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Camouflaging the Alababma - need advice!

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  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Wednesday, January 25, 2012 10:10 AM

One thing Bullet-

I recommend lots and lots of tiny pieces of tape. I cut up a whole bunch of 1/4" squares and rough out the shape, then outline it with 2mm Tamiya tape which is flexible enough to do the curves.

Still think a brush would be easier...

  • Member since
    July 2010
  • From: Harlan, Kentucky, U.S.A.
Posted by robtmelvin on Wednesday, January 25, 2012 9:38 AM

I long ago gave up on liquid masks.  Just too temperamental and hard to use with precision.  There is a great section on masking in Mike Ashey's book "Basics of Ship Modeling".  Tedious as masking can be, with a good selection a Tamiya tape widths you can mask about anything.  Also, unless you are doing this for a commission build, use the camo scheme that appeals to you.  I personally don't like the splinter schemes as I feel they hide too much detail.  My personal preference for the U.S. fast BBs is Measure 22.  Take a look at Snyder and Short's ship camo data base, which explains the different schemes and even gives the schemes for each ship in a class for different time periods.

Remember, you are doing this for fun and I preach the heresy that unless somebody else is paying for my kits and supplies, I use the camo scheme that appeals to me the most, even if it isn't 100% accurate.  For instance, I'm currently getting ready to get back to work on Trumpy's 1/350 U.S.S. North Carolina.  Thought not strictly accurate for the time period of the kit, I'm using Measure 22, as I feel it accentuates the lines of the ship better and does not tend to hide detail with dark areas of paint.

Hope this is of some help to you,

Bob

Just launched:  Revell 1/249 U.S.S. Buckley w/ after market PE and guns.

Building: Italieri 1/35 P.T. 596 w/ Lion Roar PE.

  • Member since
    November 2011
Posted by mydogbullet on Sunday, January 22, 2012 11:35 AM

Dear Friends, I just don't think the liquid latex mask will work on the superstructure. it will be too difficult to get it removed from all the details. So,......I have decided to try to mask with painter's tape once again. I removed much of my last effort and went at it again. And while I am not specifically eschewing my overindulgence in the spirit world (and no, I dont mean ghosts or goblins) I did decide to attempt this effort with a clear head, a clean heart and a healthy dose of self-rightousness. The photo below shows my efforts and I do believe that it is an improvement.

Nothing to do now ecept move on to some paint. I am sticking with my new mixing of 3 parts acrylic, 1 part iso alcohol and a few drops retarder. Seems to work great and lets me spray at very low psi of 8-12. Getting started now and will post a photo ASAP! Stay sane fellow modelers.

Follow the adventure on my tumblr blog:

http://littleplasticparts.tumblr.com/

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 10:09 AM

In 1/700 (my preferred scale)  I'd definitely hand brush everything, since trying to mask in that scale would be insane.

In 1/350, my default would still be careful hand brushing, unless someone like Gator Masks already has them done, unless ... Silly Putty or something similar would work? You're looking at a LOT of complex curves, which are going to be awfully hard to get to lay down flat if you use masking tape.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Illinois
Posted by wjbwjb29 on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 10:05 AM

Enlarge the camo pattern from the plans to 350 and make patterns.

 

Bill

On the Bench:   Trumperter Tsesarevich on deck Glencoe USS Oregon

  • Member since
    March 2006
Posted by TD4438 on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 9:38 AM

If it were me,I'd hand brush everything.

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Spring Branch, TX
Posted by satch_ip on Monday, January 9, 2012 7:41 PM

Paint it Crimson and White with a Big A on the prow!  ROLL TIDE ROLL!!

Big Smile

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Monday, January 9, 2012 7:07 PM

Or, you could paint the blue by hand. I think that's how I would do it; Plan A Modified. Paint everything gray except the deck blue, then hand paint the blue verticals. I guess technically the gray is the splotch pattern.

It looks like the deck has splotches too?

Twer me I'd do one side at a time. If it gets funky, it'll always face the wall...

  • Member since
    November 2011
Camouflaging the Alababma - need advice!
Posted by mydogbullet on Monday, January 9, 2012 2:03 PM

Hello friends,  I am just embarking on Trumpeteer's 1/350 USS Alabama.  I would like to do the original shake-out cruise camouflage pattern but I really do not have a clue where to start. At first I though I would try to "assemble" the deck and superstructure (minus the detail parts) loosely with soluble glue and tack; spray everything Haze Gray and then mask that off to spray the blue.  This would allow me to get the pattern visually correct from the side views. Then I could dissasemble and spray the deck and reassemble everything.  Then add the detail parts and brush wherever needed.  Plan B is to go ahead and spray the deck and try to mask it off.  Build it as directed and mask off the camo pattern.  This seems easier but any problems with the masking and it will be pooched.  As always Iam looking forward to reading the excellent advice I always receive here!

I am photo-journaling the whole build on my tumblr blog.

http://littleplasticparts.tumblr.com

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