Solid ladders of ships

Aztec staircases! I never use a dremel in plastic, so I would use a set of side cutters like Xuron makes- chop out the middle with a horizontal and a vertical cut and then shave off the rest. It sure helps to mask off the area around for when if the knife slips. And if you are putting a new ladder there, it does not have to be perfect.

In addition, you may find a chisel-edge knife blade handy. Useful for a lot of things, I love them.

(like these - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNU77&P=9 )

You'll find one of these extremely useful too if you don't already have one:

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/squ/squ10203.htm

                                                                                                 Pat.

In 1/350, a chisel edge X-acto blade should do the trick, or even a single-edge razor blade, if you take your time and just scrape away a little at a time. One thing, I would mask the detail around each stair, especially any plank detail on the deck, to avoid inadvertently removing too much of what you want to keep. 

IF you think you are going to be doing a lot of ship models in the future, virtually all of the ship kits have these Aztec stairs. I build in 1/700 and prefer a chisel. Quick, clean, and a few cuts gets the job done. I got mine from Micro Mark: http://www.micromark.com/2mm-Plastic-Modelers-Chisel,8175.html. It may seem pricey but it sure saves a lot of time!

Dremel tools and plastic can find a happy coexistence!  I went to the local LOWE'S and found a Router Speed Controller and when I plugged a single speed Dremel tool into it (It won't work with a variable speed for reasons that escape me) I was able to slow it WAY down.  (as in to a couple hundred, that's right HUNDRED RPM) I used my dremel tool to carve out the plastic in the grille of a 1/48 Lindberg Curtiss Jenny to replace it with a wire grille which meant leaving the edges paper thin and I was instantly a fan because there was absolutely no meltage and the slow speed gave me all the control I could have asked for.  Now, years later, I use the setup only slightly less often than my X-Acto.  You still want the Micro Mark chisel because some things are even too fine for that but I used the Dremel setup to de-ladder the masts and turrets on my 1/200 Arizona (a pricey ship to take risks on but it worked like a charm with a fine sanding disc) but if you are not wishing to make the investment, the Micro Mark chisel is your best bet.

Good luck and I hope I needn't say, please send pics.

I use regular chisels and the Micro Mark chisel tool; pricey but very strong and does a quick job of them Aztec stairs. Get the extra heads to deal with narrower/smaller ladders. I have a stack of PE stairs/ladders of all types to add as needed.  Cheers

Thanks for the tips. Aztec stairs, that's a nice name.

The way I have removed those stairs , (AZTEC stairs) has a nice ring to it ! I start by carving off all the steps leaving an angular wedge shaped piece . Then I use the X-ACTO blade with the step in it (I don,t remember the number) Now at the top make a cut with pressure cut down from the top a little ways Now even with the deck do the same . Now from the side carefully cut out that layer .DON,T cut to deep. you can always smooth the bulkhead behind after you get it completely off .  Now cut another slot top and bottom and do it again. This way you will control the removal not it controlling you .When you are finished use a number 11 blade to clean up the area and smooth it down clean. If you do it right you can then put the P.E. ladders in their places . I don,t think you will have a problem and if there is a little left the P.E. ladder will hide it . When you get that small you can always miss something. That,s normal, you just have to work around it , and I am sure you will .       tankerbuilder