USS Ticonderoga Painting Instructions?

The red hull would be painted in "Norfolk 65A Antifouling Red," which you can obtain from the manufacturer in the UK:

https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/p/Norfolk+65A+Antifouling+Red+US+14/7882/

There are a few US dealers, too, that stock the line; they are not always available, but check:

http://shop.warshiphobbies.com/WWII-US-Navy-Colors_c360.htm

http://www.freetimehobbies.com/

http://www.midtennhobbies.com/

I've ordered from all of the above and all of them give excellent service.

For the proper camouflage measure, go here:

http://www.shipcamouflage.com/usn_cv.htm

You'll see that Ticonderoga wore a couple of different schemes in her career.  WEM Colourcoats paint is available for all the colors you'd need.  If you need more detailed information, do google searches, and you'll probably find photos of the ship and models of the ship to help you paint smaller details. 

http://www.modelshipgallery.com/index1.html

Above is a good source for ship modeling exclusively.

I myself have a 1/700 Ticonderoga in my stash; but I plan to construct her as the Shangri-la if that's possible.

Good luck.

Now, looking around, I'm not sure I gave you good advice.  I was assuming you meant CV-14, but I see that there is also a CG-47 Ticonderoga.  I am not familiar with the Mini Hobby kit.

Sorry for the confusion.

Which Tico? The carrier or the cruiser?

The cruiser, CG-47.  I have another MINIHOBBYMODELS ship the Bismarck, and after looking thru the instructions there it looks like the paint codes are in Chinese.  Thanks for the references.

Well, the "how new" you want to show off the vessel will matter.

There are three (plus one) basic colors--the hull bottom color; the  vertical surfaces gray; and the deck surfaces gray (which is darker).  The plus one color is the even darker color of "non skid" deck surfaces.

Some other, basic to all kits, colors like red and yellow and flat black will also be needful.

This thread might help:

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As will:

[View:/forums/p/7614/60883.aspx#60883:550:0]

Doing an online image search for photos of Tico will reveal all sort of colors and details, and just how much color variation the surfaces have.

The use of red is not related to being on a stand, but in a tradition of using additives to red-oxide paint to help keep marine life from adhering to the hull.  Some newer "bottom" paints are green or blue; US submarines are often dark gray, from panzer to gunship gray.

Thanks CapnMac,  So the red bottom paint actually has a function.  Great info.  I may have mentioned that this is my first ship, so not really up to speed on this area.  Mainly muscle cars, military aircraft and armor.  These 2 ship models were given to me.  Thanks to everybody on the most helpful info.

checkmateking02

Now, looking around, I'm not sure I gave you good advice.  I was assuming you meant CV-14, but I see that there is also a CG-47 Ticonderoga.  I am not familiar with the Mini Hobby kit.

Sorry for the confusion.

I actually have the Mini Hobby Ticonderoga and it is based on the Dragon kit with 90% of the kit being a clone of the Dragon kit and only the hull and associated parts going onto the hull being meant for motorization.

lowrytim

Thanks CapnMac,  So the red bottom paint actually has a function.  Great info.  I may have mentioned that this is my first ship, so not really up to speed on this area.

Ah, well, you may have to be careful then--ship modeling has a very deep end (no pun intended).

There is a huge range of after-market products for ship kits.  A person can easily spend the kit's msrp again on a/m stuff.

Which is further complicated by the fact that ships are not like armor or aircraft or cars. Those are built in hundreds, thousands each; a large run of a given ship type is a dozen or so. 

Consider:  In the century that USN built battleships, they only built 60-someodd.  Even the ones built to a single pattern, 3, or, 4, or 5 at a time each differed, and significantly so.  The Fletcher-class destroyer was built in 6 or 8 different shipyards, and in about six iterations of fit.  You can spot differences in funnel shape, and the like, which stayed unique through the lifespan of the ship.  DD-554 USS Boyd looked significantly  different in 1969 when she transferred to the Turkish navy than when she was built by Bethlehem San Pedro in 1942.

So, you ought, at least, go to google images and look there at the Tico photos.  That will give you a starting point.  Then, you can think about if you want to build CG-47, or one of her 26 similar sisters.  (And there are difference between the BIW and Ingalis-built ships, not quite calling a Camaro a trans-am, more trans am versus IROC t/a.)

have fun.  Any questions, keep asking.

Just remembered that there are a/m decals for Tico non-skid, which can save you some masking.

Thanks CapnMac82,  You bring up some interesting points to consider.  I have not built a model of any type utilizing a/m parts, but want to try it.  Just curious to see what the photo-etched and cast resin deals are all about.  May take a ride on my Harley to Baton Rouge for another visit to the USS Kidd museum and see if any similar ships are in the museum there.  If anyone is close to BR and interested in military ships the trip may be worth it.  I was impressed.  Only about 80 miles for me.   Thanks for the info.