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Photographing the Trafalgar

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  • Member since
    November 2011
Photographing the Trafalgar
Posted by mydogbullet on Thursday, January 5, 2012 9:00 AM

Fellow Modelers, let me tell you what is bothering me today. Below is the 1/350 Airfix kit of the HMS Trafalgar. Great little build and I really worked at getting the seams just right. This is a three piece hull that required filling, filing, sanding, priming - blah, blah, blah - ad nauseum. I assure you, the hull looks great! You can't see that I know, because I am hopelessly inept at photographing my Little Plastic Parts (models I mean) Granted, I am using my iPhone camera (hi tech gadget that it is.) All tips are appreciated! Stay sane fellow modelers.

http://littleplasticparts.tumblr.com/

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, January 6, 2012 9:11 AM

Unfortunately, photographing model ships is a pretty challenging assignment, and best results require something other than cell phones or cheap point-and-shoot cameras.

It is best done with an SLR camera because you should do manual focus for best results.  Many autofocus mechanisms do not do well on closeup photography because they do not have enough smarts to know where to place best focus plane.  On a closeup picture the object will have relatively more depth than in normal photography.  Adjustable cameras can help this by selecting a high relative aperture number, which gives more depth of field, making exact focal plane position less critical.

Lighting is also important.  For the type of photo you are trying, a flat lighting is required, requiring either multiple light sources or a diffuser- like a light tent.  Natural light on a cloudy day also works.

Also, of all genre of models, model ship pictures are the most challenging.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Friday, January 6, 2012 12:22 PM

Agree with Don there, I've found a light tent with 3 lights helps a lot.  1 shiining from the top, 2 from each side.  If you can get a 4th light in front with a diffuser (or just bounce the light off a white piece of cardboard), that would even be better.  Try not to use the flash.

If you are using a point-a-shoot, don't zoom in, too much of the picture will be out of focus, Take a bigger picture and then crop it on the computer.  If you really want the biggest picture of a detail, use the 'macro' feature of your camera (most have it) and just crop out the stuff you don't want later. Hope this helps.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, January 7, 2012 9:48 AM

waikong

snip

If you are using a point-a-shoot, don't zoom in, too much of the picture will be out of focus, Take a bigger picture and then crop it on the computer.  If you really want the biggest picture of a detail, use the 'macro' feature of your camera (most have it) and just crop out the stuff you don't want later. Hope this helps.

There is another reason for not zooming very far, even if you are using high f/# to increase depth of field.  The longer the focal length (amount of zoom or magnification)  the more a camera compresses depth.  In model photography we want to accentuate the feeling of depth (making things look larger).  So shoot at a shorter focal length, say about a 40mm (equivalent 35mm camera FL).

A tip here, if one is shopping for an SLR for model work.  The cheaper Nikon SLRs in kits that include the lens offer a lens that is terrific for model work.  Most macro lenses are macro only on longest focal length.  The kit lens on those Nikons, an 18-55 mm lens, allows macro focus at all focal lengths (zoom amounts).  This is just what you want for impressive model photography.

This mild wide angle shot is used a lot by professional auto photographers when they shoot full-scale cars.  The use of mild wide angle makes the car look bigger and more impressive.  Use in model photography does the same thing.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

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