue is water soluable, allowing cleanup of mistakes with some water on a QTip.  Once the PVA glue is dry,  go back and lay a bead of CA along the bottom of the railing to permanently attach the part.

 

My favorite glue tip for delivering a fine bead of CA are made by following the instructions here at Resin Shipyard.  http://resinshipyard.com/pages/tip_pages/glue_tips.html    Darren at RS will also sell you some of these glue tips if the process is too much for you.

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by sumter III on Monday, January 10, 2011 8:27 AM

I use Gator Glue to set my rails, then reinforce with super glue if needed.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, January 10, 2011 8:32 AM

I use white glue (like Elmers, etc.) thinned 50% with water. I used to use CA, until a guy demonstrated white glue at a club meeting.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: N. Georgia
Posted by Jester75 on Monday, January 10, 2011 9:36 AM

Wow, thanks for the all the advice!! I will give them a try although it will be a couple of days before I can get the craft store glue as we woke up to about 9 inches of snow here this morning!!

Eric

 

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Monday, January 10, 2011 2:18 PM

Jester75, you disappoint me ... a mere 9-inches of snow is going to keep you from your sacred duty????? Get out the snowshoes!!!!! 

Just kidding. I personally use CA glue because I want the railings to stay on, but I use one of the thicker gel types because it gives me a lot of working time. I use pacer brand Sheet Zap in the blue bottle, no. PT-30, and run a very fine bead along the bottom of each length of railing with a tootpick before installing it, then use the same toothpick to nudge it into place. Here is a link:  http://www.zapglue.com/Zap%20X.html

  • Member since
    April 2006
Posted by Irish3335 on Friday, January 14, 2011 11:19 PM

Hi Jester75,

doing a 1/350 SMS Konig, and just finished the railing - I dont know how I figured this out, but it works great - I do all the colors, decks, grey sides etc.  I line the railings up, and hold them in position with small strips of tape (Tamiya tape works great, just cut it to size).  Once you are happy with the position, use a small amount of the ships color to hold it down - when it dries, it holds on very well, you dont have the shiny look of superglue, and it fills in minor gaps really well.  I have done some pretty complex shapes with this technique, and I am pretty happy with it.  Good luck

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Saturday, January 15, 2011 2:19 AM

Inspired thought- what kind of paint is your "ships color"?

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: N. Georgia
Posted by Jester75 on Saturday, January 15, 2011 7:25 AM

That does sound like a pretty cool idea irish. How do you keep the tape from pulling the railings back off? Bondo, if you were asking me that question, I'm using some MM acrylics.

Eric

 

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